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Iron Butt Moderator
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm looking into getting a toy hauler, primarily for bikes.

I can get the Pit Bull restraint system for the VFR but the other 2 bikes will have to be strapped down, probably e-trax stuff. Looking at a 6x10 or 6x12 v-nose with a ramp door.

What other options would be nice, would you have done differently, what is not necessary? Please share you input.
 

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Its really a shame you aren't closer... My dad is a week or two away from putting his up for sale. It is a 6x10 with hooks for straps and a removable wheel chock. Set up for 1 but a 6x10 could easily be set up for 2 and 3 if you fit them in correctly (hard to judge as we have a work bench at the front of the trailer.

and yes the ramp door will help so much
 

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Kelley we are selling our Toy Hauler if you are interested..

If not - I would get a 6x12 over 6x10, not that much more money or weight, will tow the same and nobody ever complained about 2 extra feet.

Our 6x12 was a Haulmark V-nose, with the drop axles (tows MUCH nicer), the side door has an RV handle (I recommend this) and we customized it really well.

The pitbull system is worth every penny. We also had anchors in the floor for standard harbor freight wheel chocks, and e-track all over for strapping things in. I built a shelf in front that was really nice for "while you are there" living. We also put a fridge and microwave in ours.
 

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Iron Butt Moderator
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How much are you looking at selling it for champer?

RV handle? what is this?
 

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We are asking $8k, everything works perfect and 5 new tires! We already upgraded to a larger trailer.

RV door handle:


Normal enclosed style:


You can't open the second style from the inside.
 

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Iron Butt Moderator
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now I understand.

Can you PM me the details on your trailer, might be a little out of my range but still considering.
 

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A v-nose is usually a lot of extra money for not much more room. A basic 6x12 is a pretty good value space/dollar. I bought a Continental Cargo one, ramp door, side door with the RV latch, 6'+ interior height and electric brakes for $3200. A lot of people will say that brakes aren't necessary on a 6x12, and I guess that's true, but they sure are nice when coming down a mountain or when something crazy happens in front of you. Money well spent IMO.
The tall interior is a convenience but the height does hurt mileage. If that's important, or if your tow vehicle is on the small side consider a lower one.

On the inside E-Track and some Pingle pop chocks make life easy.
 

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Iron Butt Moderator
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I guess a big question is, is there a difference towing wise between a flat nose and a v-nose, my only big consideration for that style.

Brakes are a good option, something to consider.
 

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A v-nose is usually a lot of extra money for not much more room. A basic 6x12 is a pretty good value space/dollar. I bought a Continental Cargo one, ramp door, side door with the RV latch, 6'+ interior height and electric brakes for $3200. A lot of people will say that brakes aren't necessary on a 6x12, and I guess that's true, but they sure are nice when coming down a mountain or when something crazy happens in front of you. Money well spent IMO.
The tall interior is a convenience but the height does hurt mileage. If that's important, or if your tow vehicle is on the small side consider a lower one.

On the inside E-Track and some Pingle pop chocks make life easy.
This.
 

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I have a 6X10 without the v-nose. It will haul two street bikes and two rider's gear, including a couple of popups, no problem. You might have more room to move around in a 12 footer, but I don't really think its necessary with a typical sport bike. Longer bikes may require the extra length and you could probably use the extra length if your gear includes a generator.

My trailer has three e-trax: one down the middle and one on either side. The R side also has a Pitbull restraint system. It would be VERY difficult to fit a third street bike in there. I really think you'd need to go to an 8 footer.

I also have a side door. The side door serves as a convenient way to load your clothes and accessories. I installed a simple latch on the inside so that I can sleep inside the trailer with the door closed.

I typically load one bike using the Pitbull restraint. The second bike gets parked in my Baxley chock and tied down. I've never had a bike move with this set up.

Trailers are great, but you don't HAVE to go overboard. I only use mine 4-5 times a year, so it didn't make any sense to me to spend big $$ on it. Mine was about three grand new and has worked great so far.
 

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I guess a big question is, is there a difference towing wise between a flat nose and a v-nose, my only big consideration for that style.

Brakes are a good option, something to consider.
No, the air behind the tow vehicle is so turbulent and dirty that the v-nose makes no difference.
 

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Had a 6X12 pace. I prefer barn doors over the ramp doors. Can back the trailer up closer to the fence and still get in via the rear doors. Also can put my canopy up right in back of the trailer and go in and out if its raining without worrying about the ramp getting wet. I also dont like having the door cables to trip over. For car hauling, yes a ramp.

Vnoses are good for if you want a small built in work table and cabinets without cutting into the useable floor.

Pulled both v-nose and flat front. V-nose is a tick better mpg wise, but not anything to write home about (a taller truck with a shell or large SUV or van isnt gonna matter either way). My dakota isnt tall. Top of my old pace was 2' higher. With my trailer I've got as low as 9mpg (doing 90 coming back from Gateway didnt help.:lmao:).

Gotta get another enclosed myself. Either a 7x16 or 8X16.
 

