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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fellow Riders,

I searched the forums for a thread relating to this issue, but I couldn't find anything close enough to my problem. Feel free to direct me elsewhere if there is a thread regarding this.

I was out smashing through the hills by my house yesterday, pushing the bike pretty hard, and towards the end of the ride I could not disengage my clutch fully. As I was coming to a stop, I went to pull the clutch lever in, and it immediately felt like it was way out of adjustment. The bike died due to not being able to disengage the clutch. I finally got it into first gear and rode home (in first gear, which took a while ha ha).

I let the bike cool down, thinking I might have cooked the clutch a bit from quick shifting (I don't burn through the clutch). After letting it set over night, it still feels loose. There's a lot of wiggle on the lever, like a lot of unnecessary free play. The clutch does not even begin to disengage until the last half-inch between the lever and the handgrip, even after adjusting everything all the way out at the lever base and down near the clutch.

I'm wondering if this is a problem with the clutch itself, the cable, or the actuator. Thanks in advance for your comments! Feel free to ask questions. :ears: And sorry for the long initial post. Ha ha.
 

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My bet is on the cable and it's likely the cheapest thing to replace at around 10 bucks.


The clutch plates are likely fine and if anything failed in the clutch it would be the springs. You'd feel slippage if it were the plates.

I don't think the actuator would be the problem unless you can not move it by hand, the primary problem with those is when the internal bearings fall out of the case and it's no longer easy to rotate. Seems like this is not the problem for you.

Still rather surprising that any of it would result in this issue as I'd have figured the clutch cable would snap rather than just hella elongate... May want to look into a second opinion before taking action as I'm still new at repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the comment!

I initially assumed either the clutch springs or the cable as well, given the feel. I will fiddle with it when I get off work today. The actuator itself seems fine, and there were no funky smells from the clutch area. It feels like a really loose cable. My buddy's dad (a seasoned mechanic of all kinds) says the threads of the cable could have stretched out from hard use. I tend to ride my Suzie like a race bike when I get really into it. I very well could have worn the thing out. I may watch too much Isle of Man TT. :vroom: Ha ha ha!

Another side but somewhat related question: does the clutch have shared oil or seperate oil from the engine? I'm new to this bike and bikes period. I've always been a car guy, but man are bikes fun!

I welcome any other comments or questions! Thanks again. :eek:ccasion14:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, Medivith. Good to know.

If it's mangled all to sh*t, I'll be sure to post a picture of it. I'm stopping by the parts store on my way home to see if they have a cable in their inventory or catalog. I know they are not the easiest to find for these bikes, at the least curvies from what I have read.

Given that the bike has a bit under 7k miles, the clutch itself should be far from worn out. Granted I don't know how the previous owner rode it (t'was a weekend ridden bike). On the other hand, I am always looking for upgrades, and a performance clutch could take a good amount of abuse. Could anyone tell me the downsides of a, say, Barnett performance clutch over an OEM Suzuki clutch? I assume easy-going driveability might be somewhat compromised. Is it pretty much unnecessary unless one is drag racing the bike?
 

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I had same problem after ruling out everything I disassembled clutch . The basket is probably grooved from the plates and they are catching not allowing it to disengage . Take a file and lightly file the sides down where the plates hit until the black marks disappear and reassemble this cured my problem ! This is a last resort if nothing else works !
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, cooker1! I'll definitely keep that in mind when I'm diagnosing further. I almost hope I have to disassemble the clutch. ;D I love tinkering and learning mechanics! Ha ha.
 

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I had same problem after ruling out everything I disassembled clutch . The basket is probably grooved from the plates and they are catching not allowing it to disengage . Take a file and lightly file the sides down where the plates hit until the black marks disappear and reassemble this cured my problem ! This is a last resort if nothing else works !
Would this possibly cause the reverse problem as well? Moving at speed and up shifting but having the bike act like you found neutral between 4th and 5th?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Would this possibly cause the reverse problem as well? Moving at speed and up shifting but having the bike act like you found neutral between 4th and 5th?
I think the idea is to file it down just enough to stop sticking and begin moving freely again. I could see where that's an easy area to make mistakes though, including uneven edges and (minor) weight distribution on the clutch plates themselves.
 

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You can get false neutrals but usually just from not enough shift pressure up or down have had a couple that really F(CKT me up !!!!! Anyway if you have to resort to this be gentle just file enough to remove the discolaration from where the plates hit you will be able to feel it and tell if it is smooth don't get in a hurry it takes awhile depending on how hard it has been slammed ! ( In my case tooki a couple hours ) ! I did this about halfway through last season and have not had a problem since !
 

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Did you go through and do a complete adjustment? Not just at the lever end?
 

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With clutch lever pulled all the way in, I would expect to be able to push the bile just like it was in neutral but I get a fair amount of resistance. Not sure where to start or how to attack this.
 

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With clutch lever pulled all the way in, I would expect to be able to push the bile just like it was in neutral but I get a fair amount of resistance. Not sure where to start or how to attack this.
depends on the viscosity of the oil, with thick cold oil there is a lot of resistance

this thread is 5 months old, I hope the OP figgerd his problem a long time ago
 
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