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Clean and Simple CBR600 Build

270K views 1K replies 210 participants last post by  Knifemaker87 
#1 ·
hey yall!

This thread is copped from another forum till i reach it's current condition, then i will be updating it.

As soon as i "finished" fixing my SV i was really hankering to work on something new, and do a bit more real customizing, so i picked this bike up for $660.

I am starting with a 93 cbr600 f2 in kind of pitiful condition. I had a bunch of stock parts to sell so that put some money into my pocket that came right back out to get new parts

Picked it up from another forum member for $660. here is what it looked like when i got it:






Here I have labeled and removed the wire harness:

Removed all the hardware:

Bought some new parts:

and gotten the bike ready to pull the carbs. and drop the engine:


i have a GSXR 750 seat in the mail now, as well as an integrated tail-light. going for something like this (minus the bellypan):
steel and carbon fiber subframe and bodywork. hopefully i have hide some of the wiring (and a smaller battery) in there


more to come
thanks
~Chris
 
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#109 ·
Hurry up-dont leave me hanging. Took me a whole cup of coffee to read this thread.

Nice work. I dont have the patience to do that. i had to replace a fan motor switch in the engine compartment of my explorer the other night and a 20 minute job took me 2 hours because of my big hands and lack of patience.
 
#112 ·
i sure hope so!

been doing a little work...

first off, i am going to need to make a new header as i would like to have the Jardine can under the engine. for that purpose i got a 954 header for $9 on ebay. yeah $9 that was nice. anyway i am hoping to modify it to fir the F2 or use the beautiful curvy pipes to make a custom header.


i also got the 2" pipe 4-1 collector in the mail.

Then... i got bored. I cant actually do any work on the motor till i get the parts from CheapCycleParts (and it is taking forever) so i decided to use some of the war weather to do some composite work.

:thumbsup:

I got the tank dents all worked out and the sprayed it with primer. Some wet-sanding to get it smooth and then a gentle cleaning with soap and water. as with painting, in order to get a good end product you have to do your prep well.

So... #1 clean the surface you are going to bond to.

then.. #2 you cut your overlay material to size. this keeps you from wasting valuable time and material while your resin is mixed.
in this case i am using carbon


then, #3 you make sure that alllll your stuff is in order. that means brushes, gloves, solvent,
or anything else you spread that resin. (no pic.. sorry)

#4 Coat the entire surface FIRST. this allow you to get better adhesion as well as giving the cloth something to "stick" to. (keeps the pattern pretty too)
my hands were messy, so no pic of this stage. imagine a primer colored tank covered in resin

#5 lay the cloth down and smooth it evenly (symmetrically too if possibly) so that it stick to the surface. the resin i was using had a pot life of 12 minutes so i got my sister to help lay the resin. (this is why preparation is key)




#6 brush the rest of the resin on the smoothes cloth and continue to monitor how well it is adhering to the curves of the part. certain areas will want to pull away or bubble... just just brush it back down. the resin in the fabric will take longer to set up that in the mixing cup (due to the volume)
so here you go...



you are done.... sorta

you wil want to trim the excess off before it cures too long. You can cut it off with scissors with a low layer count and semi-hardened resin (prolly your best bet) then... put another layer of resin on. and it looks like this:



Now... if you want to make something not stick, you would do what i did for the undertail panel

#1 prep/clean... just make sure it is smooth and clean.. ( i have also added material extending past the edges to make sure i get all of the part that i want, no ragged edges.)

#2 Wax. i use car wax first, then after buffing that out, i use some bowling ally wax. works great. technically at this pint you could put resin on it and it would most likely not stick, but use some PVA (poly vinyl Alcohol) and that will make sure it doesnt stick.



#3 Cut you material.. this time you have to cut your layers. depending on how thick/heavy/flexible you want it.. cut out your layers. I used i thin layer of carbon one very heavy layer, three heavy fiberglass (for thickness and expense) and one more thin carbon fiber.

#4 Get ready.. materials layers "mold"

#5 Now, you want to mix the resin and again, apply the resin first to the "mold" then lay your first layer of glass or carbon. this is the most important as it is the one that you will see (usually.. ) then, smooth the cloth down spreading the resin through it evenly. repeat for each layer.

i didnt leave those glops of resin on there.. i promise.


again, i apologize for lack of pictures. messy hands. i have more stuff to do, more pictures to come.

