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dose anyone know where there is a guide online to how to remove the top and lower tripple trees?
 

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The lower is easy. I think there is 4 bolts holding it in place. The upper, I'm not sure...
 

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The lower is easy. I think there is 4 bolts holding it in place. The upper, I'm not sure...
I'm guessing you've never taken a triple off?? ;D

It's not a hard job, but you do have to remove a fair amount of stuff to get the lower triple off, and you need a way to support the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm guessing you've never taken a triple off?? ;D

It's not a hard job, but you do have to remove a fair amount of stuff to get the lower triple off, and you need a way to support the bike.

what tools are needed to get this done. Is a toqure wrench needed?
 

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dose anyone know where there is a guide online to how to remove the top and lower tripple trees?
There is a direct download link for the shop manual somewhere on this forum. If you can't find it, send me your email in a pm and I can send you the chassis portion of the manual. If you are familiar with torrents you can also get the entire manual from Here. It has all the instructions along with the required tools.
 

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Will a large adjustable wrench work for the top steerer nut (the one under the top triple)? I've used one to take off the top triple, but the maintenance manual keeps talking about some special Suzuki tool to get the other nut off. If the adjustable won't work, any idea what socket size is required?

I'd like to have all the tools ready before I start the job, rather than taking a dozen trips to Home Depot or Sears while the bike sits in pieces...
 

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A crescent wrench will work, but if you plan to torque it down to spec. when you re-assemble, you'll need the socket anyways. Crescent wrenches are notorious for chewing things up, too. Sorry, I don't recall the size off-hand, but I think I got the socket at AutoZone or Sears.

I didn't use the "Suzuki special tool" for the steering stem nut underneath the triple. They provide a torque spec. for it, but it's just a starting point. It really needs to be adjusted so that the steering is weighted correctly (200-500g for my 1st gen, as measured from the handgrip, IIRC).

You'll laugh (or cringe) when I tell you how I adjusted mine: channel-lock pliers. I used a rag to protect the nut and adjusted the pliers so they gripped firmly without slipping. Worked like a charm.
 

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I'm pretty okay with adjusting steering tension (from doing headset swaps on bicycles), just didn't know what the tool size would be for the steerer nut. And I have no problems with using the adjustable. I'm pretty careful with it.
 

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consider a front stand, or else you'll be jerry-rigging something to suspend the front of the bike while the forks are off.

You'll need a 12MM allen-key or socket drive for the front axle, I'm assuming the wheel is coming off while you're working.
 

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Not sure what the original poster has planned, but unfortunately you can't remove the bottom triple with a front stand.
 

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Jack stands on the frame sliders... So, after putting on the rear stand, then jacking up the front enough to get the jack stands under the sliders, then take the rear stand off again... Hopefully the front wheel will be off the ground.
 

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Jack stands on the frame sliders... So, after putting on the rear stand, then jacking up the front enough to get the jack stands under the sliders, then take the rear stand off again... Hopefully the front wheel will be off the ground.

I don't like jackstands under the sliders--they flex too much for my liking.

I flip the foot pegs and put stands under them. They're much more rigid.

Then a lift under the engine so you have a good three point stand.
 

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I can't get my stands in that close--the base gets in the way. I guess I'm also squeamish about supporting the bike by something that is supposed to protect it in a crash.

Then again, I have a rear stand, so I never use the footpegs on my bike anymore.
 
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