Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner

21 - 40 of 112 Posts

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Okay! update time.

So.. my truck threw a rod about two weeks ago... and blew a hole in the side of the engine. this is the result:

so i spent the next two weeks searching for a replacement. the plan was to buy a $500 car (which is what i could afford...) my parents said that they wanted to use some of the money they set aside for my college (which i never used as i got a full ride) to get me a new truck. (so they could use it too!) anyway.. so i found and purchased this:

So now with money in the bank and a car sale pending, i can get back to work.

here is the 01 R6 radiator that i got to replace the stock one:

I won some F2 front brake calipers on ebay for $0.99 + $12 shipping.. and when the box arrived it contained this:

Front brake calipers
rear brake caliper
Master cylinder
Clutch lever and cable
Left clip-on controls and choke cables
Right clip-on controls (no ignition)
Front sprocket cover

all in all worth the $12 :LolLolLolLol:

So, now i need to figure out which bearings to buy so that i can put the bike back together. Any help here would be appreciated.

So that is:

L 11111


And for the pistons:
1 B2
2 B2
3 B1
4 B1

Which bearings do i need? i am pretty sure i need:
rod bearings: 2 brown 2 green
cranshaft: 4 yellow 1 pink

can i get confirmation on that?

Then.. i did some cleaning. this was the area around thre sprocket.. very cruddy

More to come!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Okay... got the engine parts ordered... so now i have to get the engine ready to re-assemble.

first i had to clean the case... which was a real pain. the skin is still missing on most of my knuckles. (sorry for the crappy cell-phone pic)

masked off:


Covers and accents get VHT gold... (the front of the oil cooler is the main engine color... i dont know if it will stay that way)

and the basic color scheme:

Also got the calipers cleaned, sand blasted, and painted. i did the Nissin emblems in black.. but didnt get a picture.

Also, i think i may have figured about a major source of oil/coolant contamination. This is one of the collars and 0-rings going between the oil cooler and main engine... replacements have been ordered.

well hopefully i will have more to show you soon. once the bearings come in i can start putting things back together.


1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
hey yall!
been doing a little work...

first off, i am going to need to make a new header as i would like to have the Jardine can under the engine. for that purpose i got a 954 header for $9 on ebay. yeah $9 that was nice. anyway i am hoping to modify it to fir the F2 or use the beautiful curvy pipes to make a custom header.

i also got the 2" pipe 4-1 collector in the mail.

Then... i got bored. I cant actually do any work on the motor till i get the parts from CheapCycleParts (and it is taking forever) so i decided to use some of the war weather to do some composite work.


I got the tank dents all worked out and the sprayed it with primer. Some wet-sanding to get it smooth and then a gentle cleaning with soap and water. as with painting, in order to get a good end product you have to do your prep well.

So... #1 clean the surface you are going to bond to.

then.. #2 you cut your overlay material to size. this keeps you from wasting valuable time and material while your resin is mixed.
in this case i am using carbon

then, #3 you make sure that alllll your stuff is in order. that means brushes, gloves, solvent,
or anything else you spread that resin. (no pic.. sorry)

#4 Coat the entire surface FIRST. this allow you to get better adhesion as well as giving the cloth something to "stick" to. (keeps the pattern pretty too)
my hands were messy, so no pic of this stage. imagine a primer colored tank covered in resin

#5 lay the cloth down and smooth it evenly (symmetrically too if possibly) so that it stick to the surface. the resin i was using had a pot life of 12 minutes so i got my sister to help lay the resin. (this is why preparation is key)

#6 brush the rest of the resin on the smoothes cloth and continue to monitor how well it is adhering to the curves of the part. certain areas will want to pull away or bubble... just just brush it back down. the resin in the fabric will take longer to set up that in the mixing cup (due to the volume)
so here you go...

you are done.... sorta

you wil want to trim the excess off before it cures too long. You can cut it off with scissors with a low layer count and semi-hardened resin (prolly your best bet) then... put another layer of resin on. and it looks like this:

Now... if you want to make something not stick, you would do what i did for the undertail panel

#1 prep/clean... just make sure it is smooth and clean.. ( i have also added material extending past the edges to make sure i get all of the part that i want, no ragged edges.)

#2 Wax. i use car wax first, then after buffing that out, i use some bowling ally wax. works great. technically at this pint you could put resin on it and it would most likely not stick, but use some PVA (poly vinyl Alcohol) and that will make sure it doesnt stick.

#3 Cut you material.. this time you have to cut your layers. depending on how thick/heavy/flexible you want it.. cut out your layers. I used i thin layer of carbon one very heavy layer, three heavy fiberglass (for thickness and expense) and one more thin carbon fiber.

