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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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If you can post a photo it would help. Take a look at the broken end. Is is all rough and irregular? Is there an area that is relatively smooth and another area that is rough? Is it all smooth?

In the first case, all rough, the most probable cause is over tightening. I wouldn't suspect this unless you retorqued and the bolt failed shortly thereafter.

Most commonly you will see an area where the grain of the metal is not plainly visible. It will look smoother than the rest of the broken end. This is fatigue due to under tightening. The larger the smooth area the greater the fatigue propagation. Have you been keeping up with the critical bolt torqueing per the shop manual? Do you use a clicker style torque wrench that hasn't been calibrated recently? Can you post a good close-up?
 
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there is treaded insert in frame where that bolt screws in.if insert was not tight to the motor bolt would be under more stree.insert has to fit in notch in cases.insert is also held in place with pich bolt.
other than that what Andy said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
andyauger said:
If you can post a photo it would help. Take a look at the broken end. Is is all rough and irregular? Is there an area that is relatively smooth and another area that is rough? Is it all smooth?

In the first case, all rough, the most probable cause is over tightening. I wouldn't suspect this unless you retorqued and the bolt failed shortly thereafter.

Most commonly you will see an area where the grain of the metal is not plainly visible. It will look smoother than the rest of the broken end. This is fatigue due to under tightening. The larger the smooth area the greater the fatigue propagation. Have you been keeping up with the critical bolt torqueing per the shop manual? Do you use a clicker style torque wrench that hasn't been calibrated recently? Can you post a good close-up?
If you look at the end of the broken off bolt there is a straight line where the grain is showing through the center of the bolt and on both sides it is smooth exept for 2 darker areas on the edge of the threads as shown on included pictures.  Also the last time I checked the torqe on all bolts was about 2000 miles ago with a brand new clicker torqe wrench and wich all bolts were to proper specs.




 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does anyone know where I can order this bolt and the threaded spacer and get it by friday??? Ronayers wont get it to me until it is wayyyyyyy too late I have a trackday on saturday..
 

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Interesting break. The dark areas are older cracks. What caused them is hard to say, it looks like alternate bending which would be hard to explain. The majority of the break is fatigue which would imply under tightening. What brand clicker did you buy? If it was one of the cheaper ones it could be out of calibration. It wouldn't hurt to have the calibration checked.
 

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Has this bike ever crashed in the past?

It may explain andyauger's comment that the cracks are old because of the oxidization in the break.
 

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Warrantee issue if you have the extended.

If not, definitely make a polite call to the dealer and see if they can do something for you.
It is obvious even to a layman that this has been there for a while.

It all depends on what kind of relationship you have with the dealer.
 

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blkvwgolf said:
Has anyone had a motor mount bolt brake????

I was riding today and I had one brake on my bike. The bolt that broke is item number 31 on the crank case parts microfiche. http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0349/crankcase/crankcase.cfm?man=su&groupid=11770&parent=11730

I have no clue how or why this bolt would fail as it sheared at the threaded end wile slowly pulling away from a stop sign. Any one have any ideas?
Sorry to here this my friend and hope you find one before the weekend. Keep us informed as to what Suzuki has to say. If you can't find a bolt from Suzuki, maybe you can find a temporary replacement some place else, just to get you through the track day.
Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
no warrantee and both of the stealerships her suck. They both said that they have never saw anything like that before and they urged me to take the bike to them so they can fix it for an outragous $400 some odd dollars since you would have to take the engine out. I will be fixing this myself the bolts have been ordered and should be here by wed or thurs.

I should have the motor out or as far as it needs to be removed by tomorrow I am just hoping that the bolt is broken off clean at the spacer/collar that i dont need to get in there and drill the rest of the bolt out to allow the engine to drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
TWF said:
uh.why would you need engine out??
There is a threaded flange that goes through the fram with the flange side between the motor and the frame with a clamping bolt that locks it in place.
Take a look at a second gen. bike and it is right above the chain behind the frame above the rearsets if you look from the rear to the front.

feel free to let me know any other way to get this item out. I would post a pic but I am not near a bike or picture right now.
 
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take the bolt under that one out.take 2 front cylinder bolts out and 2 rear cylinders bolts.loosen big bolt just little bit.take exhaust of rear cylinder.now motor will hang on big middle bolt.you can swing it forward enough to take insert out.
 
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blkvwgolf said:
that was pretty much what i was planning on doing... as long as the bolt isnt broken off too far in not allowing the motor to rotate.
ther is pich bolt on that insert,losen it and slide insert away from motor.
 

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Reviving this post. Just snapped mine off very similar to this after last weekends race weekend.

So if I follow the advice....loosen and remove the other mounts except the center mount then the motor will rotate just enough to remove that collar. Is there anything else I’ll have to remove and/or loosen?

I really don’t want to drop the motor.
 

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And do I need any special tools to take those off? I’ve got just about any normal tool to strip down a bike. Do I really need anything to hold down the castle bolts on the flanged head side with any special tool?
 
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