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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm getting ready to sync the carbs on both SVs and I'm going to do the tubing setup to make future maintenance easier.

My concern is which tubing to use. It seems to me that there is going to be a bit of heat at the nipple on the front carb (where I want to put an exteneded piece of tubing) and I"m not sure how well the clear plastic tubing recommended in the writeup will hold up.

Does anyone have any experience with this? How well does it hold up?

Does anyone have any other recommended tubing and where to source it? I'm thinking about ordering a couple of extra pieces of the tubing that goes from the rear cylinder to the vacuum-petcock thingy, but it costs $7.00 a piece from Ronayers for that.

Thanks all for any advice you have.

Aaron
 

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The standard vinyl tubing available at auto parts stores works just fine. That's what I use underhood in cars.

The synch tubing bits I put on 7 years ago are still there, still flexible. I changed most of the other vacuum tubing when I installed a DecelLight vacuum switch about 5 years ago.
 

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Clear vinyl tubing 1/4 inch was $0.19 a foot at my hardware store. Works just fine.

Later,
Chrome...
It's in the plumbing section of Lowe's or Home Depot.
 

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The vinyl stuff seems to have worked fine for everyone but if you want another option I used vacuum hose. It's like a buck a foot so it's way more expensive but it looks better, stretches over the nipples easier, and I would think it would handle heat and chemicals better (not that it needs to). I bought 6ft prepackaged at Advance. I think it was cheaper than buying by the foot. I can't remember what size I used but it's pretty stretchy so you can use a smaller inside diameter than you might think. The caps I used to cover the connectors on the ends are 1/4in but I'm sure I used smaller hose.

It's probably just personal preference. I would have worried about the vinyl but I don't with the vacuum hose. Also the way I routed mine leaves a section of it visible and the vinyl would have looked like crap.
 

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I just did mine on saturday and had full intentions of doing the tubing but I said "forget" it and just hooked up the sync tool. Maybe next time I'll do it but it was pretty easy anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One last question. I'm having a hard time finding the barbed on/off valves and I'm thinking I don't really need them anyway.

What would it hurt to just use a 1/4 " male to 1 /4" male vacuum hose connector and then put a cap on the end of the open end on the front cylinder after syncing anyway?

I put 8" of vacuum hose on the front cylinder of both SVs today. I spent a ton of time on the first one pulling the carbs 3/4" of the way out (I wanted to make a jetting change anyway) but if your hands are small enough, loosening the radiator is MUCH easier (I did that on the 2nd bike).
 

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Don't know about the S models, but with the naked, I don't need to drop the radiator. I was able to get the cap off fairly easily. My hands aren't hams, but they aren't small either. I wear a "medium and a half" glove.

Later,
Chrome...
 

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What would it hurt to just use a 1/4 " male to 1 /4" male vacuum hose connector and then put a cap on the end of the open end on the front cylinder after syncing anyway?
That's what I did. I put a T in the rear one and ran a hose from each all the way to the right side cover, put connectors on and capped them.

And I could get to the front but the cap was stuck so tight that I just (carefully) cut it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Do I need the T connector off the rear cylinder? I was planning on using my Mity-Vac to put vacuum on the petcock while I balanced the carbs. Would it be better/more accurate to have connected to the petcock?
 

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Do I need the T connector off the rear cylinder? I was planning on using my Mity-Vac to put vacuum on the petcock while I balanced the carbs. Would it be better/more accurate to have connected to the petcock?
No. It just makes it easier, especially if you don't have a mity-vac. Leave it out and if it seems like too much of a hassle you can always add it later.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update:

Well, I got both bikes balanced. I used the Carbtune and it works great!. I ended up using vacuum hose from a parts store down the road to connect to the front cylinders, and straight 1/4" to 1/4" connectors with no valves. I just used the vacuum caps to cap each hose and added a small ziptie for peace of mind.

Since I've got full fairings on both bikes, the hose really didn't bother me anyway, but I ended tucking the loose tubing between the frame and the coolant reservoir and keeping it in place with a long ziptie. If you go that route, be careful not to get in the way of your throttle cables.

Both bikes needed a little tweaking but in retrospect, I think my jerky, snatchy chain was the main culprit. I'll never know for sure. That's what I get for changing 2 variables at teh same time!
 

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We used standard NAPA black vacuum hose which has lasted three years with no problems, we used a bolt to plug the hose and only did the front carb since the rear is easy to get to. We left the petcock attached to the the second vacuum port. The SV carbs I have checked have all been close versus 4 cylinder in lines which have been all over the place.
 
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