#4 Get ready.. materials layers "mold"

#5 Now, you want to mix the resin and again, apply the resin first to the "mold" then lay your first layer of glass or carbon. this is the most important as it is the one that you will see (usually.. ) then, smooth the cloth down spreading the resin through it evenly. repeat for each layer.

i didnt leave those glops of resin on there.. i promise.

again, i apologize for lack of pictures. messy hands. i have more stuff to do, more pictures to come.

#6 let it cure before attempting to remove it. i really wanted to try and take the part off as soon as it looked cure. DONT DO IT! until the resin has fully cure (overnight is usually good) even if you manage to remove the part successfully without destroying it, your part can warp or deform after removal.

save yourself some heartache go drink a beer find someone better looking than yourself to hit on, and come back later. (i'll have pictures of that part overnight =D)

Then, i came home to my hottie, and found out that my parts cam in! $275 worth of parts? looks kinda pathetic if you ask me.

anyway, till next time yall!
thanks for reading.

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
i also have more pictures!
the undertail is cured:

It came right off the waxed mold:

Weight comparison:
Steel 22 gauge

Carbon fiber 3 layers of carbon 3 of fiberglass

I still have some trimming and fitting to do

I also got started sanding the tank

more pictures soon!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
finally got some pictures up!

I rebuilt the brakes...

The old vs. new oil cooler collars/o-rings

installed the undertail (it still need a bit of final trimming)

and sanded the tank.. hello lung failure

all down to 220 and i have almost all the low spots out.

And.... i had to put a bit of clear on there to see how it turned out. looking better! :rock:

well i am hoping to get some more done tommorow. i finally got some plasti-gauge, so i hope to start putting the engien back together, and i also am getting the tail ready for CF

more later!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Oh.. and i have some engine rebuild pictures.

the first thing to go back in was the transmission. everything was cleaned up and gorgious.

then, because it is a pain to do it with the pistons installed, i checked all the connecting rod bearings with plastigauge to make sure that there was the proper oil clearance on the new bearings.

now.. the way to do that is this:
first... you figure out what size you need. then you buy it (i recommend using money for this, but... gold coins work as well)

Then you cut a section roughly the width of the crankshaft journal corresponding to the connecting rod, and lay it across it.

Then, install your connecting rod, and trying not to rotate it on the journal, torque the bolts down to the specified amount. For these it was 19 ft-lbs.

then carefully remove the connecting rod trying not to turn it. when you pull it off, you should see some smushed plastic; measure this with the gauge provided.

all my connecting rod bearings were right in the middle of spec, so i the proceeded to repeat the process with the crankshaft.

All the bearings were also in spec, so i proceeded to install the pistons.
here they are, all clean.

had to check the new rings for the proper end gap, which they all did

Installed the rings

Installed the pistons

Then, i removed the crankshaft and cleaned all the bearing surfaces very thoroughly and made sure not to touch them with my bare fingers (this is a no-no apparently) and then liberally applied Lucas assembly lube to the bearings and journals (it helps to eliminate dry starts) then bolted the connecting rods to the crankshaft and torqued the bolts down.

Now that the pistons were in it was time to put the crankcases back together. I applied Ultra Black (which is actually gray) gasket maker to the correct areas of the crankcases made sure everything lined up, and put that sucker together. I dont have any pictures of the sealant as i had to work quickly. I then bolted the case halves together in the specified order.

Here you have the cases back together, and with the alternator cover on for show

More to come! the hard part is done.
thanks for reading!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
and now i have an update...

I put in the transmission shift dogs first as the transmission shafts are in.

then put in the shift drum, alligning the tabs on the transmission forks.

then slide the pin through the forks... and the transmission is done. all of this is with some Lucas assembly lube.

then put in the alternator rotor

and transferred the coil to the new cover

rebuilt the starter and added some bling

added the cam chain and rear guard

then i found out that the gear shift spindle was bent and had been badly repaired.

scored a new one on ebay for $7 just have to wait for it to arrive

cleaned and reassembled the oil pump


engine shot..

body shot...

okay... this sounds reallly funny, but what ties the crankshaft to the transmission?! i mean they dont connect in any way right now... what ties them together?

thanks so much for reading!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
and... i have a small update as well.

i got the water pump installed. new o-rings all around. not sure i like the black yet.

