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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just fired up my 2004 SV after working on it for the past year and it seems something is seriously wrong with the transmission. After adjusting the clutch cable (at both ends) and the adjuster nut to required spec, the rear wheel spins when no throttle is applied. When clutch is engaged, the wheel stops. Linkage seems to be in order and shifting feels solid. Turning the adjuster nut in also stops the wheel. Could this be due to a bad or slipping clutch? The bike only has 2000 miles and has spent 5+ years sitting. Any advice and/or solutions would be incredibly helpful. Thanks.
 

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Do you mean the clutch is slipping when engaged and your attempting to accelerate, or it refuses to disengage when you pull your clutch lever in to come to a stop? Engine running, on a paddock stand, my tire spins very (very very) slightly when in gear and the clutch is disengaged.

Did you use a motor oil with a friction modifier?


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The bike will not accelerate at all. When throttle is applied, the rear wheel receives no power. On my rear stand with engine running, the rear tire spins rapidly with clutch disengaged. Not exactly sure what this friction modifier is, last oil change was done a couple months ago with mobil 1 full synthetic.
 

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Friction modifiers are used in vehicles with dry clutches. They help maintain oil viscosity over time and frequent temperature changes to help the oil last longer and prevent parts wear. These chemicals play hell with a wet clutch and can ruin them, making them useless by causing them to slip.

You used Mobil 1's 10w-40 Motorcycle oil? If that's the case, then the oil isn't the problem, and I unfortunately don't know what to tell you. I hope someone more knowledgeable with clutches/transmission shows up.

Good luck, dude.
 

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I'd think you've messed up the adjustments....which from reading here is pretty easy to do following the manual. Won't be the first to get it 'perfect' and it not work.:) I'd try giving it more free-play....enough that you can be sure the clutch rod is NOT being pushed at all when the lever is released. If that actually IS the case now....you've got problems. The push-rod can get rusty/gunky and stick so it won't release properly I think. Maybe go over the adjustments again with the thought of maintaining free-play even if it doesn't follow the instructions exactly.
 

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The push-rod can get rusty/gunky and stick so it won't release properly I think.exactly.
That would fall in-line with how he said the bike's been sitting for a long time. If it was stored with oil that broke down and allowed moisture/high acidity etc, he might end up with mild rust or sludge on some parts preventing the clutch rod from having a smooth action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will take the linkage apart, clean and lube all necessary parts, redo the adjustments, and then see where I'm at. Thanks for the suggestions (fingers crossed).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, so it looks like RecoilRob might be right. With clutch cable loosened all the way, and adjuster screw backed all of the way out the rear wheel still spins, but transmission clunks about. Is this a sign that the clutch is never actually disengaging? The wheel stops spinning (in all gears) only when clutch lever is pulled in.
 

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but transmission clunks about.
Sorry, not really understanding what you mean there. It is making noise? But it still disengages when you pull the lever to the bar? The disengaging part means the clutch plates are being pushed far enough apart to slip properly, but the only thing that makes it engage are the springs pushing on the hat. If that push rod is really gunked up, it can be dragging enough that the springs can't push it back out and will make it slip.

If you look at the diagram http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeI.../Model/SV650,S,A/GroupID/359273/Group/CLUTCH_ rod 15 is the thing I'm wondering about being stuck. Just a guess. But if it were me, I'd take the cam mechanism off and make sure that rod is free and lubed up nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I took the clutch apart only to find out that it wasn't the push rod at all. It turns out that 3 of my clutch plates were shattered! The parts for repair have been ordered. Any guesses as to how this might've happened? I know the P.O. laid it down on that side before it went out of commission.
 

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Well! Great that you've found the problem.:) How to shatter clutch plates? Could have been the crash, or maybe he/she (PO) was fond of doing clutch-up wheelies? It amazes me to see people revving and dumping the clutches like they do...and are oblivious to the shock hell they are putting the plates through.

Regardless of how and why, you've found the problem and should be good to go from here on out. And....bonus....you now know more about your clutch than most riders!:)
 

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I've worn grooves into a clutch basket before but never shattered a plate. I vote crash did it. :p


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I agree and am happy to have found the culprit. Judging by the shape of the rear grab handle, a wheelie was definitely what put the bike out of commission. I now have new clutch plates to install, but have a small concern. When the original plates shattered, it seems some rubbing inside the clutch occurred. I now have small traces of metal shavings deposited on the fixture that houses the discs. If these shavings have circulated throughout the engine could they lead to bigger issues?


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If these shavings have circulated throughout the engine could they lead to bigger issues?
Oh yes. But, there should be a screen to stop major clutch debris from getting into the oiling system. (the 1K does for sure, and I'm guessing the 650 is similar) Got to clean up as much of the mess as you can before buttoning it back up.
 
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