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Time for my ?03 650?s very first front brake-pad change. I?d like to get some educated opinions on this.

Is it a job I could probably do myself, or is it one of those things where you just have to take it to the shop to do unless you have a really well stocked garage? I change my own oil, I?ve switched the handlebars myself, and I?ve done some tinkering with the headlight wiring, but I don?t think I could do something like changing a tire (for lack of a center stand and tire balancer).

If it?s something I can do myself: Does anyone remember that webpage that got posted here a few months ago? It was a ?how-to? on all sorts of motorcycle maintenance tasks, with step-by-step pictures. And it was ?narrated? by a little plastic drill sergeant doll. Did anyone save the link to that? Or know of any other how-to guide online to walk me through brake pads?

Thanks for any advice on the matter.
 

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easier than changing your oil. i think all you need is a pair of pliers, maybe a wrench, and a domestic beer. i THINK you can leave your wheel on when doing this.
 

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1) Get a service manual
2) Get a set of EBC HH compound brake pads
3) Get a bottle of good 5.1 (NOT 5.0) racing type brake fluid (don't be afraid to pay 5$ for that)
4) Change your pads and bleed you brakes like they say in the service manual.

It easy to do, and I prefer to bleed the brakes with the wheel on the ground.
 

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If you are going to run 5.1 you have to MAKE SURE that ALL of the old brake fluid is out. It's almost impossible to get it all out without re-doing the seals in the calipers. For street riding and even a few track days you don't need 5.1 - only racers can really use the benefits of 5.1. It's up to you though. you don't want to mix them though.

Yes, you can change the brakes without taking the wheel off. It's easy.
 

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RedAggie, sorry but you are mistaken. Dot 5.0 is silicon based I believe and is not compatible with DOT 3.0 and 4.0, but 5.1 is compatible with 3.0 or 4.0, so you don't have to change your brake lines and seals. Using DOT 5.0 may damage your seals though, never use that in motorcycles brakes.
 

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take off your calipers, flip them over, pull the r-clip holding the pin in the caliper, rotate the pads out, drop in the new ones, push the pistons in far enough so you can get the pads back over the rotor, pump the brake lever, you're done. you don't have to bleed the system, although its always a plus to do so. also get some scotch-brite or a metal polishing type pad and scuff the rotors real good on both sides. clean the rotors with a clean rag and a brake cleaner of some sort.

as far as brake fluid, the best i've EVER found is the AP Racing stuff. its ridiculously hard to find, but its worth it.
 

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Scuff the rotors? Why do you do that when you change pads?
 

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Jacob said:
Scuff the rotors?  Why do you do that when you change pads?
to clean 'em up. i like to get all the old pad material off so the new pads bed in better with the rotor.
 

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Buffalo said:
1) Get a service manual

4) Change your pads and bleed you brakes like they say in the service manual.

It easy to do, and I prefer to bleed the brakes with the wheel on the ground.
You can get a copy of the manual at the link below...its worth its weight in gold!

http://oneidasuzuki.com.
 

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Here's something I found, hope it helps....

BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT
?Remove the caliper.
CAUTION
Do not operate the brake lever while removing the caliper.
?Remove the pin.
?Remove the brake pads by removing the pad mounting pin.
?Clean up the caliper especially around the caliper pistons.
?Inspect the pad mounting pin for wear or damage. If necessary, replace it with a new one.
?Install the outer pad with the detent of pad fitted to the detent on the caliper holder .
CAUTION
Replace the brake pads as a set; otherwise braking performance will be adversely affected.
?Install the inner pad so that the inner pad will be seated on the hatched part.
?Install the pad mounting pin
?Install the pin securely.
?Remount the caliper.
?Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to the specified torque.
?Front brake caliper mounting bolt:
39 N .m (3 .9 kgf-m, 28.0 lb-ft)
NOTE:
After replacing the brake pads, pump the brake lever several times to check for proper brake operation and then check the brake fluid level.


~DR
 

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Benda said:
easier than changing your oil. i think all you need is a pair of pliers, maybe a wrench, and a domestic beer. i THINK you can leave your wheel on when doing this.
What if the only beer I have is German? Will I still be able to change the pads?
 

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MagpieTear said:
What if the only beer I have is German? Will I still be able to change the pads?
no! as any real mechanic knows. german beer is for oil changes...for brakes you go belgian with a min. alcohol content of 7%. ;)
 

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MagpieTear said:
Dang! What about a local microbrew? Should be good for at least a fork swap, no?
Microbrew is acceptable. stock swap no more than 5%, if were talking gixxer swap recommended beverage is dogfish head "120 IPA".....someone needs to make a FAQ sticky for these kinds of q's ;D
 
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