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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking about doing the exhaust chop to my 2007 naked, but I have a lot of trepidation cutting on an essentially new motorcycle. I’m fairly confident that I can achieve a good clean cut on the outer stainless steel can, and clean and polish that edge to my satisfaction, but I’m concerned with the end cap. The stock can currently wraps over that end cap, but a chopped can will leave the end cap totally exposed. So, I’m concerned as to how that will look. I took a small magnet to verify that the outer can and end cap are stainless and was surprised to find a magnetic pull on that very outer edge..right where the can wraps around the end cap. Can anyone vouch that the end cap is 100% stainless, including the outer flared edge? I want to be sure that this end cap area can be polished up and not rust on me..thanks.
 

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There's a thread somewhere on here where some one wrapped the outer can around the end cap after making the chop. It's time-consuming, but doable.
 

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I did it by grinding off the roll on the end and slipping the the "guts" out. Keeping the tip attached to the insides is a neater way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I
did it by grinding off the roll on the end and slipping the the "guts" out. Keeping the tip attached to the insides is a neater way to do it.
Thanks..I understand that. But the question is.. after you got the end cap out, was the entire end cap stainless..can the part that is now exposed after grinding off the outer can look (polish and finish) just as nice as the area that is normally exposed? Why do I feel a magnetic pull on that outer roll edge? Is part of that end cap (tip) steel, rather than stainless steel? Can you see if a magnet will pull on your end cap outer edge?
 

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The pull was probably the four spot welds that keep the cap in place or it could be from the outter bafflel.
 

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I

Thanks..I understand that. But the question is.. after you got the end cap out, was the entire end cap stainless..can the part that is now exposed after grinding off the outer can look (polish and finish) just as nice as the area that is normally exposed? Why do I feel a magnetic pull on that outer roll edge? Is part of that end cap (tip) steel, rather than stainless steel? Can you see if a magnet will pull on your end cap outer edge?
There is the stainless endcap that you see and a bunch of reg steel internal baffle stuff you don't see. The endcap is attached to the internal stuff, so if you just grind off the roll, and release the 3 spot welds, it all slides out as one piece. IMO, keeping the cap attached gives it much more stability and doesn't require a number of pop rivets to keep it in place. (mine has a single small pin that's almost hidden)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so, after you got the end cap fully exposed, how does it look? Is the part that was under the original roll (of the can) look good..can it be polished...is it the same quality look at the rest of the outside. The magnet pull is coming off the roll edge..not from the baffle internals. I thought of that too. Can you show a good finish picture of the end cap flair edge?
 

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Scoobinator has some close up photo's of his riveted can somewhere, it looks pretty clean (better then the current rolled job on mine, on the list to fix).
 

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I cut my 07 down and welded it all back together. The fit is good enough to rivet it. if you would feel better you could buy some high temp caulking and put around the end befor you slide it back together and then rivet it. You can buy the high temp caulk at either home depot or lowes. I would post a pic but not sure how to get it from my pics to the site.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
SVDC, yes I would like to see any photos..again, I'm interested in knowing the condition of the outer rim area of the end cap. You can upload your photos to Photobucket and then attach the link to your message.
 

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here is two quick picks I took of mine.

Its an 06 and i did the chop about 5 months ago. The can gets a lot hotter now and turned kinda a bronze color. Not really a big deal is just not as sliver as it was originally.




 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yummycheese, Did you knock out the honeycomb web material, located at the front of the baffle? What exactly did you do to the internals..I'm wondering why it would run hotter? thanks
 

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Keeping the tip attached to the inner guts eliminates the need for a number of rivets. I have only a single small pin (from a Pop rivet) holding mine.

A couple pics of mine:



 
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