as someone mentioned earlier, if you have no fueling related issues, don't need to do anything to the carbs.
If you do disassemble the carbs for cleaning, you generally want to take off ALL rubber parts, carb cleaner will penetrate rubber, and make it swell and distort.
Main thing are the slide diaphragms and float needles. you may get away with leaving little o-rings in if just spraying through the jets, but generally if doing a full clean you need to remove everything off the carb, leaving the bank together, and submerge them in carb cleaner inside an agitator if possible.
the carb body, all the jets, emulsion tube, and float bowl especially if it has an accelerator pump, all get put in the carb tank loosely.
get your idle mixture screw settings before taking them out. if you forget, 2 ½ turns out is a good start before idle dropping the carbs.
if all the rubber looks fine, you should be ok. anything cracked or hard (typically the float bowl gasket) should be replaced. I always flip the mixture screw o-ring because they generally become convex on the carb side.
If you had fuel coming out of the overflow, make sure the nipple on top of the float needle is still springy, make sure the cone of it is perfect and has no wear marks. and you can take metal polish on a q-tip and polish the float needle seat in the carb.
At the shop we always replace the pilot screws if any of the gas has had a chance to gum up. It's much cheaper to replace them than to tear the carbs apart again.
After carb cleaning we wash the whole thing off with water, and then use compressed air to spray through each and every opening in both directions to get rid of any left over carb cleaner.
when reassembling make sure the float height is correct and adjust if you can.
If there were running issues we generally go ahead and replace the spark plugs as well. pilot screws and spark plugs on every carb clean we do.
There's 5 mechanics at the shop and we each do 2-3 carb cleans a week.
