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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted about a month ago that my bike started giving the FI on occasion and it turns out to be the C42 error. For those that don't know, it's the Anti theft System tripping balls.

My bike is not stock, I bought it this way and have only been doing maintenance on it lately. 01-02 GSXR front fork swap/brakes(upgraded brake lines to SS). The only thing I have done electrically is soldered in some flush mount turn signals as the side marker/turn signals were missing. I spliced these into the existing front turn signal harness/wiring.

M4 exhaust, open cone filters on TB's(no air box), Power commander. Rearsets and full fairing(doubt that relates to C42, but might as well list my mods :)

When the C42 first started I would toggled the kill switch several times and/or move the steering levers left/right repeatedly. Lock the forks, unlock the forks, move the key in the ignition a few times. It will randomly come on, then trigger FI. It's rare but sometimes the bike wants to start up like nothing is wrong, for the most part, I get the FI and have to play with it to get her started.

I read that you can run a 100 ohm resister in line with the ignition system and this will bypass the anti theft and has cured the issue for some people. I plan on putting a wheel lock with 110 db siren on my front wheel if I do this.

My question is, what type of resistor do i use? 1/4 watt? 1/2 or 1watt?

Does anyone have a detail of the installation? I've read random stuff on how to do it, and most of it has been from the 650 model and most likely Gen 1(I have a 2003 Gen 2).
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I made some progress tonight, I feel pretty good about it as the bike started every single time. Tomorrow we will see how well the change holds.

Basically, where the PCIII connects to the TPS sensor seemed loose or dirty. I took that connection apart, cleaned it, and installed it again. The Green connector at the steering neck is fine(checked that first).

I feel really good about figuring this out. I would have gone for a test ride but I had a little crown before I started. No drinking and riding for me thank you, also waiting on stickers to come in the mail so its not like I would have gone far. Tomorrow if my stickers don't show up I may wait till night time to go for a ride. I'm jonsin' to take her out.

Also forgot to add I have the aTRE, but this didn't effect the starting/C42 code. It really boiled down to the connection from the TPS/PCIII so I really hope this is it. Regardless, the 110db wheel lock/siren is also going on the bike.
 

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Good description OrangeBlood; it always helps when folks post detailed information about the problem along with history. :thumbsup:

... My question is, what type of resistor do i use? 1/4 watt? 1/2 or 1watt?
1/2 watt or greater is required.

...Does anyone have a detail of the installation? I've read random stuff on how to do it, and most of it has been from the 650 model and most likely Gen 1(I have a 2003 Gen 2).
On the SV1000, the resistor goes between Orange/Red and Orange on the harness side of the green connector. If you do this, be sure to disconnect Orange/Yellow coming from the ignition switch. Necessary to be sure you don't have TWO resistors accidentally connected simultaneously.




I made some progress tonight, I feel pretty good about it as the bike started every single time. Tomorrow we will see how well the change holds.

Basically, where the PCIII connects to the TPS sensor seemed loose or dirty. I took that connection apart, cleaned it, and installed it again. The Green connector at the steering neck is fine(checked that first).

I feel really good about figuring this out. I would have gone for a test ride but I had a little crown before I started. No drinking and riding for me thank you, also waiting on stickers to come in the mail so its not like I would have gone far. Tomorrow if my stickers don't show up I may wait till night time to go for a ride. I'm jonsin' to take her out.

Also forgot to add I have the aTRE, but this didn't effect the starting/C42 code. It really boiled down to the connection from the TPS/PCIII so I really hope this is it. Regardless, the 110db wheel lock/siren is also going on the bike.
Sorry to say, OrangeBlood, the TPS/PCIII connection has nothing to do with the C42 error code. The only thing the ECM looks at to say good or bad, is voltage on O/R directly at the ECM input. Target voltage is about 5v, but the ECM will accept up to about 7v and low as 3v, if I recall correctly. There is no way the TPS or PCIII connection can affect this.

Intermittent problems are difficult to troubleshoot since it is hard to tell when you have truly solved the problem..., and of course if all is working at the moment, noting will show failure.

Folks often see C42 when trying to bypass the ignition on a race bike, but C42 is not common on a stock bike. It could be a faulty ignition switch, bad harness wiring, or even the ECM, but the ignition switch is the most likely culprit, though I haven't seen a single failure of this type in 3yrs on the forum...

If it were my bike, I would want to catch the failure is action to be sure the problem is solved. It kinda sucks to do things to a working bike (at the moment) then hope that the problem is truly solved. You might place a Posi-Tap on O/R, near where it enters the ECM. The next time C42 shows, measure the voltage. That will confirm if the problem is ECM (not likely) or external. With the failure active, disconnect the green ignition switch connector, turn the switch to ON, then measure resistance between Orange, and Orange/Yellow. If you fail to see 100 ohms, you will know for sure the ignition switch is bad. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks TeeRiver,

I neglected to mention that I bought my bike from a guy who also owns an SV650. He mentioned that the ignition switch is sticky. I have never known it to be flawless and am just use to how it works. It is a bit tricky to use between locking the forks and unlocking the forks. Last night when I assumed the TPS/PCIII connection was the culprit I did not lock the forks between starting up the bike. I only toggled between Off/On.

Bringing this to light, perhaps it is the ignition causing an issue when the forks are locked and then unlocked?
 

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If the switch is sticky, it is possible there is a problem with internal contacts...

You might try wiggling the key to see if you can make C42 show again. If you can get it to fail, then STOP!, carefully open (so as not to make the failure go away) the green connector and measure resistance between Orange and Orange/Yellow on the ignition switch connector side.

As mentioned, if 100 ohms does not show between those two wires with key in the ON position, then you have 100% found the problem. At that point, I would again wiggle the key to see if you can get 100 ohms to appear as extra confirmation.

If you can do that, then install the bypass as previously explained and sleep easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks again TeeRiver. I am pumped to get home try this after work today. I will post results per my findings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Frustration ensues.

first thing I did was unlock the forks and put the key in the "on" position. FI error immediately. "YES! This will be quick," I thought to myself as I moved the key back into the "off" position. Removed side covers, seat and the gas tank screws. Lifted the tank and removed the green connector from it's mount. Put the key back into the "on" position and I hear the awesome sound of "Wiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeezzzzzzzzz" and no FI light. No problem, turn the key to "lock" back to "on" and again she wants to prep for start up. I could NOT, for the life of me, get her to trigger the FI after I removed the green connector from its mounting location. I know I am impatient, but I gave her several attempts to flash the FI. Moved her around a bit, moved the green connector around, lock->off->on position on the ignition switch. No such luck. I finally bolted her back together, locked the forks, threw the cover back on and decided to see what she does tomorrow. Sounds cheesy, what if my odds are better not having the green connector on the mount? It would be an indication to me it's the wiring, but very wishful thinking this could get me by without having to look like a fool when I fill her up or leave a friends house when the FI light embarrasses me with no start.
 

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Yes, intermittent problems SUCK!

One of the fundamental rules of debug is: "If a problem goes away by itself, it will certainly return, and will do so at the worst possible time..." :sbmfacepalm: Corollary: "Intermittent problems will never fail when you want them to..."

Keep at it, Orange, you'll find it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Tee,

Rode her last night, she never tripped the FI once. My theory now is that when the green connector is attached to the mount behind the steering neck it is getting a short some how. I will have to invest some time into more troubleshooting.
 
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