[OnePointOh]

Hey all, new user here so bear with me as as I try to compile the info.

So I've been in and around the forum trying to fix this problem but I'm going to start a thread to see if someone might be able to help or point me to a resource. Feel free to skip to the TLDR.

I bought my SV650S in November 2021 with 30k miles that apparently was just serviced and had no issues on the test ride, which shortly after getting it home had a pretty badly slipping clutch. It would barely accelerate under throttle, no power, etc. I took the clutch apart and there was no clutch material on the plates, the plates were stuck together, the pressure plate surface was pretty badly scraped, and the springs were worn.

I replaced the clutch pack with an EBC one with springs, and gasket and topped it off with Ecstar Synthetic Oil, and it had worked pretty well for a couple months just fine until the same issue came up. I realized my mistake after looking at the packaging the next day where it said not to use synthetic and replaced the synthetic with R5000 Mineral (which I've been using since), and also did a clutch adjustment following the forum's clutch mantra.

Again it worked OK, but I had a slow drop out of my garage that broke the lever, mirror, shift linkage, and shift lever that I replaced with some ebay aftermarkets for the Levers and mirror and suzuki for the linkage. Regardless after a few months the opposite issue started happening where I wouldn't be able to disengage the clutch and changing gears was difficult to impossible. I readjusted it but nothing. I looked around and eventually found my clutch actuator to be bad and replaced it with a suzuki one with no luck, and also replaced the clutch cable.

I had decided to throw in the towel and give it to a shop nearby, he actually owns a SV650 so I'm pretty confident in him. I get it back in June 2022 with a bill of around 300 for a clutch replacement (suzuki pack), adjustment, etc. As a student that hit pretty hard but I need it to commute to school so I took it home. I've had no issues with the clutch since....until last week. It had been slowly getting harder to shift into gear but I chalked it up to cold weather in the morning, but just last Thursday it would slip like no ones business, rode it home at 25 mph.

I have tried my last resort of replacing the pressure plate, as I did that I checked the plates they were just fine with plenty of material. Topped it off with some oil but I'm gonna try doing a full oil change when I replace the chain (it rusted from the rain) and see if it fixes anything. I also readjusted the clutch again.

With that out the way TLDR; Got my 650S in Nov. 2021 with 30k miles, test drove it no issue, took it home that evening slipping clutch. December I replaced the clutch pack with EBC brand, clutch pack inside had no material and was stuck together and pressure plate was scraped, put synthetic in there, replaced it the next day with R5000 after realizing and adjusted the clutch. Worked fine until it didn't, low speed drop out my garage broke my brake lever, so got some ebay levers. Tried replacing the clutch actuator as it was bad, no luck, tried a new clutch cable, no luck. Gave it to a shop, got it back with the clutch pack replaced with OE and adjusted and it worked from June 2022 until just last week. Tried replacing the pressure plate as a last resort and readjusted the clutch again. Will do full oil change when I replace chain but it's worse than ever now.

Replaced : clutch pack x2 (1 EBC, 1 Suzuki), clutch springs, pressure plate, clutch actuator, clutch cable x2, and levers (ebay chinese).

Issues: Clutch wears out super fast and slips months after replacement, adjusting it to spec free play will not disengage the clutch, adjusting it to where the clutch "works" is 2-3 turns after resistance point on actuator.

I have some other issues with it, but this is something that has broken me, and I'm considering selling it for a VStrom. Any tips? Let me know if I've left something out that might solve the mystery, or if I'm just being stupid and it's staring right in my face. Thanks for reading my post.​

 

[Das Chicken]

After wearing through several clutches, you should probably check the oil pickup. I'm helping a neighbor today change the engine in his CBR 900RR that seized up from being oil starved due to clutch material clogging it.

Make sure you don't have any dragging brakes that require excess clutch slippage to start out. Also, you don't have any clutch frying habits do you? Things like holding the bike on hills using the clutch, frequently starting out in 2nd gear, or slipping clutch all the way to 5000+ RPM before engaging?

When the clutches were new, did they lock up tight with no slippage at all?

 

[OnePointOh]

Hey Das Chicken, thanks for the reply.

Make sure you don't have any dragging brakes that require excess clutch slippage to start out.

Funny you should say, I just changes the brake pads out because the brake response was starting to ween out. It's possible and I'll readjust the calipers.

Things like holding the bike on hills using the clutch

Only have one hill in my area, but I put it in neutral and hold brakes for just about any incline.

frequently starting out in 2nd gear

I always start in first, upshift past 4-5k, downshift for stops, and engine brake slowly for just about every non-emergency stop.

slipping clutch all the way to 5000+ RPM before engaging?

I ride pretty spirited, but still sensibly enough. I don't drag the clutch so I wait for it to engage completely and let it do so smoothly with light gas before I launch.

When I ride it though it's mostly fine, until it starts slipping around the 9k mark where I can't get any power out of it as it revs up. I don't go that high often, just to get on the freeway and evasive maneuvering.

