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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done this? :idea: I converted the front discs on my '89 Katana but I don't remember if it made a big difference. By converting I mean popping the washers on the stock discs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Let me clarify. Full floating. If you pop the washer on the inner side of the buttons holding the disc to the carrier it relieves the pressure thus making them fully float.
 
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Man, this just sounds like a bad idea- risk without reward.

Without changing to a fixed (non-floating) caliper, I just don't see any advantage in increasing the rotors' axial travel. Also, I suspect the excessive movement may lead to increased wear of the carrier pins and possible catastrophic failure.

I know, everyone's got an opinion...

:)
 

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Ruefus said:
I don't see the point in this. The rotors float, the calipers float. Everything stays in line and auto-adjusts.
The caliper sits on two pins, and takes quite a lot of effort to move it. try it by hand. The rotors don't. If the caliper pins are anything but perfect, and I'm sure most are not, it would be possible that most of the braking is done by one pad. The only thing that moves the caliper is the spring washers in the buttons. It's possible that removing the washers would improve braking, but it would also indicate you need to rebuild your calipers. Plus I don't think the caliper would self center onthe rotor any more, which is my only concern in the mod.

Andy
 

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Rebuilt my front end after 19000 miles this Winter. Both inner and outer pads were worn equally.

At dis-assembly (and re-assembly), the calipers slid on their pins just fine. In order for the brakes to work worth a crap at all - they have to since the pistons are on one side only. Track days, aggressive sport riding, commuting.....they'd seen it all.
 

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Can you elaborate a bit more on the RC51 MC...

I found a guy that may have one cheap and Id like to know more about the benefits and install difficulty with braided lines.

Is the inside diameter of the banjo bolt the same for both? What about thread pitch?
 
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nc_sv650 said:
Man, this just sounds like a bad idea- risk without reward.

Without changing to a fixed (non-floating) caliper, I just don't see any advantage in increasing the rotors' axial travel. Also, I suspect the excessive movement may lead to increased wear of the carrier pins and possible catastrophic failure.

I know, everyone's got an opinion...

:)
nothing will happen.we used to do this on old gixers,pop washers on buttons out.
it wears out carier faster but nothing will fail.
it will not breake better either.we used to do it so brakes dont drag so much.
 

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The front rotors already float the connection to the carrier has play. I would like them to float the rear rotor. Brake pad life seems to be longer on floating rotors than fixed rotors possibly because on floating rotors the pads get knocked further away after braking. This causes them to drag less and wear less.

Zak
 

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Zak650 said:
The front rotors already float the connection to the carrier has play. I would like them to float the rear rotor. Brake pad life seems to be longer on floating rotors than fixed rotors possibly because on floating rotors the pads get knocked further away after braking. This causes them to drag less and wear less.

Zak
The rear caliper floats instead of the rotor.
 
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