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I did mine without the pic, you can do it by marking the cam wheel opposite the lobe and then counting teeth on the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
parts were $205 shipped from Oneida.

SKU: (#18785)
Product: CAM SHAFT VALVE SV650/S 2003-04
Quantity: 1
Selected options:
PART: #1 CAMSHAFT INTAKE FRONT 12710-17G00
Item price: $ 92.99

SKU: (#18785)
Product: CAM SHAFT VALVE SV650/S 2003-04
Quantity: 1
Selected options:
PART: #3 CAMSHAFT REAR INTAKE 12730-17G00
Item price: $ 92.99

SKU: (#19190)
Product: CAM CHAIN SV 1999-2002
Quantity: 2
Selected options:
ITEM: #11 GASKET 12837-24A10
Item price: $ 1.18
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Zig, it would have been more helpful (for me at least) a few hours earlier. :wink: :D

The swap is complete and with the excpetion of a lost valve cover bolt gasket (which I fabricated a replacemnt out of leather) all is well.

Here's some more details about my install...
My bike is an '02 with ~3,500 miles, stock exhaust, stock filter (no snorkle), 150 main jets (unknown brand, maybe Mikuni?), 2 shims on the slide needle and unknown pilot and idle screw setting. The carb work was done before I got the bike and I was pleasently surprised to see it was done.

Install was straight forward, line up F on the rotor through the left case inspection cover by rotating engine with the 17mm bolt head through the inspection cover in the middle of the case. This will line up either the front or rear cylinder, not both at the same time. The manual has very good pics for this in the engine section page 109 to 120. You do not need the special tool to hold the tensioners while you install them, they would be nice but all you need is a small flathead screwdriver. The 03 intake cams have the exact same markings as the gen1 intake cams, just replace them exactly as the originals came out. The stock intake cams (the ones you pulled) go back in as per Zig's pic. The manual does a great job showing you how to get it all lined up, just do like the pictures show. Slowly rotate the crank a few revolutions with the 17mm bolt just to make sure you got it right, if you screwed something up and hit the starter then you'd get to do a valve job (not fun).

While I had the cams out I did some quick measuring, they're all rough measurements of the enire journal, not just lift. It's just to give you an idea as to the increase in lift...

03 intake = 1.425"
02 intake = 1.400"
02 exhaust = 1.325"

Just about everything you take apart has a torque spec of 7 ft-lbs, the cam chain tensioner adjuster bolt however is 6 ft-lbs.

The ride...
Hot Damn! On the test ride around the block it didn't feel much different but when I took it out and got on it, it really got light up front. I have no doubt that it will now power wheelie first and second. Hopefully Quintin will let me know how much he had to work his 03 SVS to keep up :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Here's some pics...

Here's where the timing marks are for the crank.



Some masking tape and cardboard are handy to make sure you don't mess up your radiator during removal / installation...



Here's the rear cylinder in time. Note the black magic marker on the rivets to ensure you put the new ones in the right spot...



Rear cylinder iwth new cams in place...



Rainbow sprinkles have been scientifically proven to make a project go more smoothly...



I use Lucas oil additive for an assembly lube, it's great stuff. A torque wrench and 5mm allen key and socket bits are extremely handy. You also need a small flathead screwdriver for the cam chain tensioners, the swivel joint are handy too.



Quintin wondering how he's going to keep up with his STOCK 03 SVS...




I got these from MackeyStingray's thread over on BARF...



 

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One thing I did differently was to drop the radiator instead of entirely removing it- there was enough free play in the hoses of mine that I could remove the fan and the horn, and one of the LHS engine bolts, and the whole thing slid down past the head without having to drain it. Not a huge deal but it sped things up a little
 

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Some tips from my experiences today:
1. Make sure the cam chains do not bind before you do anything else!
2. The cam holders go on with the arrows pointing towards the cam sprockets!
Other than that...so far so good. Everything seems together and seems to be working ok. I havent started it up yet since I do not have carbs on it yet. I will keep you posted.
ac
 

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TWF said:
wacky_woodchuck said:
I posted it on her before.. but ust for you, here it is.
your bike is running lean.try size up on main and one clip on needle.
I have the mains coming and I was thinking of going to a 17.5 pilot instead of the 15. But I'll try to raise the needle one before I make the jump.
 

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avc8130 said:
I think you need 17.5 pilots. I had those back when I had just a pipe and K&N. The 17.5 pilots let you still have some adjustment with your air screw. We are talking under 10$ here. You could always just get rid of those CV's for Flat Slides!
ac
Yeah... It's going to be a trial and error type of thing....

I'd love a set of flat slides... but for a street mount, that I ride daily, I think it's over kill...
 

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rwheelz said:
well those are certainly some impressive gains... what else was done to the bike at the time of that dyno?
Nothing. The only change was the cam swap. It was the same filter, same carbs, same jetting set up... and kind of close weather. It was cooler the first time though.

I am running:

Dual High mount Renegades
15 Pilots
3 turns on A/F screw
152.5 Mains
Drilled Slide Hole
Dynojet Needle, third clip
Desnorkled Stock filter.



Soon, I will add a set of 17.5 pilots, new filter (desnorkled) and a set of 155 mains.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
avc8130 said:
2 things:
1) 1st tank of fuel gone with mods below: 38 mpg
2) I was just thinking...should we be doing valve adjustments when we do cam swaps? You know, checking clearance and swapping shims?
ac
I'm sure your big honkin flat-slides have nothing to do with your low MPG...
I'm still over 40MPG though I'll admit I'm running a little lean.
My config = de-snorkeled, stock exhaust, 150 mains and 2 shims.

Checking the valve clearance is a good idea... my bike only had ~3K miles on it so I didn't bother...
 

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Donnie,
We have checked the timing many times, everything seems right. Is this a valid way to check:
Set the rotor to F. Check front cams marks, 1 on cyl head, 2 up, 3 up 16 teeth off.
Rotate engine 360 to F. Check rear cams, similar to above. (I dont have the markings in front of me but you get what I mean.)
We have done that and they were right.
ac
 
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