One big advantage of rev matching, for me, is that my wife no longer clashes her helmet against mine when I downshift and let go the clutch.

I was thinking of throttle hand in general.no need to be smooth w the throttle, you just blip. the size of the blip almost doesnt matter since you only need a couple thousand rpm
One smooth, quick, motion BLIPI was thinking of throttle hand in general.
I experimented a bit yesterday, and found that when I'm full on the brakes, I can blip without upsetting the bike.
When I'm not braking as hard as possible, I jerk the brake when blipping, and It's definitely not something I'd like while trail braking at lean.
"less jerky" the reason I dont blip in the twisties and the reason many good riders do the same on the track.One smooth, quick, motion BLIP
makes it less jerky.
Blipping is somewhat like those who rely on engine braking to slow down, amateurish.there are a couple decreasing radius spots where i need to grab downshifts. i cant even imagine doing it without blipping.
Here I am! 😅Blipping is somewhat like those who rely on engine braking to slow down, amateurish.
That assumes that engine braking causes engine damage in some way. Does it? I didn't think it did.But I also heard it said before to use the brakes more because brake pads are cheap and engine repair is not cheap.
This video could help shedding some light on engine braking.That assumes that engine braking causes engine damage in some way. Does it? I didn't think it did.
Same here, so much of it why not.Here I am! 😅
I usually rely more on engine braking than on front brake to slow down when just touring aroun.
autoblippers are the way. but i am a poor and feel like selling mine is the better choice.Blipping is somewhat like those who rely on engine braking to slow down, amateurish.
Synchronizers, found in automotive transmissions, are there to allow smooth shifting since the gears are usually not constant-mesh like MC transmissions are. They have no effect on rev-matching, smoothness, traction issues, etc. Only for getting one gear to play nice with the next.I’m with @VFR4Lee . I’m never in any particular hurry, so I usually do the fan/feather thing of the clutch. That’s what it, and synchros, are for. If I’m doing a particularly big transition, especially given the SV’s engine braking, I’ll do a ‘blip’ (usually bring the revs up and hold to where I think they’ll be in the new gear). Would probably be the same if I were really riding/driving ‘in anger’, but that never really happens.
Yep. Folks that don't rev-match also likely think first gear is what one uses to roll-start a bike. Those of us that value smoothness get it. That tiny twitch of the hand that weighs a few ounces could never upset a bike to the extent that dumping the clutch and forcing the engine to play catch-up by either skidding the tire or forcing it to spin the motor up, a function that we have gasoline to perform much more efficiently. And yes, brake replacement is usually a bit less pricey than clutch repair, but anything you can do to reduce upset to the chassis is good. As we all know, other things being equal, it is suspension that wins races. (Sorry, covered more than one thought.)One smooth, quick, motion BLIP
makes it less jerky.
This kinda sounds like a bad infomercial. Not sure I get the rev matcher's know how to push start smoothness thing, but the dumping the clutch and skidding the the tire is a must!Yep. Folks that don't rev-match also likely think first gear is what one uses to roll-start a bike. Those of us that value smoothness get it. That tiny twitch of the hand that weighs a few ounces could never upset a bike to the extent that dumping the clutch and forcing the engine to play catch-up by either skidding the tire or forcing it to spin the motor up, a function that we have gasoline to perform much more....