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Hello everyone

lately my chain has been making alot of noise, and reading post of the chain failures scared me plenty. My SV has the original chain and sprokets with 11k on the clock.

I think it is time for a new chain, so I will be replacing the sprokets too. I have a few questions

-Is there a particular brand of chains or sprokets that you all may recommend?

-Any places recommended or have them in stock in the San Francisco area?

-Where can I purchase one of those riveting tools? -What brand tool is good?

Any tips and recommendations welcom and greatly appreciated.

This will be my first chain job, and I'll be using the "how to" from elskipador. Which is a great write up!

Thanks,
SportSV
 
A

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People have complaints about sprocket specialists, I think, but I'm not sure there's a big difference among manufacturers, I've always used Vortex sprockets and DID chains. I'm not a heavy user, my SV goes to the track mostly. Motion Pro sells the chain tools. Big question is what material, steel, alloy, etc. Depends on how much, and how, you ride. The biggest install issue is grinding off the head of the rivet before you press it out, and then being able to peen it over when you reinstall -- that part can be difficult even with the chain tool.

Ari
 

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be wary of vortex sprockets as they are not hardend and will wear out much faster than others. I use RRP sprockets and RK xw ring chains.

most generic cycle shops carry vortex sprockets and DID chains. I get mine from www.sprocketcenter.com.

I haven't read his write up so I'll assume the basics are covered. make sure your chain has the right # of links on it. If you buy a 120 link chain (common) and need to cut it down check it like 3 times :)

good luck
 

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I hope its alright if I use this thread, I thought since we are looking to do the same exact thing I could save some space.

Anyways am I correct in understanding that all I need to change the sprockets and chain on my SV650 is:

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/detail.aspx?ID=323

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/detail.aspx?ID=213

And I was also thinking of gitting this:

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/detail.aspx?ID=214

is that all I need or no?

I am most likely going with stock sprockets/chain but what benefits does the 520 conversion offer? What are the drawbacks?
 

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thats all you need. 

arguments for 520 go both ways.  they usually go something like this:

guy A  "520 = less rotating mass = more horsepower"
guy B "you can't tell on the street anyway.  and prove it to me on the dyno"
guy A "but there are more gearing options available in 520"
guy B "do you change your gearing every other weekend like a racer?"
guy A "whatever, it's cool to say 520 kit in my sig though"
guy B "520 chains and aluminum sprockets wear out faster too"
guy A "but I get more HP, so it's worth it"
guy B "um....buy what you want...."

(btw, I wouldn't bother with the alignment tool. If you measure from swingarm piviot to axle on each side you get a straight wheel.)
 

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Hahah ::)

That was hilarious but yet very informative. I guess I am going with the stock sprockets. Probably easier anyways. So just to make sure, the brands that are in my above link are good brands right? I heard that the tool kit is very good and I belive I heard somewhere the sprocket/chain set is good too but I just want to make sure. Also is it worth is it to buy the alignment tool or is there a way to tell if the wheel is straght ( I know those swingarm lines are off by a considerable amount).

Is sprocketceneter pretty reliable and quick with shipping? How fast can I expect to get them?

Sorry I have so many questions but I just want to make sure hehe.

Thanks alot everyone.

Ahh last thing, is the washer that goes on the front sprocket (that is bent on one side over the nut) come with the kit or do I have to buy it seperately?
 

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nicrotank said:
Ahh last thing, is the washer that goes on the front sprocket (that is bent on one side over the nut) come with the kit or do I have to buy it seperately?

Mine did not come with one, you can just reuse the one that is on there if you are carful.

Also, while you have it apart, lower the front sprocket to a 14 tooth. Its much mo betta
 

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I used OEM sprockets (from Ron Ayers if I remember) and a DID gold X-ring chain. Used the Motion Pro tool in the post above. You MUST grind the heads off the rivets if you cut the chain or you'll probably break the tool tip. Little lube on head of the ground off pin doesn't hurt also. I didn't use the press plate in the tool kit to press on the new chain side plate - seemed kind of clumsy. I just pressed each side of the plate (right over the rivet) a little at a time until the plate was seated. Like someone said, if you must cut the chain, measure (and count) three times at least, then cut.

