[SV_WantABe]

My 2002 is 100% stock and just 6k miles. 1500 miles and 5 years old when purchased. It has always needed choke for a few minutes after starting and has always been near impossible to start first time in spring. I'm unsure if it backfired, but it does now when warming up...I think more than it used to. I've never replaced fuel filter nor air filter which looks like new. All original.
Modifying muffler could make it too lean. Mine is stock.

 

[SV_WantABe]

Yours sounds better than mine when cold.

 

[Geo Smith]

Yours sounds better than mine when cold.

Boy, it sounds like you have a sweet bike. When I bought this one I was hoping to take it to pristine factory showroom condition. Then I found out how expensive OEM parts are. Now my goal is to just get it running in pristine showroom stock condition. The SV650 is an incredible bike because of it's incredible motor. That's what I want to experience every evening.

 

[SV_WantABe]

Mine runs fine once warmed up. I had stalling problems at stop sign and red lights. Finally got the idle adjustment to turn to speed up the idle a couple years ago.

 

[Straticus]

Just thought I'd add. Whilst you are wafting for parts etc do something that a lot of bikers never do put can pay big dividends. Disconnect the Battery and remove and service the Starter motor e.g give it a good clean and fettle.

This is an old thread but the principles are the same,

CX500 GL500 650 Global • View topic - Starter motor servicing

Over time the Starters get tired and neglected but a crappy Starter motor puts more strain on the Battery when activated.



PS
I haven't done mine for a couple of years so tomorrow I will as I am also replacing the original Starter relay

 

[Geo Smith]

Just thought I'd add. Whilst you are wafting for parts etc do something that a lot of bikers never do put can pay big dividends. Disconnect the Battery and remove and service the Starter motor e.g give it a good clean and fettle.

This is an old thread but the principles are the same,

CX500 GL500 650 Global • View topic - Starter motor servicing

Over time the Starters get tired and neglected but a crappy Starter motor puts more strain on the Battery when activated.



PS
I haven't done mine for a couple of years so tomorrow I will as I am also replacing the original Starter relay

Good idea! That is note something I even considered. Yes, the parts are taking more time these days, so I have some spare time. Also, I have a MOFSET RR that I will be installing, I think upon your advise in a post I read (or on your CX500 site). I also ordered the NGK caps.

 

[Straticus]

Good idea! That is note something I even considered. Yes, the parts are taking more time these days, so I have some spare time. Also, I have a MOFSET RR that I will be installing, I think upon your advise in a post I read (or on your CX500 site). I also ordered the NGK caps.

It's worth investing in a decent JIS(Japanese Industry Standard) screwdriver/s,

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

These are the correct type for Japanese Motorcycles.


When you do the R/R you will have to remove the rear cowling. There are two JIS screws out-of-sight under the rear of the bike one each side near the Rear light unit. These have to be removed before the cowling can come off. I wire brushed mine and soaked them with rust release(WD40 or GT85 works) and left them overnight just to be safe.

I use a bit of old carpet and lie down on it and with a lamp shining up then I can see and remove them.


When you have it off you should pull apart all electrical block connectors and check for spade and female corrosion. I remove this with a small electrical type screwdriver with some 500 grit paper wrapped around it. Then blast the debris away with Carb/Brake cleaner and let it evaporate. Then treat with Isopropanol Switch cleaner,

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Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Electronics Cleaner circuit boards controls switches electric panels (1) 10oz at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

and my favourite super fluid ACF50,

acf-50.co.uk

This domain may be for sale!

www.acf-50.co.uk

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

Seems expensive but isn't as it lasts for ages.

Also under the tank do the same to all electrical block connectors especially the Big green one near the Headstock. This is a known corrosion problem causer!

 

[Geo Smith]

It's worth investing in a decent JIS(Japanese Industry Standard) screwdriver/s,

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

These are the correct type for Japanese Motorcycles.


When you do the R/R you will have to remove the rear cowling. There are two JIS screws out-of-sight under the rear of the bike one each side near the Rear light unit. These have to be removed before the cowling can come off. I wire brushed mine and soaked them with rust release(WD40 or GT85 works) and left them overnight just to be safe.

I use a bit of old carpet and lie down on it and with a lamp shining up then I can see and remove them.


When you have it off you should pull apart all electrical block connectors and check for spade and female corrosion. I remove this with a small electrical type screwdriver with some 500 grit paper wrapped around it. Then blast the debris away with Carb/Brake cleaner and let it evaporate. Then treat with Isopropanol Switch cleaner,

Electronics Cleaner circuit boards controls switches electric panels (1) 10oz 39101046006 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Electronics Cleaner circuit boards controls switches electric panels (1) 10oz at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

and my favourite super fluid ACF50,

acf-50.co.uk

This domain may be for sale!

www.acf-50.co.uk

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

Seems expensive but isn't as it lasts for ages.

