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my 03 naked has about 5800 miles now. I dont think coolant has been touched.

So do a LOT of city riding in traffic and when i get home, i leave the bike on as i walk in to open up the garage. Normally by the time i get to the bike it shows about 200*, then i ride into the garage. While riding i never see it much in the 190+.

Today ive seen it hit 210 before the fans kicked on and then it got to 215 before the coolant temp when down to 210 and the fans turned off.

Reading the FSM it says 198* is when the thermoswitch should open/closes, i assume that will trigger the fans to go on.


I'm thinking of doing a coolant drain and fill now. Just dont know what coolant go with. And do bikes use a 50/50 ratio? I know the 50/50 ratio in cars is to handle subzero weather. My bike in the winter sits in the garage, which is almost always 10-15* warmer to say the least. Chicago only sees -10 F once in a while.
 

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Doesnt sound like you have an issue to me. city riding will show those temps due to lack of airflow. Do your drain and refill, though. My rule of thumb is every two years, unless you put a huge amount of miles on it.

Sent from my PC36100 using Motorcycle.com App
 

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Your bike sounds fine. The only thing is your fans seem to be turning on at the wrong temperature.

My fan usually turns on at 210 and brings it down below 200 when it turns off. It's nothing to really worry abuot though.

You can use any 50/50 coolant. I used to use the cheapest coolant I could find at Advance Auto Parts until i had to put in Engine Ice for a track day.
 

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You can use any 50/50 coolant. I used to use the cheapest coolant I could find at Advance Auto Parts until i had to put in Engine Ice for a track day.
+1. dont drive yourself crazy over what coolant to buy. the prestone premix from advanced auto is perfectly fine, unless you hit the track.
 

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You really DO need to watch what coolant you put in the bike. Silicates are a NO-NO as they can (I think) hurt the waterpump seals. Regardless, you've got to read the bottle and make sure you aren't adding them to the coolant.


http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...lanol-Anti-Freeze.aspx?WT.ac=RichAutoComplete is some really good stuff if you haven't got a favorite brand. Notice that they use deionized water in the mix! This helps scrub the insides and keep it clean vs normal distilled water. The 1K used one bottle so the 650 should be similar or slightly less....best to check the manual.

Oh....the thermostat controls the flow of coolant through the radiator. It doesn't open all the way instantly, and if you ride in really cold weather it should run right where the 'stat just begins to open. Mine is just a little over 180, and then fully open around 195. Fans run off a separate switch which will be way over the 'stat fully open temperature.
 

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the problem with silicates in coolant is they can cause premature wear to the plastic impeller blades on the water pump. an old expierienced auto tech told me that can take about 75000 miles, so i figured if a water pump fails after that many miles, it's not so bad. probably leak b/4 that anyway.
still, if you're worried, get the coolant they sell at the suzuki dealer. it's a bit more expensive, but it only has to be done every 2 years. if you shop around the auto part stores, you should be able to find some with no silicates, i think Peak brand, not sure but it should say somewhere on the bottle.
 

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idk where your location is, but i live in florida and its been pretty hot and humid here the past few weeks. whenever i'm in traffic on the way home from work my temp can easily reach 220 before it starts to back down again. once i get going it cools down in a hurry.

im pretty sure that when the SV gets to hot the FI/oil light will start to blink to get your attention. hope that helps.
 

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+1, I've hit 218-220 a few times when the temps are in the 90's. Should be fine as is.

Doesn't hurt to change the coolant, but I don't think theres an issue, just preventative.
 

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Just go get a jug of 50/50 extended life coolant. No need for the special stuff "just for motorcycles". As long as it's able to be used in aluminum radiators (which just about all coolant is now a days) you'll be fine.
 

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The bike will run a little cooler in traffic if you run a gear lower to keep the revs up. Increased flow through the oil cooler doesn't make an instant difference in water temperature, but the engine is much happier!

