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Discussion Starter #1
So, my bike went dim on a long ride back to phoenix the other night. I am tearing into it and would like to verify my results.

1st the battery was low from being run down on the trip back. I hooked up car battery to the terminals to get a good know battery base.

2nd when the bike was running at idle the volts were reading 13-13.4. When I run it up to 5k rpms the voltange dropped to 12.5.

3rd I did the red wire - yellow wire voltage test onn the rectifier. I got a reading of .44-.47 on all three yellow wires which is in spec according to clymers. That should be a good rectifier.

I am pointing this at a bad stator. Do I just need to get the entire assembly or are there any other parts I should be aware of?
 

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where is Andyauger to see I am not only one measuring charging at idle :)
disconnect regulator from those 3 yellow wires, start bike and check AC voltage between 3 yellow wires coming out of engine. you should get around 70V. if yes stator is good.
 

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I got a reading of .44-.47 on all three yellow wires which is in spec according to clymers. That should be a good rectifier.
Looks like your rectifier is OK, but the regulator circuit of the rectifier/regulator could be bad.

In addition to the dynamic no load test suggested by Vee, you can do a static continuity test of the stator coils as shown here. Note engine should be cold during dynamic test.

The stator coils come as a single unit, $185.

 

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the regulator is what goes bad most often, it's inevitable, the regulator in the SV shunts excess energy to ground and dissapates the energy as heat

heat will eventually cook the semiconductors in the RR
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just my luck that I needed to do one more test on the rectifier after I put the plastics back on. Will do that test tomorrow, babys and Easter put a damper on the last couple days.

One other thing. It happened suddenly and dramaticly. I was riding, pulled off and gased up, as soon as I was rolling I had the speedo quit and the tach intermitantly. At least I had enough gas, but rolling without headlights across the desert gets a little dicey. It would come back like all was fine after some bumps, or if I stood up and dropped my but back on it hard enough. Does a sudden failure usually happen to one over the other?
 

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Sounds like maybe it's a loose battery terminal. Check the recent post, some just had a similar problem.
 

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Uh, the 12.5 volts at 5k rpm is usually a clear sign of a bad voltage R/R. I've had two bikes with this problem and a swap with a superior CBR1000 R/R fixed it both times. Look for the thread in the 1st Gen tech section for a detailed write up on the swap.

Oh, the problems with the bike dying are a side effect of the battery being weak. Until you fix that R/R, your battery will just get weaker and weaker. Even after you replace the R/R, you need to get the battery fully charged (using a charger). The charging system is designed to maintain a charge, not charge up a dead battery.
 

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It would come back like all was fine after some bumps, or if I stood up and dropped my but back on it hard enough. Does a sudden failure usually happen to one over the other?
Yea, I agree the regulator/rectifier could be the cause. Any guess on why the problem would go away after hitting bumps or dropping back hard on the seat?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So dead cold there was no voltage between the 2 parallel connectors and voltage was climbing up and beyond the 200 volts that my meter was set to. After the bike was running for a couple of minutes and was warm there was no voltage to be read anywere. I even brought out the nice one and it was only measuring .030 volts fluctuating. I am off to find a stator.
 

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Did you measure correctly? The service manual is a little vague. You said 2 parallel wires. There should be 3 yellow wires that you are measuring, right? You also need to be sure you are measuring on the generator side of the circuit, which is towards the front of the bike. You need to make sure you have your volt meter set to AC voltage as well and measure between each yellow wire, not to ground.
 

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So dead cold there was no voltage between the 2 parallel connectors and voltage was climbing up and beyond the 200 volts that my meter was set to. After the bike was running for a couple of minutes and was warm there was no voltage to be read anywere. I even brought out the nice one and it was only measuring .030 volts fluctuating. I am off to find a stator.
No comprendo what you are measuring there. Explain what wire colors, how meter was set, and if motor was running or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, scrap the previous post. I was measuring wrong. I retook the measurements in AC on the right side of the plug.

This time I tested here.


Going from the single plug to each of the parallel plugs it read 22-23 volts AC. Between the 2 parallel plugs it read 20-21 volts AC. This is telling me it is a bad stator I believe. Does this make more sense?

Edit to add volt measurement was taken with the bike running at 5k rpms. Was reading 2-3 volts at idle on all tests. All yellow wires.
 

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Going from the single plug to each of the parallel plugs it read 22-23 volts AC. Between the 2 parallel plugs it read 20-21 volts AC. This is telling me it is a bad stator I believe. Does this make more sense?

Edit to add volt measurement was taken with the bike running at 5k rpms. Was reading 2-3 volts at idle on all tests. All yellow wires.
no, it doesn't make sense, you sure you don't have your meter set to a scale where you double your readings ?
 

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Did you check the resistance of the coils as well? It is outlined in post #3 above. I don't think the generator failing is all that common. Add that to the fact that you are getting 13.5V at idle leads me to think you are just not measuring the AC voltage correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
OK I redid the voltage test on the motor cold again.

This is how I attached the leads.


I checked resistance and was way out of spec on 2 combos of wires. In the 5 and 7 ohms range. One was right in the middle of spec. I just want to make sure that I am doing it right and comparing resistance between the yellow wires. I tested against ground and got Over Load (or not continuous) results.

I redid the AC test as well on a stone cold bike and the voltage was reading at ~90. It is an auto gauge and doesn't have a scale that I have found to cause wrong readings.






I am here and willing. I appreciate all the great help, just let me know what I need to test next.
 

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the first SV RR I had fail was very hard to diagnose, it was only failing intermittently, for the first half hour of riding, it would work ok, it recharged during a short trip, BUT most of the time, I ride till I have to stop for gas, after about 1/2 hour, the alternator would barely put out, and the battery would slowly discharge

after the RR cooled down, and recharged the battery again with a charger, then it would work again testing perfect until it (the RR, not the engine) overheated
 

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If you numbered the yellow leads 1,2, and 3, did you do 3 separate tests connecting the meter to 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3? They all should read over 70 volts ac at 5000rpm. Are the test lead clamps touching the copper of the wires? Your pics look kind of funky. If you did those tests and got 89 volts on all 3 then the stator reads ok and you should get a new R/R.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you numbered the yellow leads 1,2, and 3, did you do 3 separate tests connecting the meter to 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3? They all should read over 70 volts ac at 5000rpm. Are the test lead clamps touching the copper of the wires? Your pics look kind of funky. If you did those tests and got 89 volts on all 3 then the stator reads ok and you should get a new R/R.
The test probes have a little spike that pierces the outer cover and hits the wire. I started using them when I was putting in car alarms, they work great. I tested exactly as you outline. This time when the bike was cold they tested fine at 90ish. When I tested earlier today they tested out at 22-23 volts. I had the meter set the same both times. I don't know what to think.

I mostly would like to get this together for a track day this weekend. With the light off and a charger going between sessions I think I should be OK for a half day, but I would like to get it right.

I have a used cycle parts shop near me and they open back up tomorrow. I am going to get the upgraded rectifier and try that. I will need one soon enough anyway that it is not wasted money. If I still need a stator after that, so be it. It is what it is. This is my first time playing around with motorcycle charging systems. They are definately interesting!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Put on a new (used) rectifier. They didn't have a cbr1000, but they had a sv unit. It now reads 13.9 at idle and 13.25 at 5k rpms at the battery on a cold bike. This is still low, but better, maybe the new one is on its way out as well?

Once the baby is in bed and I can get a minute I will warm up the bike and see how it reads.
 
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