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Hey guys, wondering if any of you have successfully bypassed, eliminated, etc the factory O2 Sensor and if you could point me in the right direction.

Situation: I installed a new full Yoshi exhaust, Dyno PCV, Quickshift and AutoTuner. The Dyno AutoTuner comes with a wideband O2 Sensor which is supposed to go in the factory bung or new exhaust bung based on the install directions.

Issue: After installing it all I got the F1 (C44) error code because the stock O2 Sensor is no longer connected leaving an open plug to the ECU. After going back and forth with dynojet for weeks they finally said the factory O2 sensor must also be used and that I need to weld another bung to my new exhaust because they do not sell eliminators anymore. There should be no reason why the factory O2 Sensor is still needed when AFR is now being controlled/adjusted solely by the AutoTuner/PCV. I am not convinced welding is the only solution. BTW Dynojet support has gone way downhill over the years so if any of you are looking for similar mods I would go with another brand

.All that being said do any of you know if I remove the sensor wires from the ECU completely that it will fool the ECU to think everything is fine? Or any other successes?

Really appreciate the help.
 

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Just because the fuel management is being controlled by your tuner box doesn't mean the bike's ECU isn't going to look for signals from the O2 sensor that is no longer plugged into it. If someone were to make an O2 sensor emulator you could plug into the bike, that might work as well, but no guarantees the programming in the ECU isn't smart enough to figure that out.

If it were my bike, I'd have someone weld another bung onto it. Then again, I wouldn't even bother with the tuner box myself in the first place.
 

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If it were me I would return the Dynojet stuff and send your ECU to 2WDW for a re flash. I had them flash mine to match my full M4 race exhaust and love it, I used to go down the PCV route but no more I reflash.
 

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Just in the last few days I've fitted an M4 full system to my 2020 SV and had the ECU flashed using the Woolich software. The job was done professionally using a dyno. The M4 system does have a threaded hole that the dyno tuner used for his exhaust gas sniffer to read the bikes AFR while he was tuning it, but when he was finished he plugged the hole with a threaded bung as apparently the O2 sensor is not required. A lot of the tuning software has facility to disable functions like the O2 sensor. We unplugged the sensor up under the rear of the fuel tank. That's all I know.
 

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I had a 2013 Honda CB1100 a couple of years ago and it surged on partial throttle. I tried everthing I could think of to fix the problem but nothing worked. Turns out others had the same problem on a CB1100 forum, and one of the guys bought an O2 eliminator plug on ebay, and it worked. I bought one and like magic the engine smoothed right out. If I were you that's the route I'd take.
 

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Just in the last few days I've fitted an M4 full system to my 2020 SV and had the ECU flashed using the Woolich software. The job was done professionally using a dyno. The M4 system does have a threaded hole that the dyno tuner used for his exhaust gas sniffer to read the bikes AFR while he was tuning it, but when he was finished he plugged the hole with a threaded bung as apparently the O2 sensor is not required. A lot of the tuning software has facility to disable functions like the O2 sensor. We unplugged the sensor up under the rear of the fuel tank. That's all I know.
I'm new to the SV world. Is this bike going to be a track only bike? Just wondering, because it seems like you're going to
be loosing alot of fuel mileage running in "open loop" mode all of the time. Guess it depends on how long the Dyno guy
spent mapping the entire operating range. Usually they work on the WOT / Performance Enrichment maps where the
O2 sensor input isn't even used. If this is a daily driver, I would just think you WANT the O2 sensor input for fuel
mileage and non-WOT rideability... Thanks for any insight.

Edit: I'm getting the Woolich Racing s/w this weekend, did your dyno guy download the Woolich tune with
a name similar to this; "hold on to this". Not sure exactly on the name, I'll get it this weekend. I'll have
to see if the timing retard for gears 1-3 has been eliminated in this tune or I'll have to do it....
Thanks again for any insight.

T.
 

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I'm new to the SV world. Is this bike going to be a track only bike? Just wondering, because it seems like you're going to
be loosing alot of fuel mileage running in "open loop" mode all of the time. Guess it depends on how long the Dyno guy
spent mapping the entire operating range. Usually they work on the WOT / Performance Enrichment maps where the
O2 sensor input isn't even used. If this is a daily driver, I would just think you WANT the O2 sensor input for fuel
mileage and non-WOT rideability... Thanks for any insight.

Edit: I'm getting the Woolich Racing s/w this weekend, did your dyno guy download the Woolich tune with
a name similar to this; "hold on to this". Not sure exactly on the name, I'll get it this weekend. I'll have
to see if the timing retard for gears 1-3 has been eliminated in this tune or I'll have to do it....
Thanks again for any insight.

T.
Yes it's a race bike, fuel consumption of no importance.
You buy the woolich product, it's not a free down load on the internet. You buy the package for your model and this includes the licence number/code.
Link below to all their SV650 product. It's year specific, not just model.

My Ninja 400 roads bike has also been tuned using the Woolich software, I'd happily recommend it.
 

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Yes it's a race bike, fuel consumption of no importance.
You buy the woolich product, it's not a free down load on the internet. You buy the package for your model and this includes the licence number/code.
Link below to all their SV650 product. It's year specific, not just model.

My Ninja 400 roads bike has also been tuned using the Woolich software, I'd happily recommend it.
Thanks for the info.

FWIW, I should've said I already have the Woolich s/w, just going to "dig into it" this weekend
and see what happens.... :)

T.
 

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Thanks for the info.

FWIW, I should've said I already have the Woolich s/w, just going to "dig into it" this weekend
and see what happens.... :)

T.
OK, gotcha. There was a guy on the Ninja 400 forum who tried to tune his own bike using the Woolich software and their log box but he ended up going to a dyno tuner in the end. Hopefully you get better results.
 

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OP: I ran into the same thing on my street bike. I tried an ebay eliminator, but it still tripped the ECU code.
End of the day, I welded another bung on the exhaust.

The stock ECU runs closed loop at part throttle and low RPM, and open loop above 7k rpm or 40% throttle. So you end up setting the target AFR for the open loop portions of the map and leave the closed portion of the map alone. It works fine.

I suspect Dynojet has legal issues selling an O2 eliminator, since it defeats emissions equipment.
 
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