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I have a v-nose in a 6x10 Forest River trailer. I have a total of $2700 into it including the purchase, tags, e-track, one non-removable Harbor Freight chock and one Pitbull trailer restraint. It has leaf springs as I didn't want to pay for the torsion axles (which I wish I did).

The V-nose on mine isn't the deepest, but does it help in towing? Not really, unless you get a very deep V-nose. I bought it for that little extra space up front. I can fit the tool box, cooler, gas can and what I need right there. I have the side access door (which you have to get IMO) and a ramp rear door (which again, is needed for any sort of MC hauling. With barn doors, you have to carry ramps.)

I've very happy with the trailer and felt like it was a good deal. I wouldn't go smaller than the 6x10. I looked at the 6x10 and felt it was just too big for what I needed it for. I can haul two bikes and have plenty of space. The way it's set up, I have 3 feet of space behind the non-removable chock and about 2 feet behind the pitbull TRS. Plus a ton of space in front.

With two bikes a ton of gear/clothes/baby/kids stuff and creative packing this year (I was down in the mountains for two weeks) I had no issues and still could fit more stuff. Though when I picked up Aaron, it was early and didn't have the brain power to properly pack his bicycle. But we could have. :)


I think either a 6x10 or 6x12 without brakes will tow just fine with your Ranger (it's the 4.0L, right?). The Pathfinder can do it and did fine, just not as easy as I wanted last year. But that has to do with the 4.0L VQ series engine and it's HP/TQ peak being so high in the RPM range.

I have the e-track laid out along the outsides, one down the center and then a set two feet up on the left side wall. I will put some on the right side wall, just haven't needed it just yet. I also do two it with only one bike on the side and don't worry about centering the bike. It's done this with no issues. I just pack all the gear on the other side.
 

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One more thing, height matters. Make sure you get one with atleast 6' of inside height. The short ones make packing the bike a huge pain.

Another thing, mine is steel framed, which is fine. But you can get a full aluminum frame model, which weighs a ton less and pulls easier. But again, that's a huge cost adder (almost double).
 

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Iron Butt Moderator
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That's a great wealth of information.

Yes, my truck is a 4.0 V6, 5000lb towing capacity but I know the trailer length to truck length/power is important as to not get the tailwag effect on the road at speed. I pulled a 16' once and got the tailwag above 55mph, made for a really long trip.

The VFR is 32" wide at the handles, 36" wide with the bags, the Honda Nighthawk 250 is only 24" wide and shorter than the VFR and the KLX is about 24" wide at the handles (but they are taller than both bikes) and about as long as the VFR. I should have no problem with 2 motorcycles wide, even if I slightly stagger them.

Might as well look at a 12' then as Kerry's kayak is 11'+, could easily hang it from the ceiling inside. Plus I could fit all 3 bikes if needed, staggered.

90% of the usage would be 1-2 bikes max plus gear, pop-up, camping stuff, coolers, etc. On occasion I could see putting all 3 bikes in or the VFR, 2 bicycles, 2 kayaks, coolers, pop-up etc.

My packing skills are pretty good having loaded trucks for UPS some time ago. Loading semi's is quite challenging at my height, lol.

So, 6x12, torsion axles (or drop axles), ramp door, side door (possible rv handle), pitbull for the VFR, some e-tracks, gotta be 6' high interior, spare tire, maybe electric brakes.

Keep the info coming.
 

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I have the bikes stagered and while not needed, helps a ton, as I can walk between them easily. With the Husky and the XT250, both with high wide bars, no issue. I'm sure the VFR will be fine next to any other bike. Even with the RC51 and FZ1 in there, I had no issues, but those had significantly different bar heights.

With the extra V-nose on mine, that kayak would fit just fine, even with bikes in there, though it'd have the front nose up against the ceiling and the rear down low.
 

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I have a 6x12 and i love it.

Lessons learned:
Etrack-get it everywhere
Plywood on the walls-1/4" is too thin

Things i love:
Ramp door
fits 3 bikes and enough tools/gear for all of them (one faces backward)
Big side door is a must (most have it)
Stabilizer jacks! They fold down at the rear, i can unhook the truck and load/unload/use the trailer and it doesnt move/tip
 

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I have a Thule almost identical to the white one champer posted. I sprang for the aluminum since rust kills trailer frames up here in Maine. The whole thing when empty is less than 500 lbs and super easy to roll around the yard with a drop-down front wheel. White was key to keep the heat down when at the track in summer since it was a changing room by day and sleeping room at night.

I'm a fan of swinging doors at the rear instead of a ramp door. It's easy enough to bring along a little ramp for loading and in my experience those doors are a pain in the butt. It's all personal preference, though.
 

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What size would you need for 3 sport bikes? I thought a 6x12 v-nose would be plenty. I would prefer the ramp door. Its one less thing to strap down and forget in the garage or at the track. Also its way easier when you are riding alone and you can just ride your bike in and out of the trailer. I would also say go with a light color or just plain white. Summer on a track is brutal.
 
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