#6 let it cure before attempting to remove it. i really wanted to try and take the part off as soon as it looked cure. DONT DO IT! until the resin has fully cure (overnight is usually good) even if you manage to remove the part successfully without destroying it, your part can warp or deform after removal.

save yourself some heartache go drink a beer find someone better looking than yourself to hit on, and come back later. (i'll have pictures of that part overnight =D)

Then, i came home to my hottie, and found out that my parts cam in! $275 worth of parts? looks kinda pathetic if you ask me.


anyway, till next time yall!
thanks for reading.
~Chris
 
#117 ·
hey guys! thanks so much for the kind words! i do definatly plan on finishing the bike. i have nothing to ride! so huge motivation there. Now that i have all the new parts, all i need to get is a torque wrench and plastigauge and it will be going back together.

I thought that yall would like the Carbon! *grins* i personally really like the look on the tank and it adds extra protection too as it has been repaired with Bondo.

Raab; you said "I really think you should campaign this bike to the big mags as a feature. You've really got something here."

You mean like the magazines? *grins* the only thing with that is i see so much better and more professional work going on. but if you know somebody i guess i would be okay with it.. =)

I'll be posting more pictures tonight!
thanks again
 
#118 ·
Raab; you said "I really think you should campaign this bike to the big mags as a feature. You've really got something here."

You mean like the magazines? *grins* the only thing with that is i see so much better and more professional work going on. but if you know somebody i guess i would be okay with it.. =)

I'll be posting more pictures tonight!
thanks again
Ha- wish I could help with some inside folks at the big publications, but I can't.

I really do think that if you packaged the build nicely in a "press kit" type arrangement and sent it to Motorcyclist, Sport Rider, etc someone would bite.

Of course, I say this not really knowing much about how all that works, and assuming the finished product will be as good as the build. ;D
 
#124 ·
The CF is stuck to the tank if I read it correctly.
Its just a wrap from what I can tell, making the whole tank CF would cost a lot more and would mostly be for weight issues, like racing, if I know anything about anything.
and we have a winner! yes. this is just a wrap. It means it LOOKS like a real carbon fiber tank, but keep shte strenth integrity (and waterproofness) of the steel tank.

i also have more pictures!
the undertail is cured:


It came right off the waxed mold:


Weight comparison:
Steel 22 gauge

Carbon fiber 3 layers of carbon 3 of fiberglass


I still have some trimming and fitting to do


I also got started sanding the tank


more pictures soon!
~Chris
 
#125 ·
Wow, I'm really digging the tank. It matches my helmet :D

I was really just asking because I'd seen a CF SV tank for sale here earlier in the summer. Sounded really cool, and honestly, I'd imagine going from a metal tank to CF would be a pretty significant weight saver (plus it looks great). I was just wondering if I was going to get to see how one was made on here.


Edit: While I'm thinking about it, if someone was going to do a CF tank, would you do something like a single layer on top, a single layer on bottom, then pull them off, spray the insides with some sort of plastic and epoxy them together, then add more layers for stiffness?

Still checking the thread every day. Great build.
 
#126 ·
there was a guy on here that had a tutorial or a link to a tutorial of a full blown tank. He made a 3 part mold. two sides, one bottom then used those to make a two part tank. top and bottom, glued together in a similar manner to the steel tank's soldering. sealed it, then he had to add the front mounts. i searched for the thread but cant seem to pin it down. it makes my stuff look like crap! it was gorgious

thanks for looking should have more stuff up tommorow.
~cHRIS
 
#130 ·
finally got some pictures up!

I rebuilt the brakes...


The old vs. new oil cooler collars/o-rings


installed the undertail (it still need a bit of final trimming)


and sanded the tank.. hello lung failure


all down to 220 and i have almost all the low spots out.


And.... i had to put a bit of clear on there to see how it turned out. looking better! :rock:


well i am hoping to get some more done tommorow. i finally got some plasti-gauge, so i hope to start putting the engien back together, and i also am getting the tail ready for CF

more later!
~Chris
 
#145 ·
thanks so much for the encouragement! and now....
i have an update...

I put in the transmission shift dogs first as the transmission shafts are in.


then put in the shift drum, alligning the tabs on the transmission forks.


then slide the pin through the forks... and the transmission is done. all of this is with some Lucas assembly lube.


then put in the alternator rotor


and transferred the coil to the new cover


rebuilt the starter and added some bling


added the cam chain and rear guard


then i found out that the gear shift spindle was bent and had been badly repaired.



scored a new one on ebay for $7 just have to wait for it to arrive

cleaned and reassembled the oil pump


Installed...


engine shot..


body shot...


okay... this sounds reallly funny, but what ties the crankshaft to the transmission?! i mean they dont connect in any way right now... what ties them together?

thanks so much for reading!
~Chris
 
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