When the clutches were new, did they lock up tight with no slippage at all?

With new clutch and adjustment, they locked up super tight, fully engage and disengage no issue. That's why I haven't given up yet because its definitely possible for it to function properly it just wears out super fast.

When the clutch starts getting bad its pretty bipolar, on the one hand it won't fully disengage at stops so I'm fumbling trying to shift it into neutral wobbling it back and forth, and on the other hand the clutch slips super bad at higher RPM as I said before.

 

[golden chicken]

levers (ebay chinese).

Issues: Clutch wears out super fast and slips months after replacement, adjusting it to spec free play will not disengage the clutch, adjusting it to where the clutch "works" is 2-3 turns after resistance point on actuator.

The lever might be part of the problem, but the fact you can't get free play is a major clue in my mind.

 

[OnePointOh]

The lever might be part of the problem, but the fact you can't get free play is a major clue in my mind.

These are the levers. My mechanic recommended I get the original levers, but the ones I have installed have have adjustable travel for brake/clutch fade. My logic is that more adjustment is better, and the after market lever has 6 levels of adjustment which you can either have pull more than, less than, equal to, or anywhere in between as opposed to the single position of the stock lever. That might be a fallacy on my end but, it would make sense no?

As for the free play, I feel like it has something to do with that as well. I have the coarse adjuster (by the actuator) screwed all the way out, and fine adjuster about halfway, and the lever at about the "3" setting which is in the Middle. If I adjust the fine adjuster screw in it'll grab but won't let go, and if I screw it out it'll let go but won't grab. I feel like there's a VERY SPECIFIC adjustment thats like 1/8 or 1/16th of a turn and it'll work relatively OK, but it shouldn't need that little tolerance...

On another note, I don't think that the coarse adjuster should be on its last threads, but the clutch cable is OE, and the fine adjustment is on the lever's pivot point meaning it shouldn't matter what lever I have, right?

 

[St.Dusan]

I know you've replaced the clutch cable but is it the right one? It should be different length for N and S versions.
Although it's longer for naked version and should work on S model too...
You should definitely have some slack in the cable. At least a few millimeters at the lever.
You sure you adjusted it correctly under the front sprocket cover?
Few more thing to check is if the lever is sticking and cable routing.

 

[OnePointOh]

Hey St.Dusan, thanks for the reply

I know you've replaced the clutch cable but is it the right one? It should be different length for N and S versions.

I ordered it from my local dealer, and verified the part number when I got it. I bought another cable that I'll install tomorrow in case it was defective. If anything my cable is a little long if my coarse adjuster is backed all the way up?

You should definitely have some slack in the cable. At least a few millimeters at the lever.

I adjust it to where I can fit 2 US dimes (~3mm) between the lever and pivot (See picture). There is slack in the cable at that adjustment so it gully engages, but no matter how hard I pull it in, the tire spins.

You sure you adjusted it correctly under the front sprocket cover?

There's no way to know for sure, but I'll record a video tomorrow and post it. I followed the clutch mantra though to the tee.

Few more thing to check is if the lever is sticking and cable routing.

I've greased and lubed the pivot, so it's pulls smoothly. The cable routing is pretty straight forward, there's metal guides too.

I'll double check everything tomorrow, I'll record a video so I can bring you guys along for my headache lol! Stay posted.

 

[golden chicken]

Some drag in the system is normal so the rear wheel will turn on a stand with the clutch disengaged, but it shouldn't have enough friction to move the bike with the wheel on the ground.

 

[OnePointOh]

Some drag in the system is normal so the rear wheel will turn on a stand with the clutch disengaged, but it shouldn't have enough friction to move the bike with the wheel on the ground.

Yeah it spins on a stand, but shifting is rough so I can tell the clutch doesn't disengage completely. When I get it off the stand it's able to move me with the clutch all the way in. Like I said above I think I'll just post a video as me blabbering on isn't too helpful.

 

[jeff762]

I hate say it, but I think your aftermarket lever is a significant part of the problem. The chinese made levers a mostly copies of the CRG levers and mostly out of spec. I recommend getting stock lever or CRG or ASV levers and going from there. There is another thread where someone is having front brake issues and they have levers similar to yours.

 

[OnePointOh]

I hate say it, but I think your aftermarket lever is a significant part of the problem. The chinese made levers a mostly copies of the CRG levers and mostly out of spec. I recommend getting stock lever or CRG or ASV levers and going from there. There is another thread where someone is having front brake issues and they have levers similar to yours.

Huh okay, I'll get the stock levers Tuesday when the dealer opens and I'll post a video of the results.

 

[jeff762]

Huh okay, I'll get the stock levers Tuesday when the dealer opens and I'll post a video of the results.

I also recommend doing the clutch montra after replacing the lever. Hopefully that will solve your issue.

 

[VFR4Lee]

Huh okay, I'll get the stock levers Tuesday when the dealer opens and I'll post a video of the results.

Did it help?