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Discussion Starter #1
So I bought an HID Bi-Xenon Kit for my 2006 SV650s. I have the Aztec8 dual H4 headlight kit that has two H4 60/55 watt bulbs.

I bought an HID kit with the following specifications on each of the ballast (there are two ballasts for this kit):

Voltage In: 8-22 volts
Votage normal: 13.2V
I norm: 3.2A
I max: 20A
Power Output: 35W
V star: 23kv max

I wired it all up and got both of the bulbs to turn on with the both the high and low beam. But then sometimes when I would turn it on only one would come on, none of them would come on and sometimes both would come on. I checked all of the connections with a multimeter and there was current through the system.

I contacted the person I bought it from and they said that each ballast needs 8 Volts and 20A to fire up the bulbs.

They suggested some type of relay to boost the power from the battery.

Can anyone help me out. Do I need a relay to boost the power from the battery or do I need a more powerful battery.

Any help would be great.
Thanks.
 

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I know nothing about HID headlights, and even less about electronics... but 20 amps seems like ALOT of juice to me.

Is that what most HID kits use?
 

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You need to run larger gauge wire from the ballasts to the battery. They draw a lot of power when they're cold and first turn on. You could also install a cap for the extra bit of juice when they first turn on.
 

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Relay kit wouldn't hurt. I installed a set of 5000K McCulloch hids with my 350z projectors I retrofitted. Had to order the relay kit due to the lights flickering. Cheap investment before hacking up the pretty wiring they come with.
 

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You need to run larger gauge wire from the ballasts to the battery. They draw a lot of power when they're cold and first turn on. You could also install a cap for the extra bit of juice when they first turn on.
+1 i was reading up on awebsite and it said if youhad issues with the lights staying on to use larger gauge power wire.
 

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You need to run larger gauge wire from the ballasts to the battery. They draw a lot of power when they're cold and first turn on. You could also install a cap for the extra bit of juice when they first turn on.
+1. I had this same issue with my BMW HID kit. I simply ran a 8 guage wire from battery <+> to the CU for the HID's.
 

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Lifer
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I think the Control Unit also works as a relay... I could be wrong.
The ones I installed on my last car didn't have a relay and had to have one run otherwise the gauges in the car would flicker. (30amp startup, 7.5amps on). Those ballasts use a lot of juice.
 

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With my friends GSXR he bypassed the factory light switch and mounted his own. This way the light does not turn on until he turns it on, saving the battery and making sure there is full out put during ignition.
 

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Lifer
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With my friends GSXR he bypassed the factory light switch and mounted his own. This way the light does not turn on until he turns it on, saving the battery and making sure there is full out put during ignition.
I've thought about this before. How much juice are you really saving from an HID though? The halogens I can understand but HIDs use so much less juice.
 

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Depends on the ballasts you use. There are 35watt ballasts and 55 watt ballasts.
 

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With my friends GSXR he bypassed the factory light switch and mounted his own. This way the light does not turn on until he turns it on, saving the battery and making sure there is full out put during ignition.
I wired my HID's on the high beam switch, so it only comes on when I flip the high beam switch.
 

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My BMW HID kit needed to be wired strait to the battery with a larger guage power wire, but now I have an aftermarket HID kit (35watt) and seems to power up fine through the headlamps high power.

With the BMW HID kit I had it was wired up through the headlamp plug at first and would have issues turning on and powering both sides. After installing the larger guage wire to the battery the HID's would turn on immediately with no problems.

I have never run a relay inline with the HID kit and they have worked fine (4 years), this was with the BMW HID kit. If a relay is needed then my new HID kit would include it or have a note to install a relay. Also, if I have my new 35W HID kit going through the headlamp plug then it would be using the SV headlamp relay.
 

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Was your set-up BI-xenon or just lowbeams only?

On the S and Ns, when you flip the high beam switch the power switches from low to high.

So, if you have a Bixenon setup, wiring the ballasts to the low beam will turn off the lights when the highbeams are turned on.

On my bike, the low beam wires are not used at all. The ballasts are powered by 12awg wire off of an on with ignition relay. Also, to help with initial draw when the ballasts are turned on, you could wire in a 4700uF 36v capacitor in parallel with each ballast's 12v source.

What makes things more interesting is the starter. I'm not sure what year they started killing the headlights when you hit the starter, but on my '03, the draw from the starter causes headlight flicker and sometimes kills one or both of the lamps until I installed yet another relay to kill the headlights when the starter button is depressed.
 

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Bi-Xenon just means that there is a servo motor lifting a metal flap to let more/less light through the projector...or in some aftermarket kits ther IS a second light source on the bulb. But most high end vehicals use the metal flap/shield. I removed my "Bi-Xenon" from the projectors.

There is two different types of Bi-Xenon:

http://wikicars.org/en/Bi-xenon_Headlights
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I got this kit from ebay and it works great on my truck but I had the issues of it not turning on both lights, sometimes both lights and sometimes just one light came on with my motorcycle.

Is it true if I go to a larger gauge wire this will fix the problem?

My battery just died also and I am wondering if I can get a more powerful battery that will also help.

Please let me know.

I went to Pep Boys and Walmart and they had the economy batteries but they involved you actually putting in the battery acid, kind of sketchy to me.

Does the YUSA YXT12-BS make you put in the battery acid as well?

Thanks.
 

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20A seems like alot of current, especially through the factory wiring. A relay would allow you to pull it directly from the battery which should resolve your turn on issue. I'm betting the ballasts are fighting for current when turning on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It does have a realy already though.....
 
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