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Discussion Starter #1
So, I've spent hours (literally) trying to get my electrical distribution block to work. NO CIGAR! Here's the link to the Canyon Chasers diagram I'm going off of:

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/relay/relay-diagram-final.jpg

I tried exactly that way and it didn't work. So here's how I've got it wired:
And the measurements I've taken are as follows:
A) 0V measured between pins 86 & 87 when ignition is OFF (as expected)
B) 12V measured between pins 86 & 87 when ignition is ON (as expected)
C) 0V measured between (+) & (-) terminals of dist. block when ignition is OFF (as expected)
D) 12V measured between (+) & (-) terminals of dist. block when ignition is ON (as expected)
E) 12V measured between the wires connecting to the GPS when ignition is ON (as expected)

Sooo, with all the above confirmed and reconfirmed measurements I would expect the GPS to work when the ignition is ON. Oh-so-unfortunately, it does not work. I will bow down to the person/people that help me figure this one out!!

 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Terminal 87 is the switch power.
According to that link you provided. It looks like 87 is distributed power and that 85 is switch power. I'll go to the garage right now and try both ways real quick.

EDIT: I tried both of these (they both resulted in 0V at the distribution terminals with ignition ON (and OFF)):
87 - distribution (+)
85 - switch power
86 - ground
30 - battery (+)
----------------------
87 - switch power
85 - distribution (+)
86 - ground
30 - battery (+)

IMPORTANT: I'd like to express that I've tried every which way to get power to my accessories. There are a couple configurations that seem to give me 12V at the wire connections for the accessory, BUT nothing has resulted in an accessory working.

Is possible I'm getting 12V but not enough Amperage? Could I somehow be losing amps somewhere? Should I go back and make sure I have a 100% solid connection to the spliced license plate wire?
 

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Sorry my wording was off. Terminal 85 is correct as the switched power source. When I say "Terminal 87 is the switch power" I meant it as when 85 gets powered the relay activates 87 to connect to the battery power.

So basically 87 and 30 gets bridged when 85 gets 12V. Or 87 and 30 gets unbridged when 85 gets 0V. I'm bad at trying to explain this... :BangHead:
 

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Are you using a multimeter to measure the voltage? I would check what the relay is getting at each of the terminals when the ignition is off/on.

Edit, so with the config below you should get the following:

Ignition off - 87 0v, 85 0v, 30 12v
Ignition on - 87 12v, 85 12v, 30 12v

87 - distribution (+)
85 - switch power
86 - ground
30 - battery (+)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm wondering if I have a "bad" relay somehow. It just doesn't make sense that I would be getting Volts AT my accessory connection point, but accessory does not work!!! grrr, so frustrating.
 

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I'm wondering if I have a "bad" relay somehow. It just doesn't make sense that I would be getting Volts AT my accessory connection point, but accessory does not work!!! grrr, so frustrating.
a bad relay is a possibility, but if its a bad relay you wouldn't be getting power on your distribution block.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Are you using a multimeter to measure the voltage? I would check what the relay is getting at each of the terminals when the ignition is off/on.

Edit, so with the config below you should get the following:

Ignition off - 87 0v, 85 0v, 30 12v
Ignition on - 87 12v, 85 12v, 30 12v

87 - distribution (+)
85 - switch power
86 - ground
30 - battery (+)
I've done this already, but didn't write it down. Give me 5 minutes and I'll run out to the garage again and write down what I get. Just a sec.
 

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I'm sorry, can you please clarify. What do you mean by "jumpers"? The positive and negative terminals of the distribution block?


The jumpers are what feeds the flow of electricity across the terminals. I was brain dead when I first set my block up, forgot a jumper on the ground side. Therefore the circuit was unable to be closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Are you using a multimeter to measure the voltage? I would check what the relay is getting at each of the terminals when the ignition is off/on.

Edit, so with the config below you should get the following:

Ignition off - 87 0v, 85 0v, 30 12v
Ignition on - 87 12v, 85 12v, 30 12v

87 - distribution (+)
85 - switch power
86 - ground
30 - battery (+)
I got the following:

Ignition OFF - 87 0V, 85 0V, 30 12.2V
Ignition ON - 87 0V, 85 11.5V, 30 11.72V

As you can see, its a problem that I'm not getting any voltage at pin 87 with this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The jumpers are what feeds the flow of electricity across the terminals. I was brain dead when I first set my block up, forgot a jumper on the ground side. Therefore the circuit was unable to be closed.
Yeah yeah, sorry I didn't realize that's what you meant. YES, I do have these jumpers on correctly. My block setup is basically identical to that picture.
 

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Just did a double take on your 1st post. You have your wiring screwed up. Switch your connections on the relay, wire from 86 to 87 and wire from 87 to 86.

tk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just did a double take on your 1st post. You have your wiring screwed up. Switch your connections on the relay, wire from 86 to 87 and wire from 87 to 86.

tk
As shown a couple posts above...I get 0V at pin 87 when I do this.
 

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That's because you blew the inline fuse from battery to 30. Replace it and try again.

The way it is wired in post #1 is wrong. The only reason why you get power that way, is because it's coming off the Lic Light.

The Lic light is not fused. shorting it will pop your main fuse.

tk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That's because you blew the inline fuse from battery to 30. Replace it and try again.

The way it is wired in post #1 is wrong. The only reason why you get power that way, is because it's coming off the Lic Light.

The Lic light is not fused. shorting it will pop your main fuse.

tk
Is it possible to see if the fuse is blown by looking at it? I'll post a pic of mine in a second.

I'm going on a business trip for awhile and will have to try a new fuse when I get back.
 

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If you're getting 12v at 30 then the fuse should be ok. If the fuse is blown you wouldn't get power to 30. But yeah if the fuse is blow you can tell by looking at it. There's like a piece of metal connecting the two prongs, blown fuses will have the two sides divided.

Here are some examples:
 
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