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Chain Snapped -- Took Slave Cylinder Mount with it.

5.8K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  schmidt314  
#1 ·
Hi everyone.. Long time lurker but my current problems with my (new to me) SV1000S have changed that.

About 2 weeks ago my chain snapped on the freeway and I was able to cost to the shoulder and get a tow home no harm done to me or anything. It looks like it took the top left bolt of the clutch slave cylinder on it's way out and now I'm not sure what to do. Is welding an option?

http://www.bikebandit.com/2003-suzuki-sv1000/o/m6704#sch501079

If you look at the above microfiche (transmission) I'm talking about parts #33 and #30. I've also attached a picture of the damage itself. I'm unsure what to do. I only got to ride this bike for 3 days and now i'ts been sitting for a few weeks :( .

Image

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I also noticed my rubber piece #26 is missing so I'm going to order that as well.

Any suggestions here? Will I be able to order #33 and #30 and get it welded back on? Thanks
 
#2 ·
The bolt and sleeve are the least of your problems....the threads have been broken out of the case. Most people end up replacing the cases to fix such damage I believe...so this isn't going to be an easy repair for you. The sleeve fits between the case and slave and is not welded or anyway attached...just held by the slave. You need threads in the case to have somewhere to screw that forward slave screw into....plus the boss at the correct height to place the slave where it needs to be.

The cases are a set..you can't just replace one side, so you'll need both sides then totally disassemble your engine and transfer everything into the new cases. Not a really easy or inexpensive proposition. Unless I'm not seeing the damage correctly...this is what I believe you're looking at. Sorry.
 
#3 · (Edited)
You beat me to it, so I did not post my near exact response.

In this case it could be a really tough fix. Even to try to weld, most guys would want the case super clean inside and out to do a weld job anyway. I have done an engine case swap for someone that had this issue. It is an expensive swap no matter how you look at it. We got a good used set of cases for only a few hundred bucks. But all the gaskets and bearings and other crap it took is spendy along with the labor to do it. Prime time to build a fire breathing engine!

A friend of mine purchased an 03 SV1000 that had the chain break and did a bit more damage than you have. He got it for a smoking deal because the cost of fixing, even if a used engine was sourced was pretty high.

Another question is how/why did your chain break? The only things I normally see cause this are...
The chain had way too many miles on it and was way past it service limit or was not properly maintained and got to end of life way before it should have.

The master link was improperly installed and failed

Or I guess if a poor quality chain was used?

-MS
 
#7 ·
Yup, there must have been, because I just looked at mine and the mount for the cable is still there just above the countershaft cover. Like they had both systems in mind when they built the engine.
 
#13 ·
Took me forever to get the bike to a shop. They're gonna look it over and give me a call back and see what the full deal is.

I appreciate all the info you guys have provided. I bought the bike and only had it for a whopping 3 days before this happened, which is extremely depressing. The chain didnt look rusted through and the slack was okay but my mechanic skills are very limited.

I'm a broke, full-time college student and it took me almost a whole year to save up a couple grand to buy this bike. it's a real bummer. if the damage is what you guys have stated it looks like im just gonna have to sell it as a parts bike or something and take a huge loss on it. :(

i'll find out by monday or tuesday what the shop thinks after they open it up and check it out.
 
#14 ·
I'm telling you, fabbing a bracket that mounts to some of the surrounding bolts shouldn't be that big of a deal. Any half-decent metal/machine shop should be able to do that for you for a couple hundred bucks tops (depending on how much you have them do, i.e. measure, fab, install, etc.), but probably around $50.
 
#16 ·
Thats what I was thinking. The mechanic scared me by saying internals could be damaged but I don't get how that would happen since the bike was running and revving fine as I coasted to the shoulder of the HWY when it all went down and no oil or leaks or anything.

He's reaching out to his welder that specializes in motorcycles so I should have an idea of what this repair will cost by tomorrow or tuesday. I can't drive my cage in traffic. F*** that.

The simple solution is a helicoil if there is enough metal left around the threads.
I'll be finding out if any internals were ruined by tomorrow or tuesday. Hopefully this or simply welding a fixture on will be all I need to do to get back on the road.

Thanks :eek:ccasion14:
 
#17 ·
Either that or filling the hole with JB Weld and then drilling it out and re-tapping it. I know that sounds desperate, but considering the alternative very expensive and labor consuming task to properly fix it, I would at least try. If it worked that would be great. Even it it didn't there'd be the same options left afterwards.
 
#20 ·
Do you still have the broken off nub? It shouldn't have gone anywhere, still bolted to the clutch slave cylinder, no?

I would try TIG weld the nub back on. If you remove the sprocket and chain and clean the area REALLY well with a zero residue cleaner, you may have a shot. The big problem is the slightest oil/grease contamination will make for a weak weld.

If you bring the bike to a welder with the area squeaky clean, he may be able to do light grinding to expose virgin metal giving a chance for a strong weld.

As Bob said, nothing to loose by trying, and if it fails, all previous options are still open. Good luck, man, that sucks.
 
#21 ·
So it looks like it will be fixable via welding a new fixture for the bolt to go into. They also had to replace the clutch push rod & a seal or two.

They are asking ~200 ($90/hr) and their welder will want ~200. I know nothing about welding or pricing though. I'm just glad I can have my bike back in a week or so once the welder gets back from a bike show.

Does this seem fair?
 
#22 ·
My welder who has done cases for me in the past wont often weld anything that is not perfectly oil free and clean. This typically means cases off and cleaned from both inside and out. If not, he tells me there can be problems.

I am not a welder or metallurgist though so I hope for $200 you are back in business!

-MS