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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My SV650's Leo Vinci Aluminum slip on looks like shite from the sea-air and its a little corroded and crusty looking. I decided to strip it down and paint it black, but then I figured I might as well chop it a bit too.

Heres my DIY - DO WORK!

All work was done on my patio with a dremmel and a cordless drill - not to tuff at all.... I dont have the luxury of a garage and the shop is closed today.. **** it, I'll figure this out!

Find the length you want the pipe, and mark it - i used a fine point sharpie.
My pipe I wanted to be 10" so thats where I marked it.

Carefully go around the can marking at the proper length, when done, use tape to circle the can at your marks, this will help guide the cut.

Next I drilled out the rivets to get the endcap and slipon cap off.

Rivets removed, band removed.

There is a silicone bead around the can, so I cut away as much as possible.

Take a punch or small screwdriver and punch the rivets into the can.

Time to make the cut - go slow and be careful. use eye protection.

Cut is complete thru the aluminum.
Use a razer blade to cut the packing away and get it free from the baffle.

Once you are thru the packing, remove the end cap.

Take the pipe end cap off, this is the piece I am tossing,
unless one of you here want a 6" can..?

I pulled the slipon cap out and the baffle is welded to this so becareful not to bend or dislodge it from the slipon cap.

Next is to remove the packign from the part I want to keep.
I pushed my hand between the can and the wrap and it popped right out.

Next I cut the steel-wool wrapping around the baffle core to length.

Mark the baffle core to cut to length. be careful, measure twice, cut once.
I used a fiber-reinforced cutting wheel for my dremmel tool,
it cut the can and the baffle core using only 3 discs.

Baffle core is cut to length.

A quick test fit of the caps & baffle core and can to see if it all fits up right.
Looks pretty ****in good to me mate!

Next is marking the can for the rivet holes on the cut side.
I put the endcap in and made a line as to center,
then i put the band on and made the cross lines to show center point of the hole.

33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Drill the holes for the rivets to hold on the end-caps

Chamfer and file all the burrs from the holes, and also the cut end of the can.

Test fit to make sure the rivets are the right size.

Test fit to make sure that ALL the rivets will go in snugly.

When I bought the pipe it came with a rivet-on badge, so why not put it on too?

Im using VHT Very High Temperature header coating in Satin Black.

After sanding (which I didnt take pix of cuz i was covered in aluminum dust...
Apply even coats of paint and wait between coats for each coat to dry - do not rush this part.
People always tend to rush the painting and it will come out like shite 99% of the time if so.

Between coats make a sandwich.

IMPORTANT- if makign a sandwich have salt and vinegar chips and a Dr. Pepper.
While eating sandwich watch South Park or read the new issue of Streetfighter Mag.

Apply more coats, waiting patiently between coats.

Last Coat - all done and baked.
Note - You cant just bake this in the over in the house. It will stink the house up and your wife will yell.
I took a large toaster oven outside and baked there per the directions on the back of the spray can.

Put the baffle steel wool back on.
NOTE - you can do this a few different ways. I found it easier to put the steel wool on,
then wrap the steel wool with the packing. trying to stuff the baffle thru the packing in the can
may prove to be very difficult as it mashes the packing up on the inside of the can.

First try, put the packing in first, then do it differently.
There are no other pics of the packing process as my hands were very greasy and dirty..

I've never worked with Rivets before. Its not hard. However I could not find stainless steel rivets
anywhere today. i conceded to buying aluminum and they seem to hold fine.
My worry is over time they can change color from the heat and/or become loose from the vibrations
causing wear on them. Either way, if those things happen its a long way off.

Put the end cap on the can and slide if over the baffle on the inside so its all snug
Rivet the strap back on, being careful to pre-fit the rivets so they all go in and
none of it is ****-eyed.

Put the slip-on cap into place and then strap and rivet just as the end-cap was done.

33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rivet on the sweet Leo Vinci badge and I'm all done - **** yeah!

See the length of the can now, as I wanted it 10" short. I will re-bake the can now that
everything is in place, and it shoulr work just fine.

i scratched the can with a rivet nail so i had to touch that part of the paint up.
once the paint is totally cured, it is a ceramic paint that will be hard as ****.
It should be pretty resistant to chips and scratches.

Now I have to put my SV's engine back together and get it on the road so i can put the
new stubby slipon to the test.

Hope you liked it - thanks!


33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sweet deal :D what kind of dremel do you own? Know this isn't related... Wanna get a nice one though hah. Made that look easy.

cheers! i own a crappy one from harbor freight, i think its a Detriot brand? i dunno, its on its last leg as i abuse the poor thing unmercifully. ive def. gotten my 30 bux out of it..

33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
very nice write-up. i've been contemplating doing this to mine as well but i have a carbon fiber yoshi rs3, and i'm not sure if i can cut it up with the carbon fiber.
im sure you can. ive seen it done on the 'fighter forums a lot. just use duct tape and put yoru line ON the tape and cut. a BANDSAW makes short work of that cut, btu i dont have one... the tape helps keep the fiber from fraying all to pieces. but the ones ive seen the only issue is cleaning up the end to look perty when you put the endcap back on...
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