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This took 20 minutes (on my '01 naked SV) start to finish including putting tools away and covering bike back up. Refer to manual!
REAR PLUG:
-Remove tank rod from under rear seat or cowl.
-Remove tank bolts and prop up tank with rod.
-Remove spark plug cap and plug using stock plug wrench and 14mm open end.
-Replace plug with new (gap set) plug. turn approx 1/2 turn past seated to collaspe new crush waser.
-Replace plug cap (arrow to exhaust), lower tank, replace bolts, replace rod, replace seat/cowl.
FRONT PLUG:
-Remove horn using upper bracket bolt to frame ONLY
-Remove right side radiator bolt that secures radiator to front head.
-Use a 2X4 Flat-short side to prop between the radiator and the head bracket. This should fit between the head bracket and BOTH boths on the radiator that hold the electric fan (no denting the rad. fins)
-Remove cap, remove plug using stock wrench and 14mm open end.
-Replace plug (w/proper gap) and tighten 1/2 turn past seated
-Replace cap with arrow pointing toward exhaust.
-Remove 2X4 and replace radiator/head bracket bolt
-Replace horn using the one bolt you removed.
-DONE!

Once again, twenty minutes start to finish including clean-up.
 
I

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turn approx 1/2 turn past seated to collaspe new crush waser.



how do you know when the washer has collapesed.....and does this washer come with the new spark plug or ios it something you buy. ONE last thing. what happens if the spark plug is overtightened?
 

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New washer should come with the plug... You know it's collapsed when you turn it half turn past seated :) Or I think there's a torque setting in the mnuals. If you strip the plug thread you're in a bit of bother- apparently it's starting to happen quite frequently in higher mile Bandit 600 heads. I'm not sure what the fix is but I doubt it's straightforward. I'd suspect it's a new head job.

But don't worry too much about that, I've only heard of one stripped thread and one popped plug on here in teh last year or so...
 

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What about without tool kit?? I can't get my socket to fit in the hole where the plug is.

Strick said:
This took 20 minutes (on my '01 naked SV) start to finish including putting tools away and covering bike back up. Refer to manual!
REAR PLUG:
-Remove tank rod from under rear seat or cowl.
-Remove tank bolts and prop up tank with rod.
-Remove spark plug cap and plug using stock plug wrench and 14mm open end.
-Replace plug with new (gap set) plug. turn approx 1/2 turn past seated to collaspe new crush waser.
-Replace plug cap (arrow to exhaust), lower tank, replace bolts, replace rod, replace seat/cowl.
FRONT PLUG:
-Remove horn using upper bracket bolt to frame ONLY
-Remove right side radiator bolt that secures radiator to front head.
-Use a 2X4 Flat-short side to prop between the radiator and the head bracket. This should fit between the head bracket and BOTH boths on the radiator that hold the electric fan (no denting the rad. fins)
-Remove cap, remove plug using stock wrench and 14mm open end.
-Replace plug (w/proper gap) and tighten 1/2 turn past seated
-Replace cap with arrow pointing toward exhaust.
-Remove 2X4 and replace radiator/head bracket bolt
-Replace horn using the one bolt you removed.
-DONE!

Once again, twenty minutes start to finish including clean-up.
 

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See my answer to your post ... I even got a link for you.
 

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i know you say it doens' thappen but i think i might have a stripped spark plug thread in the front cylinder.......

i took out the old spark plugs...gapped the new ones went to put them in...
back one went in seated down and snugged up nice

the front one i hand tightned with a extension and it never really snugged up....

i backed it out and counted the threads and did that many turns again and i could tell it was bottoming out but would still turn....

took it out again ....no problem witht he threads on teh new spark plug...

i don't understand cause if it's stripped we didn't do it ...it was alreaDY THAT WAY

i'm not swure how tight spark plugs are suppose to be? i dont' have a manual.....is it tighter than finger tight?....
 

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You forgot to fill the front plug boot with dielectric grease and to also clean out your drain hole once you've gotten the new plug in the hole. Summer rains are coming quickly and no one wants to be riding the dreaded SV325 home.

:)
 

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i blasted it with the air compressor.....

but i didn't use grease or anyhting...will the grease make it tighten up ...and can i use locktite on the plug if it won't tighten up??
 

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but i didn't use grease or anyhting...will the grease make it tighten up ...and can i use locktite on the plug if it won't tighten up??
Dielectric grease is for keeping moisture away from the electrical connection, not to make it tighten up.

I'd stay away from the loctite- There's clearly a problem there if you cant get the plug to tighten down....Loctite isnt going to solve that.
You need to figure out if the threads are actually engaging, and you need to see if you actually have a stripped head- if its stripped, the next thing to find out is if you've dropped metal shavings down into the cylinder.
 

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we were goin on strait ...we even used a rubber hose method to start it .......the threads are ingaging it feels like but they just keep goin after it ottom out...it gets a lil harder but it will still spin with finger pressure.......and i can still see threads down in the plug hole.......but it's hard to get a real good look at them
 

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Sounds like you striped the threads. It sucks to be you now. If it tightens then loosens it is stripped, and your 25 min job just turned into a lot longer job. being an aluminum head you can't just send a magenet down to pick up the shavings, I would start getting the gaskets and stuff to tear off the head. Hate it when that happens!
 

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Sounds like you striped the threads. It sucks to be you now. If it tightens then loosens it is stripped, and your 25 min job just turned into a lot longer job. being an aluminum head you can't just send a magenet down to pick up the shavings, I would start getting the gaskets and stuff to tear off the head. Hate it when that happens!
What else would need to be done to fix that? Helicoil? Tap?
 

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What else would need to be done to fix that? Helicoil? Tap?
You could probably get away with that without removing the head if you had a way of removing all the shavings/filings that are going to drop down into the cylinder. Time to remove a cylinder head. D'oh!!
 

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I have retreaded a hole without removing the head once, you need to apply some grease to the tap and hope that it holds most of it. Being aluminum the flakes will burn up rather easy and blow through the exhaust. Also a vacuum with a small hose to stick in the hole to get as much out as possible would help. I also heard the SnapOn sales a tap that has a rubber boot that holds the dust of the tap. But rethreading may not work on a plug hole. If it was my ride I would get the head off and take it to a machine shop and have them insert a heli coil (I do all the work on my vehicles but a machine shop can more accuritly drill the hole out). Or you could look for a new or remanufactured head to put on as this would save some time.
 

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yea well i played with it for about an hour......

tryin to see where the crossthread was...

finally found it......kept feeling it pop out of one thread

put some pressure behind it felt it slip passed that thread (which was half way down)

and the rest tightened without incident and it seated fine after that.....

lets just say i hope these plugs last ............


forever....

not usually how i do things....but i don't have money to get that head off and too a shop now

.....plus it was cross threaded not stripped, it was only 1 thread...haha

well thast enough of me embarassing myself
 

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thanks i expected the first response after that, to rip me a new one....


glad someone see's things my way.........

just like that spark plug did
 
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That sucks...at least you got the plug in...did you over tighten or what did you do?
 
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