[StephenAndrew]

Hi all,
Well I just installed these: http://www.aztec8.com/catalog/i40.html. Install was easy and everything went fine until I turn the key and...nothing. Low beams didn't work and high beams didn't work. I had used some twist-on wire connectors that have silicone inside and a seal on the end for outdoor/marine use (all I could find around my house at the time). So after I cursed a bit after discovering the headlights didn't work I saw on the package of the wire connectors "For use on copper wires only", and the wires on the Aztecs are aluminum I think (they're silver, so definitely not copper). So I went out and got some wire crimp connectors like I probably should have done in the first place, re-connect the hi-beam, lo-beam, and ground wires, turn the key and...nothing. So I check the fuses and find a blown low beam fuse and a blown high beam fuse. So I have to make another trip to the hardware store, but I have a couple questions. Do you think the silicone connectors compared to crimp-connectors had anything to do with it or am I just drawing too much power (essentially twice as much as the stock headlight, after all). I've read about a solution where you bypass the headlight switch using a relay but I really, really don't like doing electrical work, I'll take mechanical work over electrical any day. Does anyone know how to do this or how hard it is? And lastly, the fuses that blew are both 10A. I'm aprehensive about putting 15A fuses in there to see if it works for fear of damaging down-stream components, but I'd rather do this if it works and has no ill effects than wiring a headlight-switch-bypass-relay deal. So that's my story, just asking for a little advice from you dual headlight havers/electrical whizzes. On the plus side though, they look really nice! Thanks for any input.
-Steve

 

[StephenAndrew]

Also, I forgot to mention, this is what it says on the Aztec8 website:

Easy to install, no wires to add, simply remove one stock headlight plug and install the Dual headlight kits pigtail plug, hide your stock wiring with loom if needed, attach fork brackets to forks. Headlights can be removed in minutes for track days, also the stock headlight assembly can easily be reinstalled. Your bike's stock switch still controls high and low beams, both headlights work on high and low beam, along with high beam indicators.

The bold bits lead me to believe that a relay setup isn't necessary. What did I do wrong? Ahh! ???

 

[sailinghome2ct]

Might not be much help, but I installed those lights on my bike with no ill effects. Stock wiring etc... Didn't do anything special and they work great. good luck...

 

[Griffin]

I bought these also - but I'm a noob, so I had them installed by a dealership. Kinda expensive, but they work fine. Sorry I can't help. FYI, replacement bulbs cost $17 - ouch. That said, it is a pretty mean look and the brights are REALLY bright - love it.

 

[MrWilson]

Here's a couple useful tidbits of information for you.
1. The connectors have nothing to do with your problem. The wire is copper. It looks "silver" because it has been "tinned" to make it corrosion resistant.
2. The 10A fuse is too small. Watts/Volts = Amps In your case you have 120W (60 per bulb) / 12 volts = 10 Amps. That is the current in the wires when the lights are on. You can't run right at the limit of the fuse. Your fuse needs to be a 12 to 15 amp fuse. Use the smallest that will work. Remember: The fuse protects the WIRES from burning. It does not protect the bulbs.
3. RE-Check your wiring. If you've got em crossed somewhere, any size fuse you try is gonna blow.

Good Luck

 

[StephenAndrew]

Here's a couple useful tidbits of information for you.
1. The connectors have nothing to do with your problem. The wire is copper. It looks "silver" because it has been "tinned" to make it corrosion resistant.
2. The 10A fuse is too small. Watts/Volts = Amps In your case you have 120W (60 per bulb) / 12 volts = 10 Amps. That is the current in the wires when the lights are on. You can't run right at the limit of the fuse. Your fuse needs to be a 12 to 15 amp fuse. Use the smallest that will work. Remember: The fuse protects the WIRES from burning. It does not protect the bulbs.
3. RE-Check your wiring. If you've got em crossed somewhere, any size fuse you try is gonna blow.

Good Luck

Thanks for the tips, I'm no electrician but wouldn't putting in a higher rating fuse pose a threat to the wires? I wouldn't want them to get damaged and have to shell out big bucks to fix it. I'll try somethig tonight, I'll let you all know how it goes.