Also under the tank do the same to all electrical block connectors especially the Big green one near the Headstock. This is a known corrosion problem causer!

Damn Straticus, lots of good advice! I've read a lot of your posts about acf50, so I ordered some. I also have a set of JIS drivers on my Prime wishlist. I'm hoping Geo-ette notices it there. I've found lots of head-stripped screws on the carbs. A 1/4" cordless impact driver and Dremel tool helped immensely when I was rebuilding. I'm trying to replace most of them with Allen screws.

 

[RecoilRob]

Carbs with enrichment circuits rather than a simple choke plate can be frustrating to diagnose when/if they are malfunctioning. Being that we're on the verge of summer (come ON 'Global Warming'!) if you'd bump up your pilot jets to 17's you really shouldn't need the 'choke' enrichment to start even when cold if the idle mixture screws are adjusted a tad on the rich side. If I were you...for 'diagnostic purposes only' I'd block the enrichment circuits temporarily just to make SURE they're not adding unwanted fuel and see how it gets on. If the choke cable doesn't move smoothly and easily then it for sure might not be opening properly and more importantly it might not be closing completely.

Starting the engine the throttle needs to be closed to apply vacuum to the idle circuits or fuel will not be drawn. When flooded if you open the throttle fully it'll clear out any excess fuel and should start. The electronic ignition systems can make a very high voltage spark but lack the ability to deliver much current so the spark isn't 'hot' so to speak. At the Ford dealership I worked at back in the '90's the management wanted all the cars on the lot moved every other day....to make passers by think that we were selling lots of cars....at least that's what they believed would happen. In reality we mechanics spent a bunch of time pulling fouled plugs and cleaning them with a torch just to get them started. Repeated cold starts without giving time to warm up fouled them after just a few starts in a row without letting them warm up.

Dyna makes BIG coils for the SV1K and I've been happy with the set that's been on my bike for the last 25,000 miles or so. They throw a good spark with a bunch more current than the puny little stock coils can muster. Even with the big coils if the engine doesn't start within a couple cranks it's going to foul the plugs and need WOT to get it to start. Too much fuel can very quickly short out the spark if the plugs get wet...so please try to block the enrichment circuits and see if things don't improve. If it then starts and runs well you'll know for sure that the new choke cables will fix you up.

 

[Straticus]

Damn Straticus, lots of good advice! I've read a lot of your posts about acf50, so I ordered some. I also have a set of JIS drivers on my Prime wishlist. I'm hoping Geo-ette notices it there. I've found lots of head-stripped screws on the carbs. A 1/4" cordless impact driver and Dremel tool helped immensely when I was rebuilding. I'm trying to replace most of them with Allen screws.

I had to drill out a couple of the JIS screws that hold the float bowl covers using some, "Left Hand" drills. This unfortunately ruined the hole threads so I used some Metric m3 small bolts with nuts on. This made sure the covers sealed. I glue the float bowl seals from the service kit in place with a few dabs of RTV and then wipe any excess off inside the float bowl. This prevents the seal moving and getting damaged on refit.

 

[Geo Smith]

Carbs with enrichment circuits rather than a simple choke plate can be frustrating to diagnose when/if they are malfunctioning. Being that we're on the verge of summer (come ON 'Global Warming'!) if you'd bump up your pilot jets to 17's you really shouldn't need the 'choke' enrichment to start even when cold if the idle mixture screws are adjusted a tad on the rich side. If I were you...for 'diagnostic purposes only' I'd block the enrichment circuits temporarily just to make SURE they're not adding unwanted fuel and see how it gets on. If the choke cable doesn't move smoothly and easily then it for sure might not be opening properly and more importantly it might not be closing completely.

Starting the engine the throttle needs to be closed to apply vacuum to the idle circuits or fuel will not be drawn. When flooded if you open the throttle fully it'll clear out any excess fuel and should start. The electronic ignition systems can make a very high voltage spark but lack the ability to deliver much current so the spark isn't 'hot' so to speak. At the Ford dealership I worked at back in the '90's the management wanted all the cars on the lot moved every other day....to make passers by think that we were selling lots of cars....at least that's what they believed would happen. In reality we mechanics spent a bunch of time pulling fouled plugs and cleaning them with a torch just to get them started. Repeated cold starts without giving time to warm up fouled them after just a few starts in a row without letting them warm up.

Dyna makes BIG coils for the SV1K and I've been happy with the set that's been on my bike for the last 25,000 miles or so. They throw a good spark with a bunch more current than the puny little stock coils can muster. Even with the big coils if the engine doesn't start within a couple cranks it's going to foul the plugs and need WOT to get it to start. Too much fuel can very quickly short out the spark if the plugs get wet...so please try to block the enrichment circuits and see if things don't improve. If it then starts and runs well you'll know for sure that the new choke cables will fix you up.

