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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Is it okay that I set the handle at 12 with just the sprocket adjuster? Or am I doing something wrong there ?
The lever adjuster is all the way in then
 

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Is it okay that I set the handle at 12 with just the sprocket adjuster? Or am I doing something wrong there ?
The lever adjuster is all the way in then
Here's a video from Sergei that goes through the whole adjustment process in detail..
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Okay i readjusted again like the handbook said.
Didnt put the cable all in the lever. Let it a bit out. Looks like shit is working now as it should. Blasted like a pro and didnt notice any problems.
Maybe the cable is a little stretched.
Now my final question. Can i make the clutch pick up earlier like in the beginning or something?
 

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I would suggest replacing the clutch cable. It's a $17 part and yours is 18 years old now. Make sure to lube the new cable.

As said before if you want the clutch to engage earlier, you can move the set screw back only 1/8 instead of 1/4 turn. But always make sure there's is enough freeplay in the clutch so the push rod doesn't push against the clutch plates when in the resting position.

Also double check the clutch arm has about this angle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I would suggest replacing the clutch cable. It's a $17 part and yours is 18 years old now. Make sure to lube the new cable.

As said before if you want the clutch to engage earlier, you can move the set screw back only 1/8 instead of 1/4 turn. But always make sure there's is enough freeplay in the clutch so the push rod doesn't push against the clutch plates when in the resting position.

Also double check the clutch arm has about this angle:
Do you think it is necessary with 14k km? The cable really looks good.
Does the angle has to be exactly like that or is it a bit like that ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You have a weird clutch issue, your bike is 18 years old, it's preventative maintenance. Up to you, but you can be cheap now or get stranded with an expensive towing bill later.
I will change it.
So does the anlge really have to be like that or is it an indication
 

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Please stop quoting my reply. I get a notification every time and it's starting to annoy me.
Thousands of people have used the above steps to perfectly adjust their clutch. You'll figure it out. It takes a bit of fiddling but once set correctly the gear changes will be buttery smooth and quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ok I found it out. When I adjust the cable and let it overnight there is no problem with the clutch.
When I adjust it and immediately drive the clutch won't work like it should. How is this possible.... After adjusting yesterday it works great the day after and stays working. Maybe the cable is broken or something. It's a problem that I never had with all 12 motor cycles I had.

There a reason why this method works?
It is really really strange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Thanks for helping everyone. I lubed the clutch cable and setted it to factory spec 12 mm on the ball. It shifts like butter now and the neutral is buttery smooth to.
I also had more clearence with the adjuster beneath and my free play I can really feel it is lose to 12 mm now. So if you ever ever have clutch problems lube the cable !

Problems fixed : Very Very hard braking on the throttle lose, Lower temps cause the clutch isnt dragging anymore, Motorbike is less aggresive now and smooth, Shifts like butter, Uses less fuel.
 

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I have occasionally had the same problem, though not the dark oil. I have cleared the problem by disassembling and reassembling the clutch plates and performing an oil change. I don’t precisely following the adjustment settings in the manual. I make sure ALL of the tension is off the engagement rod with the clutch lever completely out and about 1/4” gap between the lever and the bracket.
 
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