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I seem to be having a recurring problem with my charging system.I have had aztec8 dual 5 3/4 headlights for 6 to 8 months now. I seem to be having a recurring problem with my charging system. With the head lights on and my brake light on my voltage drops below 13 volts and if I sit in traffic for and extended period of time the voltage will drop to 12.4 to 12.5 volts. With the headlights unplugged I have 14.3 to 14.4 volts at idle, it will drop to 13.9 volts with the brake light on. With the bike running at 4k I have about 13.4 to 13.6 volts. I have replaced the voltage regulator twice now as well as the battery (running a new CBR1000 R/R now) .

So does anybody make a alternator/generator with a higher output?

also, could these headlights be putting to much of a draw on my charging system?
 

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I believe it was D'Ecosse (I have no idea if that's spelled right) jumped up his voltage simply by sizing up his wiring. Hopefully he will chime and and can give you some advice.
 

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They sell race altenators ---> lower output. He want's a higher output.
"BDK Race Engineering Designs High Output Race Alternators to Suit State-of -the-Art Race Bikes "

They say high output. Would have to call them to find out how high.
 

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Personally would not touch Electrosport products with a 10' pole - YMMV

First off, you have installed the CBR R/R so that is a positive step - much more efficient R/R.

The more current you draw, the higher the voltage drop will be across the small gauge OEM wiring. That in turn causes the wires to heat more, further raising their resistance & higher volt drop. Taxes the charging system unneccessarily.
Upgrading your supply wiring from the output of the R/R directly to the battery will have a significant positive effect. You will have higher charging voltage at the battery under all conditions.

Cut the connector plug off the output end of the R/R and connect the +ve wire/wires (depending on model of R/R you are using) directly to the battery via 10 ga wire with a 30 fuse in-line. Do similarly for the ground return (no fuse required in this line of course) Note that in the bottom example below there are two red output wires connecting into a single red wire and fuse pigtail; there are two black wires splicing into a single black wire. Both have ring terminals crimped directly to the ends that will fit on the battery terminals.
Tip - leave your wires long initially and make your final step cutting to length when new harness is in position, then crimp your terminal lugs.

Your regulator should look something like this when completed:
(Regardless of which model is used - just did similar install on the SV using an FH008 from CBR which is the top picture)

This is an FH008 part-way through the process ready to install in the SV - as mentioned earlier it's easier to feed these wires from the R/R location back to the battery then install the fuse pigtail and terminal lugs as the final step:



This is a completed assembly ready to install:



Finally tape up the original main-harness connector plug that previously connected to the R/R.
This is important as you will still have battery volts on this connector. you want to ensure it stays waterproof.

.
 

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"S" models have two 55/65W H4 bulbs and you still have 45 w or more to spare.

the dl650 generator does put out some extra power. it could be possible to swap them but I don't know of anyone that has.
 
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