[Chrome]

My next mod/maintenance task will be changing out the fork oil to 20wt. Springs will come later, oil just for now.

I've read all kinds of black mojo magic methods for setting fork oil.

I plan on disassembling the forks off of the bike to invert them and drain the oil out. Why can't I just put the specified amount of oil back in instead of measuring what I take out etc.

Later,
Chrome...

 

[dubtecv2]

If you have means of precisely measuring the amount of oil, go for it! Measuring the distance from the top is the cheap/easy method.

 

[kjkrow]

Hmm, well I'm no expert on suspensions, but setting the fork oil wasn't really too difficult.

-Take off a leg, pull the cap, spacer, and spring.
-Invert and pump fork to drain all the oil.
-Let them sit that way for a while to drain completely.
-I didn't measure what came out, nor did I carefully measure what I put back in, just making sure it was more than needed (basically 1 pint/leg).
-To set the height I marked the desired height w/masking tape on my turkey baster.
-Collapse the fork, then suck out all extra oil using the mark on the baster until level is set.
-Reassemble and ride.

That was probably more info than you wanted, but it was quick and worked well for me. As far as measuring it before adding, I'm guessing it's more accurate to set the level of each, as opposed to basing it on volume. Also, if you end up fine tuning your fork oil, it will be based on height, and not volume.

 

[eddiemon]

http://www.svrider.com/tips/forkoil.htm

This is in the SVR tips and tricks.

 

[Chrome]

I'm guessing it's more accurate to set the level of each, as opposed to basing it on volume. Also, if you end up fine tuning your fork oil, it will be based on height, and not volume.

That's what I don't understand. How is it more accurate to set the level vs adding a specified amount? I don't intend of "fine tuning" anything. I don't ride hard, I just want to loose the "spooked trout" action.

Later,
Chrome...

 

[RichDesmond]

That's what I don't understand. How is it more accurate to set the level vs adding a specified amount? I don't intend of "fine tuning" anything. I don't ride hard, I just want to loose the "spooked trout" action.

Later,
Chrome...

First off, don't use 20w with the stock springs, 15w is better with those.

How much more accurate it is varies, and it's that variablity we're trying to avoid. Setting the level is fast, easy and guaranteed to be correct, why do it any other way?? With the stock springs use 105mm for the level.

 

[billbillw]

First off, don't use 20w with the stock springs, 15w is better with those.

How much more accurate it is varies, and it's that variablity we're trying to avoid. Setting the level is fast, easy and guaranteed to be correct, why do it any other way?? With the stock springs use 105mm for the level.

Rich,

How much oil do you recommend for a 1st gen S model and a set of your .85kg springs? I was planning on following the service manual spec of 102mm unless you recommend otherwise.

BTW, thanks for sending me those washers and new spacer material! I didn't have time last weekend to get into the forks, but plan to sometime this week.

 

[fullmetal]

mainly because not many people have an accurate measuring device for how much oil to put in.
if the instructions said to add 400ml of fork oil and you buy the oil by the pint, how are you going to measure out the 400ml of fork oil?
its quicker and easier to just follow the instructions.

 

[Mandalorian]

Hmm, well I'm no expert on suspensions, but setting the fork oil wasn't really too difficult.

-Take off a leg, pull the cap, spacer, and spring.
-Invert and pump fork to drain all the oil.
-Let them sit that way for a while to drain completely.
-I didn't measure what came out, nor did I carefully measure what I put back in, just making sure it was more than needed (basically 1 pint/leg).
-To set the height I marked the desired height w/masking tape on my turkey baster.
-Collapse the fork, then suck out all extra oil using the mark on the baster until level is set.
-Reassemble and ride.

+1

I just did this, but changed out the springs too. Turkey baster is $1.99, strip of electrical tape, and two quarts of oil. I set the height at 115mm. Some said 110, some said 120, so I split the difference.

Weird thing was, one fork's stock oil was red and dirty, and the other was black and absolutely filthy with sediment. Hugh!!?!?!?! Glad I changed them out.

Its not an exact science, so try not to get too hung up with precise measurements. You will see that when dealing with oil, there is always residue, and a mess to deal with. Just go slow and do the best you can.

I have noticed a HUGE difference (with 20wt and 0.85 sonic springs) and can say with confidence that of all the upgrades I did this winter, the fork rebuild was the most noticible and most enjoyable, and even the easiest.

Good luck and just dive in.

RK

 

[kjkrow]

Weird thing was, one fork's stock oil was red and dirty, and the other was black and absolutely filthy with sediment. Hugh!!?!?!?! Glad I changed them out.

Ha, mine were the exact same way. I was thinking it might be indicative of a blown seal, but I've never seen any oil residue on the fork tubes, so I'm not quite sure. Rich, do you know why that would be? Just old and well used OEM fork oil?

 

[Liren]

mainly because not many people have an accurate measuring device for how much oil to put in.
if the instructions said to add 400ml of fork oil and you buy the oil by the pint, how are you going to measure out the 400ml of fork oil?

I used a measuring cup to get the ml measurement just right.

 

[RichDesmond]

Rich,

How much oil do you recommend for a 1st gen S model and a set of your .85kg springs? I was planning on following the service manual spec of 102mm unless you recommend otherwise.

BTW, thanks for sending me those washers and new spacer material! I didn't have time last weekend to get into the forks, but plan to sometime this week.

No problem, glad to help.

On the oil level, if you use emulators 125mm. Without them 115mm

 

[dmmcd]

No problem, glad to help.

On the oil level, if you use emulators 125mm. Without them 115mm

I was always curious about this. Is the 125mm without the emulator installed?

 

[TomServo]

Like Liren, I removed my oil into a graduated beaker/measuring cup and noted how many ml's i removed from each leg and refilled with same amount of fresh 15wt oil (plus .90 sonic springs). Didn't take off fork legs (pumped out) so yes there may be a little of the old oil, but was easy and rides much better now.

 

[GQ*]

I wanna do this, but I need a guide for my first go around b/c I am still a lil lost when reading up on it :-(

 

[billbillw]

Google search for blueproof sv forks. She has a pretty good write-up including photos. I don't think she swaps springs, but she does change the oil and fork seals. Its really not that hard. Just time consuming. Make sure you have all the tools you need before you start.

Note, if you are only changing oil (or swaping springs), you do not need to fully disassemble the fork. (take out damper rod and separate the forks). You only need to take the forks off the bike, and remove the caps to get the spring/spacer/washer out and dump the oil.

 

[dmmcd]

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_fork_oil/

I had it bookmarked.

 

[RichDesmond]

Like Liren, I removed my oil into a graduated beaker/measuring cup and noted how many ml's i removed from each leg and refilled with same amount of fresh 15wt oil (plus .90 sonic springs). Didn't take off fork legs (pumped out) so yes there may be a little of the old oil, but was easy and rides much better now.

Sigh...there's a reason the instructions read the way they do. Assuming you started with a stock setup, your oil level is now too high. I'm sure it's much better than what you started with, but it could be better yet.

 

[RichDesmond]

I was always curious about this. Is the 125mm without the emulator installed?

No, you measure the oil level with the emulator in there but the spring and spacer removed, fork fully compressed. The difference in height is because of the difference in the compression damping curve of the emulator compared to the plain damper rod.

 

[eddiemon]

Sigh...there's a reason the instructions read the way they do. Assuming you started with a stock setup, your oil level is now too high. I'm sure it's much better than what you started with, but it could be better yet.

Hi Rich, Is that link I posted from SV tips and tricks a bit dated?