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Clean and Simple CBR600 Build

270K views 1K replies 210 participants last post by  Knifemaker87 
#1 ·
hey yall!

This thread is copped from another forum till i reach it's current condition, then i will be updating it.

As soon as i "finished" fixing my SV i was really hankering to work on something new, and do a bit more real customizing, so i picked this bike up for $660.

I am starting with a 93 cbr600 f2 in kind of pitiful condition. I had a bunch of stock parts to sell so that put some money into my pocket that came right back out to get new parts

Picked it up from another forum member for $660. here is what it looked like when i got it:






Here I have labeled and removed the wire harness:

Removed all the hardware:

Bought some new parts:

and gotten the bike ready to pull the carbs. and drop the engine:


i have a GSXR 750 seat in the mail now, as well as an integrated tail-light. going for something like this (minus the bellypan):
steel and carbon fiber subframe and bodywork. hopefully i have hide some of the wiring (and a smaller battery) in there


more to come
thanks
~Chris
 
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#2 ·
hey everybody!

got to my parents house at noon, and pulled the engine out:


so now i have a roller:


Then when i put the engine on the bench a bunch of coolant AND OIL came out of the water pump. i am hoping that is a gasket problem, but am afraid there might be some damage inside the engine


so then... i cut all this stuff off the frame.


Started on the subframe:


I have templates for the bottom section of the subframe, and will then start on the tail, but currently it looks like this:



well.. i am going to get to work on it again on monday, and should get the tail mocked up.
thanks!
~Chris
 
#3 ·
another update here...
so on memorial day i got over to my parents house after sending the wife off to work... People still eat on holidays... :nuts:
anyway... i got to work on the lower subframe.

I used some thin steel angle i picked up out of a dumpster somewhere to make the parts, and welded them together like this:


so i wont bore you with the pictures, but i welded those up, there were four of them, and the cutting grinding welding (and subsequent re-welding) took almost all day. However, i didnt know the angle was cadmium coated.. which is great for corrosion resistance, but not so great for welding...

anyway... when i was done, had to sets of these:


they were a pain in the butt to keep symmetrical and the angles right, but i finally got them where i wanted them, and welded them up:


cleaned up the weld and the parts with a scotch-brite belt on my grinder:


then they were ready for mounting, here one is on..


My wife gives me a hard time for "grinding" on my motorcycle.. when she found out that i was mounting its rear-end....:rock:

here they are both mostly welded up, semi symmetrical :oops: and ready for the tail. what do you think?


and a side view with the seat on:


Now, after i put the tail on, i am going to use carbon fiber honeycomb for the undertail, and i want to leave some room to hide the wiring, so i am planning that out now.

thanks!
~Chris
 
#4 ·
hey guys!
small update here; got some parts... expensive parts. i sold all mu stuff for these
Omnia Racing headlight $200
Koso digital gauge $175



Also, i started investigating the innards of the engine. I took off the Oil cooler cover (i think that is what it is) and found this:



After getting the very corroded bolts out, i got the oil cooler off.



is that much corrosion normal? what is supposed to go where? i was expecting to find oil inside of the cooler. help would be appreciated

and also.. as an aside.. here is what i am working on at work. i have to make 64 of these steel parts where the largest dimension is the diameter at 0.092 inches. the drill is for the hole going horizontally through the part... and it is only 0.075 inches long! the drill is just under 0.020 inches in dia. how many of those do you think i will break?




Rock on yall!
~Chris
 
#5 ·
Well.... i did some work!
I decided rather than going with a heavier gauge steel, i would build a tubular frame from teh tail and use 22 gauge steel (plus it is cheaper!) so.. i cut it to rough shape on the shear at work.
Here is a picture of just sheared, and finished product


I shaped one piece (per side) till i was happy with it, then i used it as a template for the other piece to get the right shape and speed up the grinding:


Lots and LOTS of checking with tape before welding:


I started with one side till i was happy with it, then copied the sheet metal for the opposite side. keeping it symmetrical was a constant battle:



once i was happy with it, i welded some support in there, and then tack welded it in:



Sorry there are no daylight pictures.. i will get those today.
My taillight fits in there nicely though:


The Koso too:


By then it was about 9:30pm.. too late to be doing noisy stuff, so i took off the water pump... ew! check out the oil/coolant mixture that leaked out on the table:

Ordered a much better condition pump today off ebay.

then.. at 10pm my parents "kicked me out" so that was the end of D any W. alas.
Another update later tonight...
thanks for looking!
~Knife
 
#6 ·
here is a profile shot during the day... okay two shots



now... that is not actually correct, as the top peice for the tail is wrong. So it will be similar.. but not the same.

small update here...

