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Discussion Starter #1
Ive posted about this same problem before I think? Suspect somethings up with my clutch because I cant adjust it properly. Which way do I turn the mechanism to make it easier to shift? Clockwise I thought? Think ive tried every possible position on the damn thing today, from out none to about 1/2 turn. Only one very specific position seems to work but I had trouble downshifting. Supposed to be loaded up for a trackday atm :D
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Somethings not right, while the adjustment isnt random there isn't a trend going one direction or the other. Adjustments are repeatable only just, because its sensitive to 1mm adjustments. Going to rebuild the worm gear tomorrow in case its put together wrong. When the clutch is starting to engage I can hear it knocking, is this a sign of anything?
 

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I went through this when I got my Curvy and made a page of the work I did,

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/SV650ClutchLifter.html

as I had trouble getting into neutral.I tried a new,"Slinky Glide" cable which I had used on other bikes but the Metal curved guide had a tighter radius and bound causing the lever to be stiff.Went back the the original,no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I went through this when I got my Curvy and made a page of the work I did,

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/SV650ClutchLifter.html

as I had trouble getting into neutral.I tried a new,"Slinky Glide" cable which I had used on other bikes but the Metal curved guide had a tighter radius and bound causing the lever to be stiff.Went back the the original,no problems.
Good info, I switched to a race cable without metal bends because the originals would split after a few days. Depending how it's adjusted it can shift, but the pull is ridiculously heavy. If I leave 3mm play at the lever for instance, but if I set free play to 4-5mm the bike creeps forward in gear, no matter how its adjusted.

Made sure the worm gear was together properly already, your page was very helpful also for my other sv. Guess ill try the original cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Suspect an internal clutch issue, also hearing knocking as I let the clutch out. Any idea where to start?
 

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i can only hear it in neutral, i pull the clutch in and it goes away. low rythmic clunk or muffled knock. like the previous owner revved it up and dumped the clutch. maybe the clutch basket got twisted.
 

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I would do a visual inspection of the clutch basket. It only takes 20 minutes. Remove the clutch cover. Do a quick check of clutch bolt tightness.

Then remove the stack of friction and slick plates (keeping them in order slick/friction/slick/friction/etc) and pay attention to 1) discoloration (overheating), 2) warped discs, 3) smoothness of slots and teeth of basket and discs, and 4) no damage to springs or pressure plate.
 

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Think about what you are trying to accomplish when adjusting the clutch: you need enough free play to allow the springs to compress the plates without any pressure loss to the disengagement mechanism.....while allowing the clutch lever to disengage the plates far enough so they don't drag. The easiest way to go about it is to just make sure you have a little free play when the lever is fully released (both at the clutch release mechanism as well as the lever itself) and then whatever pressure it takes to pull the lever is all in the clutch springs with the added drag (which should be minimal) of the cable friction.

If it's difficult to shift that sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging......which could either be improper adjustment or something mechanical internally preventing the clean release of the plates. Once you have the free play at the worm drive adjusted so it's adequate to ensure full engagement...but only a wee bit so the clutch lever movement can press the plates apart as far as possible....if it still drags then you have an internal problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Think about what you are trying to accomplish when adjusting the clutch: you need enough free play to allow the springs to compress the plates without any pressure loss to the disengagement mechanism.....while allowing the clutch lever to disengage the plates far enough so they don't drag. The easiest way to go about it is to just make sure you have a little free play when the lever is fully released (both at the clutch release mechanism as well as the lever itself) and then whatever pressure it takes to pull the lever is all in the clutch springs with the added drag (which should be minimal) of the cable friction.

If it's difficult to shift that sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging......which could either be improper adjustment or something mechanical internally preventing the clean release of the plates. Once you have the free play at the worm drive adjusted so it's adequate to ensure full engagement...but only a wee bit so the clutch lever movement can press the plates apart as far as possible....if it still drags then you have an internal problem.
Any ideas what to look for with the cover off? Idk anything about clutch internals. Do I need to replace the gasket or apply case sealant after?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
In the oil fill port I see the plates only move 2-3 mil when the lever is in. Also hard to see how much, but for sure the basket is notched.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also noticed according to Straticus page, my worm gear body was installed backwards with the fat side on the left. No change after reversing it. Does the orientation of the tab matter that holds the sleeve in?
 

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Also noticed according to Straticus page, my worm gear body was installed backwards with the fat side on the left. No change after reversing it. Does the orientation of the tab matter that holds the sleeve in?
I don't think so but I think I kept mine the same as it came off.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Found blue streaks on every steel but they lay flat on glass. Everything is in spec. Also one spring was either at the service limit (50.5) or 50.6mm. Basket rotates freely without the discs, don't really feel notching, but there are marks at all the contact points and it isnt perfectly smooth..not sure where to go from here. Any reason to remove the hub from the basket?
Pics
 

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He's asking about his track bike which his profile states is an 07. Unless the clutch cover has been replaced, it's a 2nd gen with a 1 piece cover rather than a 1st gen with the plastic sub-cover. I highly doubt the cover has warped.

Even on the 1st gens, a warped cover shouldn't result in any clutch problems, just a bit of a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The clutch adjustment screw has road rash, I wonder what could be damaged by an impact here. I assume the rod would just be depressed unless it reached the end of travel. Seems like the clutch cable would be torn or the clutch bearing would be crushed. Also are gen1/gen2 adjusters compatible? edit: never mind same part number.
 

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The clutch adjustment screw has road rash, I wonder what could be damaged by an impact here. I assume the rod would just be depressed unless it reached the end of travel. Seems like the clutch cable would be torn or the clutch bearing would be crushed. Also are gen1/gen2 adjusters compatible? edit: never mind same part number.
Taken from,

https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/5sifqr/2003_suzuki_sv650_shifter_problems_after_0_mph/

If you suspect the bike has been dropped on the left hand side,

You mave have bent the shifter shaft a bit in the tip over, or you may have pushed it over to the right hand side.

Remove the countershaft sprocket cover and try pulling on the shifter shaft to see if it moves back toward you and see if the transmission shifts any better.

http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/suz/508c8a1af8700220a8312253/gear-shifting-model-k5-k6-k7

18 SHAFT, GEAR SHIFT

While you're looking behind the countershaft sprocket cover, you can lube the clutch release mechanism.

SV650's have a really Mickey Mouse clutch release mechanism.

http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/suz/508b29f7f8700235307245ca/clutch

17 SCREW ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE

You're supposed to remove the clutch release assembly and clean the old grease out of it every 5000 miles or so and repack it with Suzuki Assembly Lubricant, which is a very thick molybdenum disulphide paste.

It's much thicker and stiffer than high temperature wheel bearing grease used around disk brakes

The Mickey Mouse clutch release assembly doesn't have a worm gear inside, there are just several tiny steel balls following grooves in a sheet metal sleeve that is going to wear out and get even sloppier.

When you rig out your clutch cable you should have 15 to 20 mm of distance between the ball on the end of the lever and the handlebar grip.

When you reinstall the clutch release assembly, the clutch cable and the arm should have an angle of slightly more than 90 degrees between them.

Turn the adjustment screw all the way in until it just stops turning, then back it out 1/4 of a turn and tighten the lock nut.

If the transmission is still clunky and resists shifting turn the idle speed down to 1200~1250 RPM instead of 1300 and see if that helps.

The idle adjustment screw is on the left hand side of the frame, you can see it through the triangular hole... I tend to set it at 15mm because the bike feels better as I roll up to a stop if the clutch is dragging just a tiny bit.
 
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