[bottlerocketdodger]

Went out for ride after oil change noticed clutch slip around 6-7k rpm and continue on till rev limit. This goes on through all gears but only after 6-7k rpm. changed oil from 4 stroke motorcycle mobil 10W-40 to Mobil 1 Racing 4T fully synthetic 10W-40. Just wondering if anyone else has had trouble with this oil.

 

[pne]

it might be the friction modifiers in the synthetic oil. I've been told not to use synthetic car oil in a bike due to this. If the clutch is slipping bad enough for you to notice, I'd switch back to dino oil.

 

[tlc4diving]

I don't care what anybody says about theirs, but I HATE synthetic oil in my bike. I used 2 changes of it, but only ran it about 1500 miles each time before it'd get clunky when I shifted. I went back to the non-synthetic oil. Its much cheaper too.

 

[eddiemon]

I am also a old school dino oil user. 8)

 

[bottlerocketdodger]

thanks guys, I needed to hear this. any dyno oil recommendation? I've heard good things about rotella & amsoil. is there a popular brand that I'd find at pepboys or kragen?

 

[Hellfire]

I had this same problem about 2 months ago. I thought it was the oil because I changed brands but when I switched back to my original the slipage kept happening. I ended up having to replece the clutch springs and it worked like a million bucks. I would recommend changing out all the plates if that ends up being the problem. Hope you get her fixed!

 

[neemeth]

When using synthetic oil you MUST check to see if it has "energy conserving" modifiers in it. To figure out if it does look at the back of the bottle. You will see a round seal. The bottom half of the seal will either be empty or say energy conserving. If it says energy conserving for gods sake stay away.

Check out this link for a pic of the seal http://www.bardahl.ca/images/API.GIF.

Don't quote me on this but I think the only remaining Mobil 1 that is not energy conserving is the 15w-50 which is what I always run.

I know this info because I found out the hard way on my last bike. Get that oil out of there now and put in some good stuff. I have read online that this can be irreversible. Mine wasn't. After the oil change I was as good as new.

 

[bottlerocketdodger]

Ok, i'm an idiot. I adjusted the clutch set screw to hand tight and tightened down the retaining nut, took her around the block and everything seems to be just fine. btw I am using the oil pictured below. there is no energy savings label on it & its full title is " Mobil 1 Racing 4T Fully Synthetic 10W-40 4 cycle motorcycle oil. 1 quart was 9.50 each. I'm pretty sure theres a lot of others out there who dont have any issues with this oil. I will be checking for the "clanking" noise around 1500 mi though. Thanks for your input on this dead-horse-beating topic! Cheers, Sam

 

[tlrn8]

I had the same thing with my TLR. I just poped in some stiffer springs from barnett and that did the trick. Frankly, i didn't think the stock plates bit hard enough on that bike to begin with. I liked the Mobil 1 bike oil (but not the $9.00/qt price). I think my tranny shifted better, and the bike ran a little cooler.

 

[jiggy]

If the oil is absorbed by the clutch plates, it can make them "slick" (slip) for life. You might end up having to replace them but I've had luck removing the clutch plates, cleaning the plates with brake cleaner and reinstalling without any problems. Good luck.

 

[Johnny5]

You have to get oil without MOLY. MOLY Screws with any wet clutches (supposedly - got that info from a great Honda tech). I use the Honda HP4 10w40, specifically without it. It's actually a reason why you shouldn't use car oil in your bike. Synthetic car oils have MOLY because they have wet clutches that use separate lubricant where most bikes use the same lube for engine and clutch (obviously).

 

[dubtecv2]

I noticed a difference in clutch feel when I switched from Rotella dino to Rotella synthetic. My clutch was kinda grabby at first, now the engagement is more linear.

 

[Nexus242]

Rotella is available at Wally World.

 

[andyauger]

Molybdenum disulfide, moly, MoS2 (all the same stuff) is not the only additive you should avoid. Most energy conserving oils use polymers. If it says "Energy Conserving" in the API donut, don't use it.

Synthetics are fine, although the SV doesn't really need them.

The clutch adjusting screw should be set to light contact, and then backed off 1/4 turn (counterclockwise) before tightening the lock nut.

 

[eddiemon]

So it was just a clutch adjustment, not the oil?

 

[jessejames022689]

i switched to the mobil 1 10w-40 also and i gotta say i like it better than the conventional. my engagement just feels smoother to me.

 

[neemeth]

Ok, i'm an idiot. I adjusted the clutch set screw to hand tight and tightened down the retaining nut, took her around the block and everything seems to be just fine. btw I am using the oil pictured below. there is no energy savings label on it & its full title is " Mobil 1 Racing 4T Fully Synthetic 10W-40 4 cycle motorcycle oil. 1 quart was 9.50 each. I'm pretty sure theres a lot of others out there who dont have any issues with this oil. I will be checking for the "clanking" noise around 1500 mi though. Thanks for your input on this dead-horse-beating topic! Cheers, Sam

I guess I was wrong there is more than just the 15w-50 in non energy conserving. Told ya not to quote me on it. Haha

 

[swiest152]

Ive ran that mobil one stuff and amsoil full synthetic. No problems at all. My father wont run anything else but mobil one full synthetic in his bikes. I dont run anything but Amsoil. ( except for last oil change I used mobil one )

Unless you want to change your oil every 2000 miles with rotella or other low grade oils, run mobil one or amsoil. Treat your bike right with good oil.

 

[andyauger]

Based on laboratory oil testing, I am changing my oil every 5,000 miles, Rotella T 15W-40. There is still life left at 5,000 miles, it's just easy to remember and the oil is cheap enough, so that's my schedule.

HOWEVER, I never ride short distances (minimum ride about 45 minutes, most rides more than an hour.

If you ride lots of short hops or if you ride infrequently (more than 6 months between oil change mileage) then you need to adjust. Synthetic oils are just as subject to additive package deterioration as standard oils. That's why you don't see the "greatly extends oil change interval" stuff any more. They become acidic and saturated with particulates just like regular old oil.

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#How Sludge is Prevented

One of the best, most factual articles I've read on various oil topics.

 

[Johnny5]

Probably doesn't help to have the clutch included in there either as far as oil life, eh Andy?