You can switch to any oil you like to, synthetic, semi synthetic or regular. Just don't use energy conserving oils for cars.

 

+1

 

You can run fully synthetic oil for way less than $13/quart...i can't believe anyone would ever pay that kind of money for oil.

I run Mobil 1...way cheaper than $13/quart

 

I like Mobil1 10W-40 4T Racing, but it's about $10 per quart around here (O'Reilly I think). Rotella T6 is about $6.25 a qt in gallons, Castrol 4T Racing I've found for $7 qt and am giving that a try next change.

Where do you get Mobil1 and how much is it?

Thanks.

 

Just use rotella t6 if money is a concern. Its only 20 a gallon.

 

In my neck of the woods, full synthetic mc oil is $11-12/qt. except for Mobil1 4T Racing for mc which can cost up to $17/qt depending upon where you shop. Around here, auto parts stores do not carry the mc Mobil1. In NY state they do.

 

This is from the Mobil1 oil web site

So how is Mobil 1 for passenger cars different from Mobil 1 for motorcycles?
First, let's be clear about Mobil 1's overall benefits compared to those of conventional motor oils, whether for passenger cars or motorcycles:

* Superior long-term engine protection.
* Superior high-temperature stability.
* Excellent low-temperature starting.
* Outstanding engine performance.
* Low volatility/low oil consumption

It's a little hard to generalize about the difference between Mobil 1 passenger-car motor oils and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. That's because not all viscosities of Mobil 1 passenger-car oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences among the three Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. In general, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have:

* Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous).

 

^That pretty much covers it exactly.

What you are giving-up with 10W-40 (no modifiers) auto oils are higher levels of additives that prevent against galling of cams (and other high pressure contact areas) at start-up. Automotive roller lifters don't need the same lube as solid lifters/rockers do, and the lack of ZDDP has caused all sorts of problems for solid lifter/rocker engines.

Here's Mobil's info that covers the amounts of Phosphorus and Zinc in each type of oil -

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Most of the cycle oils have levels in the 1000-1200 ppm range of each, as does all multi-grade Rotella and Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck.

 

As does Mobil 1 15w-50(as far as that chart shows)....which is what i use in my bike....

 

Thanks so much for the responses and for the discussion, guys!

It's a big help and it'll save me some money!!!

Cheers,
Dave

 

Suzuki recommends 10W/40 for the SV650. However, if you look at the oil chart they supply in the service manual, 10W/50 and 15W/50 are shown to operate at similar higher temps as does the 10W/40. Maybe there's a 10deg difference between these grades. And one manufacturer's 10W might be another's 5W. If your engine performance doesn't suffer or your clutch action and you don't experience premature wear and breakdowns, it probably doesn't matter as to small grade changes or brand. Two different grades of oil are recommended by Triumph for my bike, so it's a toss up in my view.

Edit: My opinion, you are losing nothing by using the 15W/50. In WI, maybe the 15W in the colder months is thicker than the 10, but once again, minor differences.

 

For clarification, is there going to be that much difference if you use the automotive 10w-40? I oil ask cuz I just bought 3 quarts of mobile one full synthetic extended millage yesterday. I bought the bike last March and this will be my first time doing an oil change.

 

Pretty sure that's not energy conserving so technically it should work. Why not just return it and get Mobil synthetic 4t for motorcycles, though. It's the same price.

 

There are other reasons besides Friction Modifiers not to use auto oil.

Current auto oils have low levels of important additives like Zinc and Phosphorus (ZDDP) which protect solid lifter cams at start-up (mostly).

Diesel and cycle oils have safe ZDDP levels for solid cams (1200 ppm +/-), but current auto oils have levels closer to 800/900 ppm.

Mobil1 Extended Performance has the same levels as regular Mobil1, but has a higher grade base stock (PAO). Mobil1 High Mileage has higher than normal levels but also adds "seal softeners" to reduce oil leakage - so that's a no-go in my book.

Here's a Mobil1 data sheet will all the info - http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

 

BTW, I'm pretty sure FIL is Father In Law. Don't know if that was ever clarified for Jay V

Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Didn't get that, but makes sense.