Got the oil cooler together and installed. New seals, o-rings and collars. still not sure if the black is what i want.. maybe if it was flatter... but i really didnt want EVERY cover to be gold. it just becomes too much.

then i started playing around with the header. as it turns out the 954 header is Titanium... which foils my plans of welding them myself. it also turns out just about no-one welds titanium, but did find a freind of a freind who would weld it up for me. could be pricy though.

the plan is to weld the pipes back onto the stock flange (so i have to get the pipes in the right spacing and flatness), and then make a steel flange to mate to it. that flange will have the collector and the inlet pipe on it. well.. you know what they say about the plans of men...

I am not sure that the angle of the pipes is quite right.. but then i dont have the oil pan and it isnt in the bike... so once i get them close.. that is the next step.

gonna hopefully get the molds made for the tail this week while i wait for parts. i put all the covers on the engine to keep the dust out, and will most likely cover it with a tarp.

thanks for looking!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Hey yall
I did a good bit over the long weekend, and i will prolly take two posts.

I got to work, and started by sanding and polishing the tail in prep for laying the mold.

Then made a template for the splitter-plate

Transferred that onto Masonite

I used bondo to hold it on the tail.

The used clay to fill in any gaps the bondo left.

Figured out what shape of cloth i needed then cut out all my layers. One layer of very light glass, three medium weight and one heavy layer.

I got everything ready, and then l brushed on the first layer of resin

the first layer of glass going on... the light glass cloth is very flexible and transparent making it easy to spot defects, and usually leaves fewer flaws.

And... all 5 layers on and dry

Splitter plate removed and ready for the second part. I wax and release the whole thing, the fiberglass flange too.

Side two layed up

Now i am trying to get the parts off, you can see here that the whole part is still stuck to the tail except fro right at the split where i have been prying at it.

Now after working at it, you can see how the whole part has separated from the tail.

Side one off

Both parts off and bolted together. (the wholes were drilled while it was still on the tail

And here you can see i have started working on adding some radii to the part so it will match the tank a little more.

thanks for watching...
more to come soon

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I also worked on the side-covers.

I got the parts ready and did the final body work before spraying them with primer, sanding and polishing them

Figured out what the cloth needed to look like

then cut out all the layers, ready to lay up

Got everything set-up and ready

Here is one side laid up and curing

And the mold removed... still needs a little clean-up

now i am just getting all the molds ready to make real carbon parts.
that is next...
thanks for looking

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
i ran into a bit of a snag...

I got the mold sanded, and bondo'ed then i sprayed a little primer in there to help me see what i was doing.

The primer goes into all the dips and mistakes...

so then i sanded it smooth (this goes for both sides)

a little bit more primer, and sanded to 1200 grit, then 4-5 coats of wax, bolted together then PVA. in other words, ready to lay up the carbon.

I had all my peices cut out and ready to go...

And then.. disaster struck. I had already practiced laying up the carbon inside the mold with the brown paper templates, but with the resin, the cloth was unmanageable.... so i ended up cutting the peices in half and laying the parts up sperately.

This will add a step, but the parts will be better.
so... they cured, and before removing them, i used a razor to mark the exact edge of the mold on the part.

then i popped them both out

I trimmed them to the line, and viola! here is the tail. (it is going to need some sanding.. dont worry, the red will come off)

so then, i will bolt the parts back together and run carbon down the seam.

The benifit with this is that i will do twill for the next tail, and it will look even better with a seam down the middle. i can get the pattern to mirror itself.

I also got the side-covers done.
Molds ready for carbon

and then all laid up

anyway.. i will post pictures as soon as the resin cures.

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Good morning yall!
well... my brother came home this weekend. He was spent 8 months training for the military, so some time WAS spent hanging out, but at the same time... i did get some work done.

I roughed up the surface where i would be laying up, re-released the molds and then bolted them together again.

then i cut the cloth mixed the resin and laid the cloth down over the seam. I used gracually wider strips of cloth starting with something only about 3/8" wide and ending up with about 3" wide. about 5 layers.

I also put another layer of Carbon on the side covers to make them a little siffer.

So then, the next day i took it out of the mold and cleaned up the join line. The part is extremely rigid... and light. 0.7 lbs to be exact.

and compared to some of the stuff that i cut off the tail...

Likewise i cleaned up the side covers...

And the flimsy steel counterpart...

so... i guess you want to see it all together. (i know i did)

Side covers need some tweaking.

And... playing around with the headlight. the ignition mount needs to be trimmed off the triple, and the front fairing stay bracket needs to go, so that it will fit right. this is too high, but safety wire is only so good.

anyway... this tail will be a pilot then a back-up. I will fit it to the subframe, weld on the mounting tabs, and then transfer the final shape back to the mold, so i will have a clean part what is ready to bolt on. I have also learned alot of things that i can apply to the final tail. And i will still have a back-up should something happen to final part. (plus i will still have the molds)

thanks for looking!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
i do have an update.. but sadly it is hard to fit body work to the motorcycle when you dont have he motorcycle in front of you, however, i have been able to use my time well and am halfway through doing the valves.

