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Discussion Starter #1
I'm totally stumped, I adjusted my rear wheel to tighten up some slack in my chain, I had the back wheel off the ground so I could lube the chain as I spin the tire it goes 1full revolution and another 3/4 revolution then gets really tight and the chain gets really tight if I reverse the spin it will go back almost 1-3/4 revolution again by revolution im measuring as the valve stem goes around I can spin through the stiffness and it's back to smooth free rolling I can't tell if it's the chain or the transmission possibly, anyone experience this before or maybe have a next test to initiate???
 

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The chain is toast.

Look at the chain not the valve stem. Mark one spot on the chain and watch as the wheel rotates. You will see one tight spot, one lose spot per chain revolution. Same place each revolution.

The bigger the difference between tight/lose the worse the chain is worn.

Tight/lose is the reason why it is important to adjust the chain at the tight spot. If adjusted at the lose spot it can become extremely tight when the tight section comes around. That is what you are seeing.

Most folks replace sprockets when replacing the chain but some folks go two chains to one set of sprockets if the sprockets still look good.

A worn chain will eat new sprocket but slightly worn sprockets will hardly affect new chain life.

How many miles are on the bike?
 

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the most likely scenario is that there's a tight spot (and loose spot) in your chain

you need to adjust it so you have proper slack when in the tight spot, or else you risk bending your output shaft. sounds like you need a new chain (and probably sprockets) soon, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That makes sense I was just trying to figure out if it was indeed the chain or something internal, I didnt want to replace the chain only to mess up due to some other issue causing it! The speedo didnt work when I bought it so miles are unknown it's a 2008 the odo read 12600 miles!! Lol I'm guessing double that!
 

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I just followed the owners manual instructions for chain adjustments. With the bike wheel on the ground try for 1” of play. I’ve found chain adjustment critical in “friction zone” use proficiency.
 

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Yep, as has been said, all chains -even new ones have slightly tighter and slightly looser sections. MHO: the LAST thing you want is too tight. That way DOOM lies, because you'll chop out the gearbox bearings and/or crankcase housing. I try to adjust so that it's JUST at the spec measurement at the tightest part of the chain run... if it's a touch loose at the looser part, no problem. And make sure to re-check tension after you have tightened up the axle spindle, -tension will often change a bit then. (It always seems to tighten up a bit after tightening the spindle).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you to all who have given me some valuable pointers I think I'm gonna start with fresh chain and sprockets and move forward from there!!
 
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