DIY Steering stem nut Tool

11088 Views 23 Replies 11 Participants Last post by Nubby, Aug 27, 2010

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Discussion Starter · Feb 13, 2009

Ok...

Like many of you, I'm unwilling to pay the outrageous price that Suzuki wants for the Steering stem nut socket ($169 Cdn), so I decided to try and make my own.

I've seen some people use a grinder on a 1-1/4" deep socket, which was my original intention, however I couldn't find a deep socket for little $.

I then also saw Motophoria here on SVRIDER use some galvanized steel plumbing parts with some steel rod.

I managed to get my hands on a steering stem nut that I could use as a template...

So here's my take on the idea for less than $8US in parts...

I went into the plumbing section of my local hardware store, and grabbed:

- 1-1/4" threaded 4" galvanized steel pipe
- 1-1/4" to 1" galvanized steel reducer
- 1" galvanized steel threaded cap

Using a marker, I marked out the areas that had to be cut out using a locknut as a template. I also used a visual aid to show how much depth I needed to grind away.

I then grabbed some proper eyewear...

I placed the pipe in a vise, and using a grinder I ground away...

I used a file to clean up the edges and properly fit the nut

Once I knew I was as close as I'd get, I screwed the 3 pieces together using some steel epoxy. It's still drying, so I have yet to use it. I'm pretty sure it'll work just fine...

Oh yeah, the top cap can be used with an open end wrench, or a socket (I think 21mm or 22mm)

It's not as pretty as the Suzuki tool, but it will get the job done without mutilating the soft-as-butter aluminum locknut by using a hammer and a screwdriver.

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neuone

· #14 · Feb 22, 2009

Looks like a pretty good job, I'll have to check back to see how it works.

I'm also about to do a fork swap on my '03 SV and I also didn't want to buy a $70 socket.

I took my calipers down to Ace Hardware and measured a few sockets and found that a 1 1/4" twelve point deep socket with a 1/2" drive is just about the perfect size. It cost $8.79 US before tax. So there is another option for people who don't want to mess with epoxying pipe fittings.

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neuone

· #16 · Feb 22, 2009

I actually chose the 12 because it has less 'meat.'

A 1 1/4" 6 point socket is about 32 mm across, the flat parts of the castle nut are about 36 mm apart, so you would have to remove more material that way. The 12 point has more than enough material to work with.

When I'm done cutting the socket down I'll post some pictures, but this way you don't have to grind off as much material

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neuone

· #17 · Mar 4, 2009

Ok, so here's what I did:
First I took a dremel to the socket to remove the largest amount of material from between the teeth. I actually used 2 reinforced cutting disks with 2 high speed cutting disks sandwiched between them.

Then I used one of the nuts to mark the socket where the teeth needed to be

Next I used a flat file to remove the rest of the material. I feel like I can be more accurate with the file than with the dremel.

Here I am sizing up the teeth

And here is the finished product

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neuone

· #21 · Mar 7, 2009

When using the socket I modified I noticed that it was really easy for the socket to turn sideways while applying torque, but it worked just fine. The steel used in for the socket is very hard so if you cut it down by had be prepared to spend an hour or so filing it down.

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