[Maverick]

thanks for the D' i will give it a look and i c now. that the Headlight relay is a cause of this issue and should be looked into and i will give it a look c.:magpie:

 

[sv 1k]

WELL, this happened to me and I didn't think to come on to the forum to see if it happened to anyone else. :dizzy:

I have a SV1000 K3 with 59958 miles. Yay! about to break that 60K mark but anyway this happen to me on a ride and this was the result.

So, after not being able to get the bike started and getting home it didn't even take me 15 minutes before i found the problem so at first I thought that crap my ignition switch is bad so i was just going to take it out and found this to my surprise. **** hard to detach!

WTF I thought so wth i just buckled down and searched on line and came across the EasternBever.com which has a 20 minimum for purchases on line. lame! Nevertheless, 4 parts and a week later i had my part and now it was time to install this beast. I thought I counld save the current connecter pins but was unable to save any of them so i just replaced them all and probably was best anyway. After much electric tape, crimping, and (little) snipping, all is well for now.

This is what I used, now there is a crimp called the single terminal crimp from American Autowire
for $100.00 :cussing: or if you are machanically able then i say just do what i did.

Here is a better look at what happened to my connector, wow!

Literally! :dizzy::blob8:

anyway here are a few pictures of the repair. All is well now. I guess I should have guessed something was worng when a few weeks ago when i would turn on the bike I didn't hear what I think is the fuel pump ingauging and i would have to turn bike off and then on again but didn't happen often just once in a while. I also have notice that since this repair (2 days ago) that has not happened either.

Now, for those that know of my previous problem with the speedometer I will be posting about that next week. Heads up, check -

A Good Crimp

male side done!

female pins done! Um, i would recommend tapping connectors before inserting into female case. It would be easier to a line the wires a long the harness before inserting into female case or just disconnect battery (bing!)

tape wires up good from water protection and good to go.

Hope this helps anyone that has experienced this problem. Since it being a continual problem i am sure it will. Happy riding to you all and drive safe.

Crap, so everything works good but when i put the key in the "P" position the parking lights don't come on.......

I am sure that I did everything right. Here is the thing though, the Male side connector has a Red, Orange/Yellow, Green, Brown wires & the female side has Red/Black, Orange/Yellow, Red, Brown wires. I have viewed the harness digram and I am sure that I placed everything as need but you tell me...thanx.

Where do I find this on my sv1000 sk3?? I think Im having similar problems!

 

[Maverick]

Where do I find this on my sv1000 sk3?? I think Im having similar problems!

awe man sorry i didn't respond man been busy but you can get the parts from http://easternbeaver.com/

 

[Maverick]

also, check the manual - this can be found 1 under the tank 2 under the air filter cover in the front part of the frame. There should be a lin of 4 connectors look for the green one. It will take some patience getting this out.

 

[Maverick]

^^^ Those 'crimps' look inadequate (well intended)
Without the correct crimp tool, you might consider soldering them for additional conduction.

Also, as suggested earlier, you should also consider the headlight relay mod to prevent recurrence of the issue.

Dominant colour is first - what you are calling Red/Black is actually Black/Red.
Also, the connector 'gender' is defined by the terminal pin, not the connector shell.
So you have those references also backwards I believe.

I believe the Black/Red in the main harness should go to the Red on the Switch Harness.
Those should be largest gauge respectively.

The Black/Red on main is definitely the one on the input pole - if you disconnect the switch you can validate that the Red one is the equivalent on the Switch harness - simply turn the switch to Park and see which wire reads 'short' to the Brown wire (which is the parking lights) - it should be the Red wire.
If so, ensure the Black/Red goes to the Red.

D' what is the headlight relay mod? anyone can answer...

 

[Maverick]

http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=516.0

You will get improved headlight performance AND better reliability from your OEM wiring by diverting all the headlight current through relays.
The optional 'starter-headlight-cut' relay will also give you better starting voltage by reducing the total load from the battery during cranking.
(starter-headlight-cut relay not required on 05+ bikes - 'cut' is already incorporated in those models)

got it nevermind "open your eyes mav! :dizzy:

 

[Maverick]

Ok so apparently this is a big problem with the sv1k3 (2003) so I am going to order the headlight relay because it would seem that it is about to happen again. i just have a gutt feeling due to my lo beams shorting in and out. I will be checking the connector this weekend and thank OGD I have another green connector just in case its happening again ( i bought extras ) Nevertheless, I have a question. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html offers a waterproof kit

but it is only for one headlight and D' said that this is the one to get...

NEVERMIND!
Here is the waterproof dual kit. Now this one doesn't have the Coupler which is shown in the single kit above. Is this needed?

 

[Maverick]

ok well D' you was right. The headlight took a crapper and that sucks! will not effect the track though because obviously don't use the headlight, lol. Neverthless EVERYONE! here is what I have come up with.:dizzy::dizzy:

 

[Maverick]

When fixing the intial issue (green ignition switch repair) here is the way to go about it.

1. Purchase a proper Open Barrel Terminal Crimper (unlike me D', lol)
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/tools.html

2. Purchase Green connector which i would consider purchasing more then one i have/oops had four now i have two left, lol.
**4 Position .090 Waterproof Connector
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SM-HM/sm-hm.html

3. Purchase the Headlight Relay Kit
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Rocket_III/rocket_iii.html Waterproof.

4. electrical tape and then just wait...... then install..... then ride!!!!