There's a lot of info here about coolant.
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155588&highlight=

Just go get a jug of 50/50 extended life coolant. No need for the special stuff "just for motorcycles". As long as it's able to be used in aluminum radiators (which just about all coolant is now a days) you'll be fine.
Yeah, you'll be good. With 33/66 water/propylene glycol, you'll be better off (at least down to zero degrees).
Better cooling and non-toxic!
 

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That's exactly normal, newer model SVs actually have even higher fan temps.

Early 2nd Gens (fans turn on at 210)
Later 2nd Gens (fans turn on at 220)
 

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I know how you feel...if I let mine just sit and idle, it kicks on around 200, then goes off less than a minute later...then it goes up to 205-210 and kicks on and goes back off when it gets down to 203...and it just keeps going up and up. The fan never stays on till the temp goes below 200..just kicks off like it's on a timer instead of a temp sensor. It's really aggravating. I even bought a new temp sensor and it does the same thing. In my mind, it should stay on till the temp drops below 200..instead it turns off after it drops a couple degrees no matter how hot it gets. I've let it get up to 235 just to see if it would change it's cycle, but it didn't.
 

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Dude, your fine. In stop and go Phoenix traffic, in summer, the bike rarely gets under 200...but also, rarely gets to about 215ish when the fan kicks on...that's the normal operating temperature. As long as you have good oil and coolant, just go ride, quit staring at the gages ;)
 

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I know how you feel...if I let mine just sit and idle, it kicks on around 200, then goes off less than a minute later...then it goes up to 205-210 and kicks on and goes back off when it gets down to 203...and it just keeps going up and up. The fan never stays on till the temp goes below 200..just kicks off like it's on a timer instead of a temp sensor. It's really aggravating. I even bought a new temp sensor and it does the same thing. In my mind, it should stay on till the temp drops below 200..instead it turns off after it drops a couple degrees no matter how hot it gets. I've let it get up to 235 just to see if it would change it's cycle, but it didn't.
The fan is doing what is supposed to do, it runs long enough to cool the coolant in the radiator and after it runs the coolant temp will continue to drop. I have only had mine comeon once and that was running for 30 minutes in my old garage, usually late summer and stoplights i'll see 200 tops.
 

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I know how you feel...if I let mine just sit and idle, it kicks on around 200, then goes off less than a minute later...then it goes up to 205-210 and kicks on and goes back off when it gets down to 203...and it just keeps going up and up. The fan never stays on till the temp goes below 200..just kicks off like it's on a timer instead of a temp sensor. It's really aggravating. I even bought a new temp sensor and it does the same thing. In my mind, it should stay on till the temp drops below 200..instead it turns off after it drops a couple degrees no matter how hot it gets. I've let it get up to 235 just to see if it would change it's cycle, but it didn't.
Something isn't right there. The fan should consistently start and stop at the same temperature. If something is wrong with the fans ability to pull air through the rad, it will not be able to cool it down to it's shut-off temp. You have replaced the fan switch....so it should be working OK. And, the fact that it shuts off means it is cooling it down to that level. Have you checked the gauge sending unit? It might be going wanky.:) Shooting the rad with a temperature gun would answer the question.
 

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The fan is doing what is supposed to do, it runs long enough to cool the coolant in the radiator and after it runs the coolant temp will continue to drop. I have only had mine comeon once and that was running for 30 minutes in my old garage, usually late summer and stoplights i'll see 200 tops.
But the temp never goes down enough...it just keeps cooling by 2 and goes up by 4 (example)...so if I leave it long enough it just ends up higher and higher.

Something isn't right there. The fan should consistently start and stop at the same temperature. If something is wrong with the fans ability to pull air through the rad, it will not be able to cool it down to it's shut-off temp. You have replaced the fan switch....so it should be working OK. And, the fact that it shuts off means it is cooling it down to that level. Have you checked the gauge sending unit? It might be going wanky.:) Shooting the rad with a temperature gun would answer the question.
Yeah, I'll have to get one. Some of the fins are bent in my rad, but that still doesn't explain why the fan goes off before a respectable level. I'll continue to check it out. Thanks.
 
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