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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased aftermarket turn signals for my 99' SV because my left signal was burnt out. When I was wiring up the new signals in the front, I shorted the left signal by touching the positive and neutral crimps together. I was too excited to see if they worked before I taped them. Now, none of my signals work, including the signals on the dash. I checked the signal fuse and it's not blown. I don't believe it's the relay. I have no idea what it could be. It would have been nice if the 15A fuse would've just went. Would have saved me a headache for sure! Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are these new turn signals LED, by chance? You may have wired them backwards.
They are new. However, they aren’t wired backwards. They all worked except the front left signal. I replaced both of them and had them working until I shorted them. What’s confusing to me is that the signal on the dash does not either now nor the rear flashers. Could my switch have gone?
 

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Ok, so to be clear, between your two posts, you say that you originally had a non-working left front turn signal. During replacement of the left front turn signal, you accidentally touched the two leads together. Now none of your turn signals work, meaning neither the left turn signals, nor the right turn signals. Is this correct?

Did you replace all 4 turn signals on the bike, or just the two on the left, or just the left front? When you accidentally shorted the two pin leads together, was the turn signal switch activated or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so to be clear, between your two posts, you say that you originally had a non-working left front turn signal. During replacement of the left front turn signal, you accidentally touched the two leads together. Now none of your turn signals work, meaning neither the left turn signals, nor the right turn signals. Is this correct?

Did you replace all 4 turn signals on the bike, or just the two on the left, or just the left front? When you accidentally shorted the two pin leads together, was the turn signal switch activated or not?
Okay, I replaced the signals in the front only. The two signals in the rear are aftermarket but were replaced by the previous owner. When the leads touched, the signal switch was activated. Up until I shorted them, everything was working. It was after I slid heat shrink over the left signal leads without taping one of them and then hit the signal switch that they shorted. All 4 signals and the dash signals are not working.
 

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I still think you have a blown fuse. Maybe try swapping fuses around?

If you for sure don't have a blown fuse it's time to grab a test light or multimeter and start tracing power throughout the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I still think you have a blown fuse. Maybe try swapping fuses around?

If you for sure don't have a blown fuse it's time to grab a test light or multimeter and start tracing power throughout the circuit.
I’ve pulled all the fuses I know of, including the two 30A fuses. Are their any others?
 

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Not as far as I know, but my experience is mostly within the realm of the 2gen.

So if the fuses are good then you'll have to start tracing power around the bike. Easiest with a test light.
 

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Sv 650 bikes, imho, have a high tendency to blow turn signals. i mustve gone through 10 sets on 4 svs 1st and 2nd gen.

MAKE SURE THE LIGHTS WORK BEFORE INSTALLING. Ive bought several sets that are DOA and just plain show up broken.

check for connections and frankenstein wiring from previous owners.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Previous to the short, they all worked just fine. I ended up ordering a flasher relay off Amazon to see if that works. I also got a test light if that fails.
 

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Sv 650 bikes, imho, have a high tendency to blow turn signals. i mustve gone through 10 sets on 4 svs 1st and 2nd gen.

MAKE SURE THE LIGHTS WORK BEFORE INSTALLING. Ive bought several sets that are DOA and just plain show up broken.

check for connections and frankenstein wiring from previous owners.

good luck
Theoretically, even if the new turn signals were bad, the rears would still flash. They'd probably flash extra fast, but they should still work. For the entire system to stop working at once is odd. There are few parts common to both sides of the signals. The fuse is one, the switch is another, and the flasher relay is pretty much the last part.

I only keep harping on the fuse part because of the info OP has so far provided. It's the most reasonable explanation.

Sometimes fuses will crack and can look solid but be bad, that's why I suggested swapping fuses around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Theoretically, even if the new turn signals were bad, the rears would still flash. They'd probably flash extra fast, but they should still work. For the entire system to stop working at once is odd. There are few parts common to both sides of the signals. The fuse is one, the switch is another, and the flasher relay is pretty much the last part.

I only keep harping on the fuse part because of the info OP has so far provided. It's the most reasonable explanation.

Sometimes fuses will crack and can look solid but be bad, that's why I suggested swapping fuses around.
I replaced the relay. It fixed it! All signals work now. Thanks for the help along the way!
 

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I replaced the relay. It fixed it! All signals work now. Thanks for the help along the way!
Good work! Thank you for coming back with the answer.

I'm curious, did you plug and pray, or did you use the test light to track it down? Was the bad turn signal relay original, or was it electronic?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good work! Thank you for coming back with the answer.

I'm curious, did you plug and pray, or did you use the test light to track it down? Was the bad turn signal relay original, or was it electronic?
The test light was my plan B if the relay didn’t work; so I never used it. It was an oem 7pin relay. The one next to the fuse box.
 
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