But first, i do have a question. I know people buy shim kits, nothing in the Haynes manual says anything about fitting, replacing or measuring the shims... what am i missing? i am going to re-lap the valves, so i would assume it is necessary.

Okay to jump right in.

here is the head with the valves in (i took two out before realizing i needed this picture)

Then i rigged up my handy dandy very expensive special tooling

the clamp has a round piece of soft metal on the bottom to contact the face of the valve, and then uses the piece of pipe to compress the spring retainer but not the followers so i can use a pair of tweezers and get them out, freeing the valve.

As you remove the valves, make sure you keep them not only separate but labeled so that you can put them back in the correct spot. I used bags. it also allowed me to record the valves stem diameter as well as the inner and outer spring free length to see if they were in tolerance.

Then i cleaned up the valves (making sure to keep them in separate)

after about 1 min on the wire wheel:

so today i am hoping to clean the head, lap the valves and if possible, get them back in.

thanks for looking!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
I did finish the valve job, and have some pictures.

these are the surfaces that the valves seal against, and what will be lapped mostly.

So you use some coarse lapping compound and apply it to the valve like so:

and, being very careful to not get any compound on the valve step, install the valve in the head. I used a peice of rubber hose to rotate the valve while pulling it against the face.

this is a valve that had been lapped.

installing them back in...

all cleaned up and put back together. i cleaned out the ports as well.. just wasnt able to get a good picture.

and then a few other random things...

I got a new power source

started a radiator overflow reservoir out of a past bike... I snapped this off on a gaurdrail. sheared clean at the lower triple, and it has been floating around. it means i dont have to cut threads for a cap.

I also got the tail trimmed and fitted. unfortunately the placement of the tail-light changed a little bit, so i have to figure out how to re-weld the bracket inside while completely blind.

I cant decide, i can make the tail-light flush; like this:

or, i can make it protrude slightly. it kinda breaks up the flow a little bit, but also looks cool. sorry, no picture i will update with pictures tonight.

thanks so much for looking and helping!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
trying to keep it up:

Gas-cap fitted

tail-light re-installed (this was a major pain in the butt)

and put the engine in:

Well... it was so nice to see everything together.. that i just had to throw on all i could. that and i really wanted to see what kind of angle i am going to need to cut the Ti headers to..

I put on my F2 radiator... as i dont know that my r6 radiator is going to work.. but the F2 radiator is pretty rusty and i dont want to contaminate the new engine. ideas?

Its a tall ride right now, but i am going to change that some with the new swinger.

it is the first time it has actually looked like a motorcycle.. so.. a few more pics

thanks for lookin!

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Not much time to work on the bike since we got the new house... been working on getting the garage into workable shop.

did some photo-chopping for paint-jobs...
some of the final contestants

Also was given a 900rr swinger and wheel. gonna have to figure out the suspension mount..

a 180/55/17 vs 160/60/17

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
I'm not a fabricator, but I'd start by getting the swinger and wheel mocked up in place so you can start taking some measurements. See how far out-of-center the wheel is, and then look at stuff like the wheel spacers and the swingarm pivot to figure out where you'll be best able to remove some material on one side, and add more on the other to get your wheel lined up. If you're lucky, you might only need to modify wheel spacers.
a very good plan. i will try and get working on it as soon as i have some room in the garage.

i got some measurements and pictures last night.

the swingarm has been modified already, but it looks like just one side...

width of the 900rr swinger: roughly 9.625"

Stock swinger: roughly 9.125"

another guy put this swinger in his F2 and said he, "took 3/8 inch off each side" so since the one side has been tweaked already, i will have to adjust. 9.625-6.125=0.5 0.5-0.375=0.125 so i will take 0.125" off on the tweaked side and the full .375" on the untouched side.

looking at the inside of the frame there may be room to shave if necessary, then make spacers to center the wheel if needed. some bronze spacers perhaps?

stock linkage should be transferable.

so now i just need to get things in the garage figured out, so that i can actually work on this.

Oh, and i just got access to a vaccum pump, so i am going to be re-making the sidecovers, and then making the final tail.

1,477 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
small update here. the garage is becoming more work-able by the day. i have all the power run and almost all the lights. i hope to be finished soon.

I got my paint...

and the blue-green shift pearl

I also made the headlight bracket clamps...

I cant decide whether to lave them as brushed aluminum or to anodize them or paint them... what do you think?
21 - 40 of 112 Posts