This is good information Rob. I will certainly look into those coils. When you suggest blocking off the enrichment circuits do you mean simply removing the cable and reinstalling the plungers? How do I block this off? And, yes, I need to bump up the stock pilots to 17s.

 

[Geo Smith]

Just got an email from MotoSport. The choke cable and plungers are on backorder. Damn. I'll check other suppliers.

 

[nicks-sv]

i ordered a front intake manifold tuesday from motorsport. i just heard it's on back order. Maybe i should of went thru partzilla, but they usually take a couple days to ship it out the door. I'd be interested if your able to get it sooner than later. I'm going to try rtv sealant to get it going if it's not totally blown out. I ran it up to a hundred in forth gear and as it was winding down i blipped the throttle downshifting and it backfired

 

[Geo Smith]

i ordered a front intake manifold tuesday from motorsport. i just heard it's on back order. Maybe i should of went thru partzilla, but they usually take a couple days to ship it out the door. I'd be interested if your able to get it sooner than later. I'm going to try rtv sealant to get it going if it's not totally blown out. I ran it up to a hundred in forth gear and as it was winding down i blipped the throttle downshifting and it backfired

I just reordered from Babbitts Suzuli Part House. Supposed to get here between 5/5 and 5/12. We'll see.

 

[Geo Smith]

Just for grins I drained the tank yesterday and replaced the gas with non-ethanol gas and about 4 ounces of Seafoam. Started (on choke), warmed up, release choke, rode up and down the street with it bogging and popping. I was hoping to run the new gas through the carbs and to blow it out. Within 2 miles the bike slowly died. Later in the evening I started it up, on choke, and the revs went to about 3,500, held there for about 30 seconds, then the motor abruptly died. Would not start on choke or off.

 

[Geo Smith]

so please try to block the enrichment circuits and see if things don't improve

So how do I do this?

 

[Straticus]

Just for grins I drained the tank yesterday and replaced the gas with non-ethanol gas and about 4 ounces of Seafoam. Started (on choke), warmed up, release choke, rode up and down the street with it bogging and popping. I was hoping to run the new gas through the carbs and to blow it out. Within 2 miles the bike slowly died. Later in the evening I started it up, on choke, and the revs went to about 3,500, held there for about 30 seconds, then the motor abruptly died. Would not start on choke or off.

Check to see if the Fuel filler cap venting is OK. If the filler cap breather system becomes blocked it will prevent fuel flow by causing a partial vacuum in the tank.

 

[RecoilRob]

Yes....please make sure your tank vent is functional...if it's blocked the engine will slowly pull a vacuum on the tank and eventually die. When it's running and starts to misbehave...pop the filler cap and see if anything good happens.

To block the enrichment circuits first pull one of the choke plungers out of the carburetor and look at it closely. The main body has a seal surrounding the smaller diameter plunger and the whole thing is pushed in and seated by a spring. Make sure that seal is there and in good shape because that's what shuts off the enrichment flow. The 'needle' so to speak the seal surrounds then modulates the flow by being lifted up and out of the bore. This plunger must move smoothly and easily...as in the videos listed above clean and make sure the spring pressure is able to push it down and seat it securely. Take off the cable then reinstall the plunger assembly. This 'should' positively stop the choke from coming on. Hoping you then can reliably start and run the bike until your new choke cables arrive.

 

[Geo Smith]

Check to see if the Fuel filler cap venting is OK. If the filler cap breather system becomes blocked it will prevent fuel flow by causing a partial vacuum in the tank.

Yes, I did this one of the last times it killed just to be sure. Still had to push home.

This 'should' positively stop the choke from coming on. Hoping you then can reliably start and run the bike until your new choke cables arrive.

Thank you, I will pull the cable tomorrow.

 

[Geo Smith]

Recall, I drained the fuel, added a half bottle of Seafoam, and refilled with non-ethanol two days ago? After that I fired it up and it ran for about five minutes, then died. In another post I read of the Seafoam needing some time to work. So, out of curiosity, last night I tried starting it, and it fired up. I then took the bike for the longest ride I've had since all of these problems began.

In all, I rode for about 12 miles, and the bike ran beautifully. I am quite surprised, but pleased. Could it be that my primary problem all along was bad gas? I'm cautiously optimistic. We are expecting rain for the next four days in south Louisiana, so I won't be riding soon. But I'm hoping this lasts.

Thanks everybody for your sage advice.

Meantime, I plan to rebuild my extra carb set, rebuild my existing choke mechanism, install a new R/R, and remove whatever is rattling in my gas tank. Oh yea, when I removed my gas tank I heard something hard (like steel) rattling in the tank. Sounds like it's a screw or something, and I could not get it out. Last night when I was riding, at certain RPMs it would rattle like crazy. It was quite annoying, but I was in bliss with my running motorcycle. I will try to fish it out this morning with an extension magnet. Cheers!