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Discussion Starter #1
Well it was a few.. thousand.. miles late, but I got around to it.

Ive done hundreds of them in school before but first one on my own personal ride.

Those cam chain tensioners where a *****, so i opted to not remove them entirely and just work around it.

Pretty fun and super easy overall..





This is I, Torquein the cam caps down.



Even got the old man to come get his hands dirty


My way around the tensioners..
 

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Well done. This is one of the few types of maintenance I have yet to try. Still need to go a few thousand miles before it's time. Looks like a nice machine--every time I see someone who has done the valve check/adjustment I get a little braver.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its really not that hard at all man. just take your time, keep things organized. Have a telescoping magnet and use it for the removal and installation of shims and buckets, helps take the "dropping a shim down a small hole" picture outta your mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
right on.

EVERY valve was tight. intakes where in spec by .01 while exhausts were outta spec by over a tenth of a millimeter.
 

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Good job. Anything can be done as long as you take your time and pay attention to the details. Everything on my bike was well within spec. last year.
 

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I'm trying to work up the bravery to do that already(6000 miles) when you said work around cam chain tensioners, i would have liked to see that. With the caps removed off the top of the cams i guess you can tilt the cams up just enough to get the shims out,even the ones close to the chain,asked and answered,
 

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Where can i get instructions on how to do this properly. I've searched here, but no luck yet. i don't have a service manual. is there an online service manual that is free? my 2007 naked is going to roll over 15,000 this weekend on the ride to road atlanta for AMA superbikes. i have never checked or adjusted the valves on a bike. i am an auto mechanic, so i'm not worried about doing it. i just want bike specific instructions to follow. is the 07 going to be any different than other 2gens. they switched to a dual spark plug head that year. don't know if the specs are any different for the redesigned head.
 

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Where can i get instructions on how to do this properly. I've searched here, but no luck yet. i don't have a service manual. is there an online service manual that is free? my 2007 naked is going to roll over 15,000 this weekend on the ride to road atlanta for AMA superbikes. i have never checked or adjusted the valves on a bike. i am an auto mechanic, so i'm not worried about doing it. i just want bike specific instructions to follow. is the 07 going to be any different than other 2gens. they switched to a dual spark plug head that year. don't know if the specs are any different for the redesigned head.
hope this helps....

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_valves/
 

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I'm WAY overdue for my valve adjustment and WAY too broke to pay a shop to do it. 7k over and I'm ashamed about it, I'm paranoid every time I start her up I'm causing some damage. ZDeWitt maybe you can help me sometime. I live at the Villas so no garage but I have plenty of tools. I want to do it myself but I'm just finishing Clinic 2 and have no idea when we'll get to valve adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Your in mmi? right on, what shift?

I did mine at my folks place down in Apache Junction. Its about a 55 mile ride there but if you wanna do it, im down to help. I've an entire shim kit left minus the 8 I used.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
PS Clinic 5 is were you first do valve adjustments..

lol kinda backward, you learn to cut valve seats before you learn to adjust them.
 

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right on.

EVERY valve was tight. intakes where in spec by .01 while exhausts were outta spec by over a tenth of a millimeter.

so which is it, every valve was tight ?

or all the exausts were tight and the intakes weren't ?

within spec is within spec, even if on the tight side of spec,

why is it that peole think you have to be perfectly centered within tolerance..... you don't,
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm trying to work up the bravery to do that already(6000 miles) when you said work around cam chain tensioners, i would have liked to see that. With the caps removed off the top of the cams i guess you can tilt the cams up just enough to get the shims out,even the ones close to the chain,asked and answered,
I dd show one picture of this, the 1/4 socket wrench with the appropriate socket. Fits nicely under the cross member in the frame. I then "secured" it using the handles of a pair of needle nose pliers.

im on my phone, sorry for the triple post, I would edited, but it won't let me
 

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Discussion Starter #17
so which is it, every valve was tight ?

or all the exausts were tight and the intakes weren't ?

within spec is within spec, even if on the tight side of spec,

why is it that peole think you have to be perfectly centered within tolerance..... you don't,
Well, I've got everything apart, shims in my hand... why not bump them back into the looser end of the range? If they were all tight, then im going to assume that for the most part, they will continue to do so. Therefor, another adjustment isn't needed in 2000 miles.

I just got out of Hontech and am in BMW right now. If you can get a valve closer to the loose side of the spec but you don't "because in spec is in spec," then your already down to a 75% for that project. Im assuming that means that its important and that's how they, the manufactors of these bikes, want them done.
 

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If they were all tight, then im going to assume that for the most part, they will continue to do so. Therefor, another adjustment isn't needed in 2000 miles.

.
sure it'll get tighter, but Suzuki's tolerances are for a 15k interval, why would you need adjustment in another 2000 miles ?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If I left the intakes at the .127 they were at, they will need to be readjusted much sooner than the .18x something that I set them too. Its just makes sense to me.

the 15K interval is for propperly adjusted valves, not just any valve that is "in spec" by a few hundredths or thousands of a millimeter, IMO, everyone does things their own way.
 

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I am thinking I know the answer, but since there is a pro-trainee to ask...

Is there any way to "work around" the CCTs on the 2ndGen SV650? They have the ratcheting tensioner rod and I suspect you have GOT to remove them (which I have done). Still, figured I'd ask, because that rear one is a total chore.
 
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