I haven't read the "how to" (how do you find it?) but I'll assume it covers everything. I do remember that the drive sprocket nut was a B**** to get off. Use some WD-40 or a nut loosening product - let it sit for quite a while, then a big breaker bar.

That sprocket/chain kit mentioned by nicrotank looks great - one order for everything, no cutting of the chain, and a rivet link (a must compared to clip type). Looks like it's for a naked though, the S version has different gearing and chain length, and I didn't find a kit for the S on that web site.

Doubt if you get the washer in the kit - just use the old one and bend over an unused portion of it.

Please post if any questions.

Bill K.
 

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nicrotank said:
Hahah ::)

So just to make sure, the brands that are in my above link are good brands right?
Is sprocketceneter pretty reliable and quick with shipping? How fast can I expect to get them?
AFAM and DID are very good stuff.  buy with confidence.

I have used sprocketcenter 2x and both times VERY FAST shipping.  the first time I used the normal shipping and for some reason they bumped me up to the faster one and I got them in like a day and a half without being charged the extra $$.  The second time I paid for the 2 day fast delivery and they didn't charge my account for the more expensive shipping yet it was deliverd that way and I got it in 2 days.  

I did order a 110 link chain the first time and got the full 120 link...no big deal casue I had the tools to cut it down but I'm glad I checked.
 

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SportSV said:
thanks for all the replies, doest anyone know which tool I need.
Motion pro sells a jumbo and regular what is the difference, looks like I need the jumbo but not sure.
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=110

Thanks,
SportSV
the regular one is all you need. the jumbo is basically the same thing but for shops and meant to be uesd every day. IIRC it can be bench mounted for cutting bulk chain. I've never seen the DID tool but it looks pretty good. The motion pro tool will allow you to do bicycle chains also. 50% of the stuff in the kit you won't need, but its the only way to get what you do need, and is still cheaper than the DID.
 

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mrlucky2u said:
Mine did not come with one, you can just reuse the one that is on there if you are carful.

Also, while you have it apart, lower the front sprocket to a 14 tooth. Its much mo betta
Could you please elaborate on why the 14 tooth is so much better than the 15?

BTW thanks alot everyone, all the help is appreciated.
 

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Sprocket specialist rear sprocket in stock tooth form is on back order til end of the month. OEM parts are A) difficult to find B) more expensive than aftermarket

Find what you need and look for the cheapest reseller.
 

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Oh, and the chain is a biatch unless you have proper tools (which cost $80 or so). Might wanna get the chain put on at a shop.
 

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durx said:
Sprocket specialist rear sprocket in stock tooth form is on back order til end of the month.  OEM parts are A) difficult to find B) more expensive than aftermarket

Find what you need and look for the cheapest reseller.
per mile, OEM is cheaper, what's difficult about findiing OEM, any suzuki dealer will get them for you
 

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nicrotank said:
Could you please elaborate on why the 14 tooth is so much better than the 15?
Going to a 14 tooth front sprocket lowers the gearing ratio (about the same as 3 up in the rear), allowing for quicker acceleration, however top end is compromised (even then, not by much).  But really, how much top end do you really use on the street???  Also, a lower gearing might affect your gas mileage, but again, not by much.

choice is yours ;D

HTH
 

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nicrotank said:
Could you please elaborate on why the 14 tooth is so much better than the 15?

BTW thanks alot everyone, all the help is appreciated.
better is a matter of opinion, if you want a bit quicker acceleration. the ability to loft your front wheel easier and to shift more often, then 14 is what you might want

I went to 16t to keep the front wheel on the ground, reduce the amount of shifting and improve my fuel economy, IMHO 16t is better + you can get an OEM 16t while you can't get a 14t OEM
 

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Yea, IMO its better with a 14 tooth front.

I went to a 14 tooth front, and raised one tooth in the back, and I love it.

Just gives you that bit of umph off the line.

For street riding its great, if you are a track rider, you probably wouldn't want to. It affects your top end, but not by much.
 
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