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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All.

I took the plunge and bought a 2000 plate SV650S a few months ago with no rego which had been stored for close to 2 years as the owner had stopped riding. Got it fairly cheap in ok condition with a low 100,000 ks give or take. This is the third bike I have in the garage (lives mainly in my shed so the wife doesn't see it as often as the other 2 bikes in the actual garage) and treating it like a project bike that I work on during lockdown (I live in NSW, Australia and we are in lockdown again). I wanted an 'older' bike with carbys that I could play with after having owned a VFR400 is the past. So far enjoying pulling the bike apart and working on bits and pieces. Not sure if I will use it as a commuter, fun old school bike or possibly turn it into a cheap track bike at this stage.

Currently I am working on getting the bike running better. When I got the bike I pulled the carbys off and gave them a quick clean to make sure the motor started and ran. When buying the bike the motor would turn over but not run. I needed to make sure it ran before throwing more money at the bike. The carby clean worked and I got the bike running but it is not smooth and will not run with anything less than 1/3 choke. I have purchased an All Balls carb kit and will rebuild the carbys after dipping the carbys into an ultrasonic cleaner bath for a good proper internal clean. Hopefully that gets it running prepoerly.

Long story to get to my actual question!

My question to all the SV owners out there is while I have the carbys off I am looking at replacing both the cam chain tensioners with new OEM units. To do this is this a straight swap that I can do without taking the valve covers off?

I know as a minimum I would have to turn the motor to ensure the front or rear cylinder marker is visible in the sighting hole when replacing the applicable tensioner. And possibly remove the spark plugs. The service manual I found on the forum has the whole motor removed for this part of the maintenance instructions and I assume I do not have to go to that extreme to replace these.

Would be good to hear back from some experienced people on whether I need to take the valve covers off or not.

Thanks all!
 

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I don't believe the valve covers would necessarily need to come off. You will need to make a special tool to wind up the new CCT if you're replacing with OEM, and it's kind of a pain in the ass to get it installed even after removing the rear wheel for that rear cylinder. I'm sure that's why the manual shows it with the motor pulled--it doesn't properly display the amount of cursing necessary to install the rear CCT.

Now, I would probably argue in favor of pulling the valve covers off anyway depending on how far into the bike you're getting. If you're pulling the radiator forward (or off) to remove the spark plug, you're like three bolts from having the front valve cover off. Pop that bad boy open and check the valve clearances just to make sure there's nothing way out of whack. The valve clearance check is pretty easy with a pair of feeler gauge, and it'll (hopefully) give you some peace of mind. Valve clearance adjustments get a little more hairy, but a clearance check isn't too tricky. Don't overtighten the valve cover bolts when re-assembling.
 

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yes, you can change them without taking the valve covers off.

Ideally you would rotate the engine forward to set the new tensioners before starting the engine as to avoid any start up potential problem with valve to piston contact
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't believe the valve covers would necessarily need to come off. You will need to make a special tool to wind up the new CCT if you're replacing with OEM, and it's kind of a pain in the ass to get it installed even after removing the rear wheel for that rear cylinder. I'm sure that's why the manual shows it with the motor pulled--it doesn't properly display the amount of cursing necessary to install the rear CCT.

Now, I would probably argue in favor of pulling the valve covers off anyway depending on how far into the bike you're getting. If you're pulling the radiator forward (or off) to remove the spark plug, you're like three bolts from having the front valve cover off. Pop that bad boy open and check the valve clearances just to make sure there's nothing way out of whack. The valve clearance check is pretty easy with a pair of feeler gauge, and it'll (hopefully) give you some peace of mind. Valve clearance adjustments get a little more hairy, but a clearance check isn't too tricky. Don't overtighten the valve cover bolts when re-assembling.
Thanks for the response mate. I assume you are the same MattTriesToDoThings as the fella on Youtube. If so I have seen the SV650S tensioner video and had a laugh when the the special tool popped out and scared the sh*t out of you haha.

I am still working on the carbs but I will pull the valve covers off and do the clearance check and go from there. Fingers crossed it is all in spec. Any recommendations on whether to do the CCT swap before or after the clearance check? Not sure it matters really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes, you can change them without taking the valve covers off.

Ideally you would rotate the engine forward to set the new tensioners before starting the engine as to avoid any start up potential problem with valve to piston contact
Thanks mate. Will keep that in mind after swapping the CCTs over.
 

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If so I have seen the SV650S tensioner video and had a laugh when the the special tool popped out and scared the sh*t out of you haha.
Well, I never want to give off the idea that I might actually know what I'm doing, so... gotta leave the gaffs in, heh. Somebody I'd recently met asked me something about that CCT tool--what thickness metal I made it out of. I measured, and 1/32" is what I ended up using, but I believe something 3/64" would work better. I can't verify if anything thicker than that would actually fit though. The 1/32" is pretty flimsy, but I also could have done a better job actually getting the dimensions right. Next time I'm going to try something 3/64"--maybe somebody else can confirm if that is a more appropriate thickness for the CCT tool.

I'd do the CCT swap after checking the clearances if only because it's not actually necessary to remove them right away. That way, if you did find that you have to do a shim swap you wouldn't need to redo the work of pulling the CCT to relieve the tension to pull the cam(s).
 
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