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they are very touchy about removing safty devices here, i asked about removing my kick stand switch and almost got hung, " not trying to down any one i c where the concern comes from)  now that i think about it there probably right but its nice info to know

if your really hell bent on doig it, find yourself a wiring diagram and find the switch on the bike, probably have to "short" it out but might cause other problems so you might want to install a switch inline so you can disable your bike if you really want to, kinda like a security alarm, just a thought
 

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dackler said:
Its that hard to pull the lever for 2 seconds?

Im just trying to figure out what the benefit/advantage to doing this would be...
I have no idea how one would go about it.


How about avoiding spending 2 hours trying to figure out why the fahk your bike won't start, only to discover that the clutch lever safety interlock switch was slightly ajar, making the bike inoperable?



I forgot exactly what I did, but suffice to say that my fix involved wire cutters and electrical tape. No issues since then, and I still depress the clutch lever when starting....
 

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Its just the two wires up at the microswitch, pull em loose, the bike will either crank with em wired together or apart, Id use solder and shrink if it needs spliced, just to make sure it didn't come loose at an inopportune time.

My clutch safety is getting removed as well, but the sidestand switch will definitely stay, those are a tad more important. I remember when bikes didn't have clutch switches.....
 

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As I've posted in the past, safeties like the sidestand and clutch and neutral were non-existent until (I think) the late '70s. You can live without them if you are careful and methodical about riding. There is a small wire pair at the clutch lever going into the clutch lever mount. Pull them and solder them together to eliminate the safety.

You need to consider and remember that it is a safety device. I truly doubt the bike would start and run away if you tried to start it with the clutch engaged and in gear. What would probably happen is that the bike would lurch forward a couple of feet and fall over since the kickstand would fold. This would most likely only happen once.

I rewired a Corvette for a friend of mine. It was a 1972 that was set up for gymkhana/autocross. The wiring was always a problem so I stripped the harness and rewired the car like it was a 1956 Chevy. One of my neighbors was watching me. He asked which wires I was getting rid of. Seatbelt warning and door ajar warning were among them. He asked if that was safe. I replied that if you didn't know to fasten your seatbelts and close the door you probably had no business in a 600 HP automobile with a 4:88 rear end.
 

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My clutch switch went bad at a gas station in the middle of nowhere, couldn't start the bike. I just crammed a wire in the switch to jumper it. Worked great!!!!
 

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I hate that they have reduntant safety devices on our motorized vehicles. There really is no need for the clutch switch. As long as you have the safety switch on the kickstand working the bike won't start in gear with the KS down. Worse case senario is that the bike lurges forward when in gear but the bike will be upright with both feet on the ground (hopefully). You feel the lurch then stop pressing the starter switch, either pull in the clutch or put it in neutral. I removed my clutch switch about a year ago and never had any issues with the bike possibly falling.

Grav.
 

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Robsv650 said:
one handed starts for the most part, like when i got my helmet & gloves in one hand & want to start the bike without setting down all my gear.
I do one handed starts with my gear in my hand. Put your left thigh against the clutch lever as you start the bike with your right hand. I do it so often I don't even think about it. I even had a riding buddy ask if I had disabled the clutch switch. To me it's just part of sitting on the bike.

-josh
 

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eventually, your clutch perch & lever will have worn so much, that you cannot make the safety switch work without replacing the perch & assembly, eventually uou will want to replace the clutch perch & lever anyway cause it will be so worn that there is more play up & down in the lever than cable motion
 

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I just got rid of mine a week or so ago. I always pull the clutch anyway, but I've got some other things in the works, and decided to bypass it. I cut the wires pretty short, and then pulled the switch cluster apart, and pushed the wires into (after twisting/elec tape) the switch housing alongside all the other wires for the turnsignals and such. I even removed and replaced the zip-tie that holds the wires together.

It's a much cleaner look now, as there's not two wires hanging out in the open by themselves. I'm not worried about it, as like I said, I always pull the clutch anyway when I start the bike. It's become such a habit that I don't think I'll change now.
 
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