[2wheelsrbest]

Is there a prefered method to access the cam chain tensioner on rear cylinder when doing a valve adjustment?

To remove, I opted to pull the rear wheel, which seems like the best route, but figured I'd ask, just in case there was a simpler way. Remove engine-type answers need not apply...

Search won't let me search for cam, so I get rear wheel/drive chain info...

*Seems like many people ask about how soon or how badly a bike's valves need adjusting, too, so here's my rundown.

04 SV nekkid, 5k miles
All valves solidly middle of the spec range, save for one that is "just" over the min spec

06 SVS, 11k miles
All over the frickin' board. All were within spec, but half were very close to low end

02 KLR650, 5k miles
All within spec, but several close to low end

02 KLR650, 10k miles
All **** near same ending specs as at 5k

KLR is a frickin' treat to work on compared to the SV, too.

 

[donniej]

With an assortment of universals and extensions it's not that hard. No need to remove anything.

 

[2wheelsrbest]

Guess I am on the right track then.

I realize this isn't a crucial torque-spec fasterner, but I think I am faster at R+R-ing the rear wheel to get in and do it than I would be to dick around with the wobbly extenders.

Hope my shop is open manana for the shim I need. Monday...

 

[JPDD]

With an assortment of universals and extensions it's not that hard. No need to remove anything.

+1

I ordered a set of gaskets for both the front and rear tensioners. The rear one came apart when I removed the tensioner and required a new one.

 

[YoKramer]

I got mine no problems w/ a 3" extension what ever mm Alan socket and 3/8 drive ratchet after I took off the right rear-set. Put it on by putting the bolt on the socket and the socket on the extension and screwing it back in by hand until snug then tightened it w/ the ratchet.