Now, I am not sure this other alternative for the headlight relay will work but someone tell me... PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE let me know.!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SDC-Signal-Dynamics-Headlight-Module-W-Dual-H4-Harness-/230645283467?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D270837861587%26ps%3D54

 

[Rock Dodger]

Hi Mav, the ebay item you posted is just a headlight modulator and won't do the same thing that the relay kit does. The green connector would still be an issue if you used the ebay kit.

The relay kit is the answer for the issue you have.

 

[41439]

I also had this problem recently. I first felt a sign of trouble getting onto a highway and accelerating when there was a jolt from the engine-not a miss fire but a real cutting out feeling, only once though. Then there was the intermittent no start at home. No electrical power sometimes for a few hours then all of a sudden it would start like nothing had happened. I had checked everything that I could then turned here and found this thread-great job everyone! I found the green connector and it was slightly melted like some of the previous pics but not nearly as bad. I have only 10K on the bike and its just one year old now. If the problem is indeed related to the headlight current then I will add the relay kit in the spring. I think I can attribute my problem to always riding with my high beams on just for a little added visibility during the day. Cheers

 

[Maverick]

Hi Mav, the ebay item you posted is just a headlight modulator and won't do the same thing that the relay kit does. The green connector would still be an issue if you used the ebay kit.

The relay kit is the answer for the issue you have.

yeah after doing some more research on this i figured that out and glad too because we all know how eBay can be....

 

[Maverick]

I also had this problem recently. I first felt a sign of trouble getting onto a highway and accelerating when there was a jolt from the engine-not a miss fire but a real cutting out feeling, only once though. Then there was the intermittent no start at home. No electrical power sometimes for a few hours then all of a sudden it would start like nothing had happened. I had checked everything that I could then turned here and found this thread-great job everyone! I found the green connector and it was slightly melted like some of the previous pics but not nearly as bad. I have only 10K on the bike and its just one year old now. If the problem is indeed related to the headlight current then I will add the relay kit in the spring. I think I can attribute my problem to always riding with my high beams on just for a little added visibility during the day. Cheers

Yes this could be but even with out the high beams the problem is inevitable. The kit will definitely solve this because if you just replace the green connector then the current will find another weak point and just melt that connector which is what happened to me ;( so make sure you do both repairs.

 

[imdying]

A Good Crimp

Yeah... nahhhhh.

Have a gander at the OEM crimps, you'll see the two folded over bits are actually formed down and into each other, in, well, a crimp! Eastern Beaver sells teh crimpers, they're a doddle to work with.


D, would teh Sumitomo SL-DL (up to 2mm conductor) be ok to replace the green connector with?

 

[Maverick]

Yeah... nahhhhh.

Have a gander at the OEM crimps, you'll see the two folded over bits are actually formed down and into each other, in, well, a crimp! Eastern Beaver sells teh crimpers, they're a doddle to work with.


D, would teh Sumitomo SL-DL (up to 2mm conductor) be ok to replace the green connector with?

so your saying the eastern Beaver crimpers are good?:naughty:

 

[imdying]

Yeah, they're good enough, Japanese made and not flimsy. I would recommend them to others.

I use a Hozan P-706 and a HERO FRH-07. I don't do enough to justify the Hero BL-255 for big arse battery terminals (at $170USD it's a bit salty when I have other tools I need more), but I would really like one.

Decent connectors definitely make your projects lookl more complete, plus they don't let water in... how many times have you come across a fault on a vehicles wiring, only to find the source and it's some grotty splice job somebody has done that has gone manky and corroded.

 

[TeeRiver]

... I don't do enough to justify the Hero BL-255 for big arse battery terminals (at $170USD it's a bit salty when I have other tools I need more), but I would really like one.

Same here. I can't justify the price for one, but just the look of that well done crimp on the Eastern Beaver site makes me want to buy one anyway, haha.

imdying, we haven't seen D' on SVR lately, but I know what he would say to your Sumitomo 2mm question: "Install headlight relays to get the current out of that connector, then either connector will suffice."

If just replacing the connector though, I think your idea of using beefier contacts is excellent. Definitely a step in the right direction.

 

[imdying]

To be honest, I have another application in mind, but it has a similar current draw, so the answer would give me what I need, plus it might give SVRiders another option Having said that, a four pin DL possibly wouldn't go through the headstock hole? I think I have some spare, I'd have to try it out.

AFAIK, it should be fine, 2mm wire is a pretty serious piece of cable, and one assumes the pins can take the current rated for that sort of cable?

 

[TeeRiver]

... it might give SVRiders another option Having said that, a four pin DL possibly wouldn't go through the headstock hole? I think I have some spare, I'd have to try it out.

:thumbsup: Please let us know it if fits.

AFAIK, it should be fine, 2mm wire is a pretty serious piece of cable, and one assumes the pins can take the current rated for that sort of cable?

I would agree. The Sumitomo connectors are high quality and I would trust their spec as to wire size. It would be hard to believe they would size the contacts to be lighter (current wise) than the wire they attach to.

2mm is 12awg, Eastern Beaver web site says the contacts only fit up to 14awg. I don't know why the discrepancy but even 14awg will handle 32 amps open air. If the application is less than that, and I would derate that a good 25% to 24 amps max for reliability, it should be OK.

Suzuki should have gone with those larger contacts for the Green Connector.

 

[kivyee]

yeah after doing some more research on this i figured that out and glad too because we all know how eBay can be....

You can however use those parts to build your own plug and play relay kit, if you so desire.