Left front intake and left front exhaust were out of spec (tight) at 15K.
The other 6 were all at the very bottom (tight) end of the spec. I elected
to adjust the two that were out of spec and leave the others alone.
Based on many other folks experiences, I expected all the valves to be
in spec at 15K. I was tempted to skip the check since the bike has
been running great, but was glad I didn't.
The CCT was the biggest pain. I ground down a long screwdriver
to fit the slot and was able to retract the arm rather than removing
the CCT.
PS
If you're using the Clymer manual, figure 66 on page 80 is incorrect.
The cam positions marked 'A' should be marked 'B' and vice versa.
That caused me about 15 minutes of confusion. The similar figure in
the factory shop manual is correct.
Also, there is no need to remove the fuel tank to get the rear valve cover
off as the Clymer manual states.
The other 6 were all at the very bottom (tight) end of the spec. I elected
to adjust the two that were out of spec and leave the others alone.
Based on many other folks experiences, I expected all the valves to be
in spec at 15K. I was tempted to skip the check since the bike has
been running great, but was glad I didn't.
The CCT was the biggest pain. I ground down a long screwdriver
to fit the slot and was able to retract the arm rather than removing
the CCT.
PS
If you're using the Clymer manual, figure 66 on page 80 is incorrect.
The cam positions marked 'A' should be marked 'B' and vice versa.
That caused me about 15 minutes of confusion. The similar figure in
the factory shop manual is correct.
Also, there is no need to remove the fuel tank to get the rear valve cover
off as the Clymer manual states.