[jpramondon]

As a racer, I don't like having something useless on my handle bars. As you'd problably already guessed, I'm talking about shaving the left hand commands for track purposes.
It's not really a matter of weight saving, but more about having a clean prep' bike that would then look like a proper track bike ...

When I thought about removing these hand commands, first thing I did is a search on the forum to find a couple of earlier threads about this. There're 2 key points that were really worth reading :
- it's possible to remove the hands commands but one would have to find a solution to emule the clutch switch so the bike could start ...
- bypassing the said switch may modify the injection map (such as the rev limiter) to some default map. And this is something I don't want to happen on my track bike ...

So I decided yesterday that would make my own cluch switch. Here's what I did today.

I started from a spare part I did receive a couple of weeks ago from a guy who sold me his engine plus a couple of other bits. This extra left switches came with the box ...



to be continued ...

 

[VARIABLE9]

Picture doesnt work. Sounds promising though.

 

[jpramondon]

Yeah ... It's a bit worthless without pics though ...
I'm struggling with Picasa links ... any hint ?

 

[jpramondon]

I finally managed to add pictures ... sorry for that ...

 

[cirsory]

to be continued??? well all i dont see how it would effect the rev limiter. all i did to my 1st gen was put a jump into the harness after pulling of the connector you show

 

[jpramondon]

So were was at ? ... oh yeah.

I began to open it by removing both external screws. Then I removed the screws that held the circuits in there.



I cut the clip and removed the signal and horn circuits from the assembly.



Then it was cutting time ! I carefully cut the rubber that was holding the wires together.



to be continued ...

 

[jpramondon]

to be continued??? well all i dont see how it would effect the rev limiter. all i did to my 1st gen was put a jump into the harness after pulling of the connector you show

I must admit I was a bit doubtful when I first read that too ... but then some serious guy mentioned again about it and I started to beleive ...

J

 

[jpramondon]

hum hum ...

Beware when cutting with sharp cutter. Depending on the side you're cutting the harness, you may find the end is a bit harder. That's because a wire is preventing you from cutting any further. The guilty wire is one of the horn's harness. The only solution is to cut gently and pause from time to time to check if you're not hurting the wires.



At this point, you're a bit further than halfway cutting.



Do the same cutting operation from the other side of the harness (from the plug).



Your harness is almost completely naked now.



to be continued ...

 

[jpramondon]

... continued

When the harness is completly naked, it makes it way easier to locate the clutch switch wires. Note the colors and follow the routing to the plug.



Now for the plug. Use a very small screwdriver to unplug the useless wires. If you've already fitted a TRE to your bike, this should be something easy, because you may have already change such a plug to a new one. A little tip for the others : use your third arm and hand ... :nana:
When trying to remove a wire from the plug, it makes it a bit easier if you push the wire from the back before trying to lift the tiny plastic holder with your screwdriver.



When you're done with the previous step, you should be in this kind of messy situation ... nothing's really holding the wires together now ...



With only 2 wires remaining on the plug, what's left on it is what you need to make the clutch switch keep on working. This is the minimal harness you'll need.



to be continued ...

 

[jpramondon]

... continued

This is what's left of the plug. This picture may be helpful to those who haven't figure out which wires to keep in the plug.
Front :



Back :



Guess what ? What's been removed (most of the harness, that is) can still be put together. I did that so I don't lose too many bits when storing.



To be continued ...

 

[jpramondon]

... Continued

Time for a little testing. Locate where the plug plugs ... andaaaaa ... unplug ...



Fit the new skinny harness and test.



There's still some work to do on this. I know I should rub the wires together (and work and the routing too ;D), but you get the idea.

Your turn now :nana:

J

 

[VARIABLE9]

Nice and informative.

 

[jpramondon]

Nice and informative.

Thanks ! I wanted to show how dead easy that was.

J

 

[sci1ence]

I did the same mod a while back when I put an MSR easy pull clutch kit on my SV. I just bought a little switch from RadioShack and put it on my instrument panel and linked it to the two wires off the clutch perch. You'd just click it to tell the bike the clutch was engaged to start it up. It was also kinda cool to have this big red button on the panel. Everyone thought I was running nitrous or something.

On the down side you could start the bike in gear (not that I've done that LOL). I also ran a GIpro gear indicator with ATRE and had no problem what so ever with the mod.

Hope that's kinda the same idea of what your doing.

 

[jpramondon]

I did the same mod a while back when I put an MSR easy pull clutch kit on my SV. I just bought a little switch from RadioShack and put it on my instrument panel and linked it to the two wires off the clutch perch. You'd just click it to tell the bike the clutch was engaged to start it up. It was also kinda cool to have this big red button on the panel. Everyone thought I was running nitrous or something.

On the down side you could start the bike in gear (not that I've done that LOL). I also ran a GIpro gear indicator with ATRE and had no problem what so ever with the mod.

Hope that's kinda the same idea of what your doing.

Yes, that's the kind of "what's this extra button" effect I like too
My attempt at creating a clutch switch is quite the same idea as yours. In fact I must admit I've been inspired by your post a while back about this mod.
The only diffrence I see is that instead of putting an extra button, I kept the clutch lever and its switch, so I can keep on using the bike as usual.

J

 

[dc-norm]

Thanks for the write up. Saves me having to figure out which wire it is as I was going to do this next weekend

 

[tcl]

My clutch wires are just shorted together. The rev limiter seems to work fine. What else is it supposed to effect?

 

[jpramondon]

Thanks for the write up. Saves me having to figure out which wire it is as I was going to do this next weekend

You're welcome. I knew that picture with the cable colors would make someone happy. Or is it the one with the stripped plug ?

J

 

[jpramondon]

My clutch wires are just shorted together. The rev limiter seems to work fine. What else is it supposed to effect?

Some guy in the forum said he'd lost almost 500 rounds ... and the bit of power that comes with it I guess.
I should really try to find that other post where someone says the map goes to default whenever the clutch is pulled. Without it, I understand you beeing sceptical ... as I've been.

J

 

[sci1ence]

You running a PCIIIusb?

I had a GiPro Gear indicator with a ATRE. So my bike always thought it was in sixth gear. Can't say I noticed any effect after I ran the clutch mod, but I think the ATRE may have helped.