Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am struggling with my imbedded pictures, so I have attached links as well if you want to see the dents.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8062975076/in/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8062974638/in/photostream/
I am trying to cover these to 2 tank dents with flat black 3M 1080 graphics to make them less noticeable. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on prep before I lay the graphics down. I don't want to go as far as mixing bondo and sanding it down. However, I was thinking about some sort of sealant/primer to avoid rust. I was also considering putting a couple "patches" of graphics over the dent to level it out some before covering the portion I am. Any thoughts/advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
a simple way to stop the tank from rusting (and non permanent, so that later down the road you can still fix it the right way) is plasti dip.

Are you planing on covering the whole tank in vinyl or just the areas where the dents are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,740 Posts
Did you try paintless ding repair. I had a ding just as big as the main one in your pic, it cost me $78 and it was flawless when it was done, took him 15 minutes.

Is the paint damaged beyond the clear coat?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,702 Posts
That looks like a tough one, but I'm not in the dent business. Some of those guys can do magic. I'd find out who's good in your area and get some different estimates. It's much easier to assess in person and with experience in the trade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The dents are bad. The metal has creased, it is down to bare metal in places, and there is a tiny bit of rust already. I am not planning on doing the whole tank, about 1/4 of it (the flat section on both sides where the dents are). Plasti-dip is a good idea, I will definitely look into it.
I got the bike for $1,300 and have only had to drop about $300 to get back into solid running shape. The bike is pretty cosmetically damaged in a lot of places, so I don't want to spend $125+ on dent pull & paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
You can sand the rust off and make sure it doesnt get any worse, then get some primer on it to get it sealed before you do anything else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,714 Posts
^^^ This.

Smoothing and primer are the most important parts.
Primer IS NOT waterproof so you need to get some sort of coating over it.

If you bridge vinyl over depressions in the surface, they can get poked and allow water in to breed rust.
Even a sharp transition from old paint surface to bare metal will have a vulnerable air gap.

Some Bondo, enough to smooth things would be beneficial for that damage.
You don't have to bring the curves all the way up to where it was.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
384 Posts
Here you go.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the advice and for posting my pictures for me.
I think you guys may be right about needing to sand, bondo, sand, and seal (my order is correct, right?)
I am still open to any thoughts or corrections to the plan.
I will definitely post pictures of how it goes, if I can figure it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did all my sanding today, it turns out that the Bondo I bought from Walmart was missing the hardner in the lid. It looks like I will have to swap it out today.
Lessons learned- use lots of tape so you are only sanding where you want, and sanding is going to take almost an hour for 2 little spots.
I took some pictures, but for the life of me cannot figure out how to properly post them. My rules say I am not allowed to post attachments, and even when I "grab the link" directly from flickr and insert it as an image, it's not working for me. I searched around and am following other's instructions, but I still get this:


Here's a link the the album I will keep updating as I go along until I figure out how to embed images- http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8077481548/in/photostream/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Wow you really sanded the crap out of that.... to apply bondo over dent like that it really only needs any loose stuff removed and roughed /clear removed with like 60 grit or sanding wheel attached to a power drill makes it even easier. The most important thing is to clean the area very well between steps with alcohol /acetone. Also not a bad idea to sand farther around the hole so that the bondo can b feathered out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Several of the loose places were at the very deepest parts of the dents, so I went ahead and sanded pretty deep. I am planning on sanding out a little farther with some finer grit, I knew it was going to have to sit a few days before I could continue, so I didn't want bare steel showing for too long.
As for the inside of the tank, I have never thought about looking in there. If there are some scratches, is there really anything you can do about that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,714 Posts
After you've fixed it to your satisfaction, keep the tank full whenever you're not using it.
Air in the tank is how moisture gets in and has a chance to condense.

I like to fill up whenever I'm close to home after a ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,581 Posts
sanding looks good, I bondo'd my first two dents, one on each side haha, its a lot easier than I had expected it to be, just be ready to work once you mix it, it will harden in a minute or two so you need to work quickly. Taping is key, you should just tape it off outside of the sanding marks you have and then do a light sanding on that whole area before painting.

Good luck :eek:ccasion14:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
The only other thing I can add to this is. That makes the end result better. Is once you bondo sand ect and your ready to paint clean the area (between every step regardless) then use the glazing an spot putty. It separate product for filling pin holes ect. Stuff that is hard to see. Sometimes you wont see until after priming or first coat of paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
The project is done, and my pictures probably didn't load again, so the link is updated.
Take-Aways
The 3M 1080 wrap is awesome, but not for curves at all. If you do use it and get wrinkles a hair dryer does miracles.
This ended up being about 4-5 hours and probably $35 after bondo, sandpaper and graphics. If I could do it again, I would just sand, bondo, sand, and put down some spray on bed liner.
It looks rough, but I wasn't going for perfect, so I am fine with how it turned out. It looks much worse in pictures than it does in person.
Do not clear coat anything you don't plan on covering up, it leaves a ridge where you taped off and if you sand the ridge it makes everything look bad (you can see it in several of the pictures).
I would definitely NOT say this is a must do job, but if you have nothing to lose (like me) I would do it, but a matte spray on paint instead of graphics.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top