Got a good bit of work done, but it doesn't look like it. spent the evening yesterday welding the tail section up, grinding and sanding, as well as putting in some reinforcements. (then i didn't take a good picture of the cleaned up tail.. :confused:



Anyway.. then i tried to fit in the top section, but to no avail. the kicker is, i want the top to be removable, so i can access the electronics and battery i plan to stash in there, and i want it to be carbon fiber. so i screwed around with that.. and ended up discarding the first attempt. FAIL

Anyway... i cut out a new cardboard part and will cut it out today. then i got on my hands and knees and started working on the side panels, which also have to be removable so i can get my seat off, and run the wire harness. yay. anyway... here is what i came up with:




now.. those parts will be transferred to steel stock:


i will shear those out, grind then bend and fit. once i have them tacked in place, i will figure out how to bolt them on. once that is accomplished i will remove them, clean them up and set them aside as they will be replicated in carbon fiber eventually.

and then i got off my hands and knees... ate a home-made cookie (who said there wern't benefits to working and mom's house?) and went home.

more friday!
thanks
~Chris
 
#9 ·
thanks! we will see where it goes.

You probably know this and I can't see very clearly, but when joining the sheet metal use a series of tacks and skip around a lot. Too much time in one place will let the heat build up and warp that assembly. In other words don't try to run a traditional bead.

Interesting project, thanks for sharing.
thanks for the advice. Yeah... i normally tack weld it and the alternate filling in between the tack welds switching back and forth so as to lessen the warping.
thanks!
~Chris
 
#8 ·
You probably know this and I can't see very clearly, but when joining the sheet metal use a series of tacks and skip around a lot. Too much time in one place will let the heat build up and warp that assembly. In other words don't try to run a traditional bead.

Interesting project, thanks for sharing.
 
#24 ·
Wow. Great fabrication work. It's looking really nice. Interesting to see how it turns out.

btw did you take into account the effects of welding? Not saying it's going to break or anything but from my experience the brittleness can cause problems in areas that see constant shock loads. Built a formula style race car at UW and had to heat treat everything after welding or it'd be incredibly brittle.
 
#28 ·
hey
thanks so much! i did alot of reading and scanning of build thread in order to get what littler bearings i have. But we will see how it progresses. the hardest part is figuring out what order will not make the next step harder.

I do have an update too.. small in size as i had a small hiccup... when i made the templates for the side-covers and the tail, i didnt have the seat in the proper position, so my templates were off. so the first order of business was the secure the seat.

Then, before i could work on the tail cap, i needed to finalize the "front" part of the tail, so, i did got that welded up: (and you can see part of the seat securing)



Now, i am having trouble fitting the cap as it has to both be removable, symmetrical and leave enough room to fit the tail-light.. this is the idea.. but just not good enough. i will weld in the tail-light first, then fit the tail.


then i started work on the side covers:


the problem is... these have to be removable too, and secure.


I also got the Jardine can in the mail. got this Titanium can for $40 on ebay... gonna try and mount it under the engine by shortening the can and the header.


anyway, i should have another update after working tonight
i want to get the side covers and tail on.

thanks for looking!
~Chris
 
#37 ·
Few blurry pictures of the frame / car with a coooooool video showing a little of the manufacturing.
Go Dawgs!!

not sure how much they cost but an easy way to do quick access panels that are secure is with camloc fasteners (or something similar) we used them on airplanes in the AF so they can withstand some high speeds at least.
What did you work on? When you first linked to the camloc stuff, I thought they were going to be the quick access push button locks used on commonly accessed stuff like oil filler doors, rescue panels, etc, wasn't quite expecting what was in that PDF.
 
#33 ·
not sure how much they cost but an easy way to do quick access panels that are secure is with camloc fasteners (or something similar) we used them on airplanes in the AF so they can withstand some high speeds at least. might take a little work to put in something to mount the backing plates to but if you're like me and never leave the house without a leatherman they're easy to get into.

http://www.afscamloc.net/xua/downloads/Camloc%20Quick%20Release%20Fasteners.pdf
 
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