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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased one of those one finger stunt clutch levers off ebay for like $30. Figure I'd give it a try. I don't stunt but, want to see how it feels to ride with. The only issue though, is from the photos I don't see that is has a connection for the little two wire plug that normally attaches. What do those wires do?

Thanks.
 

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Clutch switch wires. You will need to use a small pice of wire or paper clip to use as a jumper to make the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So every time the clutch lever is pulled those wires need to make a connection? Or are you saying just to leave them jumped?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Watched a couple videos and I think I get it. You leave them jumped so ECU thinks the clutch is always pressed in. You just have to make sure the bike is in neutral or you actually do have the clutch squeezed or you will be able to start the bike in gear.
 

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Correct. Be aware there are a few known issues this causes--all well-documented on the forum. Including running a richer map up to 3000? rpm, and some people reported stalling when the clutch is pulled in.
 

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So every time the clutch lever is pulled those wires need to make a connection? Or are you saying just to leave them jumped?
Correct. I run CRG perch / lever and have the switch jumped. I use electrical tape over it and a small zip tie as well to make sure everything stays where it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Correct. I run CRG perch / lever and have the switch jumped. I use electrical tape over it and a small zip tie as well to make sure everything stays where it should.
Ok, great, I can do that. What sort have "known issue's" have you had to deal with as a result of doing this?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I watched TeeRiver's video on how jumping the wire affects the fuel map. I don't want to run it that way. I've ordered a few different adhesive, slim membrane style momentary switches from ebay. Thinking I may be able to mount one onto the front of the lever so it gets depressed when I squeeze it. Probably an over-engineered long shot but I'll enjoy taking a shot at it. The switches are on there way from China right now so I'll update this once I get them and let everyone know how it turned out.
54375
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Discussion Starter #11
I've got a 2g. According to TeeRiver if you do the "Smart Bypass" like you workshop doc describes then the bike may be harder to start since it never senses that the clutch is pulled in and thus never switches to the "Starting" fuel map. Any experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I also think I read somewhere that someone wired it to the Press To Pass button so you can still use it during startup. I think I'm going to try that.
 

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just curious why ppl haven't wired it to the actual starter switch? That would make it a simple one-touch solution, would it not? what would be the pitfalls of doing it that way?
 

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Ditto. I’d never considered that either until a few days ago, but I’ve never been interested in the bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Where were you three days ago!?! LOL I did end up wiring it to the flash to pass switch. Now I have a little secret to starting the bike, which I kind of like.
 

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just curious why ppl haven't wired it to the actual starter switch? That would make it a simple one-touch solution, would it not? what would be the pitfalls of doing it that way?
It's not exactly that simple. The start switch controls the positive side of the starter relay coil. The clutch switch controls the ground side and it also gives that ground as a signal to the ECU to tell it when you are pulling the clutch. We know the ECU runs in a slightly richer fuel map under 3000? rpm when the clutch switch is activated. If it weren't important for the ECU to know when the clutch switch is being activated, then there wouldn't be a signal wire and different map. We just don't know what that "important" reason is--or if there are multiple reasons.

So, for 100% operation, the clutch switch needs to work as designed. Bypassing it by shorting the switch has caused some riders to experience stalling or bucking. Bypassing by shorting the switch and cutting the signal wire to the ECU has caused some riders to experience difficulties cold starting, so that might be part of the reasoning for the signal wire to the ECU.

I guess you could bypass the clutch switch with a paper clip and use another relay controlled by the start switch to give a ground to the ECU for startup. That might get your cold start function while preventing the stalling/bucking. You might still have issues under conditions where the fuel enrichment at low rpms with the engine running might be useful, like in cold ambient temps with the engine below normal operating temp.
 

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It's not exactly that simple. The start switch controls the positive side of the starter relay coil. The clutch switch controls the ground side and it also gives that ground as a signal to the ECU to tell it when you are pulling the clutch. We know the ECU runs in a slightly richer fuel map under 3000? rpm when the clutch switch is activated. If it weren't important for the ECU to know when the clutch switch is being activated, then there wouldn't be a signal wire and different map. We just don't know what that "important" reason is--or if there are multiple reasons.

So, for 100% operation, the clutch switch needs to work as designed. Bypassing it by shorting the switch has caused some riders to experience stalling or bucking. Bypassing by shorting the switch and cutting the signal wire to the ECU has caused some riders to experience difficulties cold starting, so that might be part of the reasoning for the signal wire to the ECU.

I guess you could bypass the clutch switch with a paper clip and use another relay controlled by the start switch to give a ground to the ECU for startup. That might get your cold start function while preventing the stalling/bucking. You might still have issues under conditions where the fuel enrichment at low rpms with the engine running might be useful, like in cold ambient temps with the engine below normal operating temp.
Oh icic - thanks for the clear and detailed explanation!
My stab-in-the-dark guess for a richer map below 3k rpm would be maybe like an anti-stall feature to counter the rapid drop in rpm if you're pulling in the clutch while moving? No idea, just a wild guess. Can you confirm with certainty that it makes no difference above 3000 rpm, and nothing else is affected either?

My clutch switch is wired to a toggle, so it needs to be on to start the bike. (Actually I didn't want toggle, i wanted a push-on, release-off type but I bought the wrong switch.) Anyway as it is, once started i can turn it off, but quite a few times i have forgotten to, and I have noticed no difference at all. I live in a hot climate and the bike runs normally regardless of toggle position, and it's never once stalled when pulling up to traffic lights nor any problems with cold starting.
 

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if I moved the toggle switch to a hidden location then it would basically make for a great simple anti theft feature lol
 

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Oh icic - thanks for the clear and detailed explanation!
My stab-in-the-dark guess for a richer map below 3k rpm would be maybe like an anti-stall feature to counter the rapid drop in rpm if you're pulling in the clutch while moving? No idea, just a wild guess. Can you confirm with certainty that it makes no difference above 3000 rpm, and nothing else is affected either?

My clutch switch is wired to a toggle, so it needs to be on to start the bike. (Actually I didn't want toggle, i wanted a push-on, release-off type but I bought the wrong switch.) Anyway as it is, once started i can turn it off, but quite a few times i have forgotten to, and I have noticed no difference at all. I live in a hot climate and the bike runs normally regardless of toggle position, and it's never once stalled when pulling up to traffic lights nor any problems with cold starting.
I didn't do the experiment myself, and it seems the thread has been lost in the switchover to the new forum, but I'm 99% sure the ECU switches back to the regular map above a certain rpm. I believe it was 3000 or 3500, but I could be misremembering that particular detail. I think they figured it was unnecessary at higher rpm, or that if you were doing that, it was more likely you are actually riding and the switch is shorted or bypassed than standing there in neutral revving it for extended periods.
 
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