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Discussion Starter #1
So I was ridding along and I felt something hit my right leg, I looked down to see a bolt sticking half way out. Come to find out it is one of the motor mount bolts. I found a guy posting with a similar problem but my question wasn't answered.

Here is a picture of which bolt it is. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/blkvwgolf/SV650K4_Yellow_F9E02C.jpg

So here is the problem. The bolt broke off at the threads. So the threaded spacer that it fits into still has the threads of the bolt inside of it. (Sort of like a key broke off in a lock)

The spacer it fits into is part 6 on this diagram http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/3927-suzuki-2005-SV650/assemblies/127632

I can see how to loosen the spacer but since it has that shoulder on it I can remove it to replace it (because the shoulder part sits between the frame mount and the crankcase)

They couldn't have designed this so that in order to replace the the upper rear motor mount spacer and bolt I would have to drop the whole engine could they? How can I remove the spacer that has the threads broken off in it without removing the entire engine.

Here are some more pictures if they help.

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/00comm/DSC02832.jpg

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/00comm/suzuki.jpg
 

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Isn't there room for you to drill into the bolt and try to insert a bolt extractor into what's left of the bolt inside this spacer?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would have to fit it through about a 3/4 inch hole that is about 10 inches long... and somehow fit the stripper into that. Either that I somehow drill a hole into the frame on the opposite side. Neither of which seem plausible.
 

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Ok, I forgot that the bolt goes from the right side to the left side where this threaded spacer is. So there is no longer any part of the bolt still left in the engine case? Just the threaded end in the spacer? After reviewing the older posts, you may indeed need to drop the motor to access this spacer. If there is any bolt left in the casing, that would be a major complication.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no, luckily there isn't any of the bolt left in the engine casing. I can't believe they would make no way to replace this spacer other than dropping the whole engine... Has any one else ever had this problem? There must be a better way
 

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Discussion Starter #6
But ok, lets say that I do have to drop my engine, would I be able to hinge the engine down. Leave in a front support and just drop the rear of it down about 5cm. 5cm is about all I need to get that freaking thing out.
 

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Acccording to the link you provided, you could remove those bolts needed and just loosen the upper ones to be able to tilt far enough to remove the spacer. You would still need to remove the rear wheel to be able to remove the rear cyl header and maybe more of the exhaust or not. You would also need the socket to remove and tighten the nuts off the engine bolts or make your own special adapter. Looking at the 1gen frame and manual, it's the same, to reinstall the motor the spacer has to be inserted first. It would seem that this bolt was never supposed to break. Btw, did the break produce a flat surface looking at what's left of the bolt that fell out? Since I like a challenge, if the break was flat, I would buy a 12" drill bit of the appropriate size twist drill for the extractor and have a machinist make a spacer that fit into the hole in the frame on the right side with the inner diameter of the bit to act as a guide to keep the bit straight and centered. Then try to drill the hole in the remaining bolt part and have the extractor welded to a rod long enough to reach the bolt and try to extract. Either way, you have your work cut out for you. I don't see how else to do this. The space on the left side between the spacer and the outer frame doesn't seem wide enough to get a small right angle drill in there to extract.
 

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if part of the bolt is sticking out so it's inside the hollow portion of the case, you'll have to drill out it from the left side, then drop the motor and replace the threaded spacer. It's not a hard job. Just time consuming.

better yet, drill and tap the bolt from the left side with a very small bolt. then thread in a small bolt. WHen it bottoms out in your drill hole, as you tighten the small bolt it should back out the broken motor mount bolt. just make sure th esmall bolt is long enough so u can cut the head ff and push it all the way thru
 

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He stated that the remaining part of the broken bolt is only in the spacer, not the engine case. How can you drill out from the left side of the bike? The spacer is installed in a subframe coming off the main frame spar. There isn't a hole in the left main frame to line up with the hole in the spacer.

Take a look at his second photobucket pic. How are you going to use a drill or a tap from that side? If you could that would be a good solution.
 

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He stated that the remaining part of the broken bolt is only in the spacer, not the engine case. How can you drill out from the left side of the bike? The spacer is installed in a subframe coming off the main frame spar. There isn't a hole in the left main frame to line up with the hole in the spacer.

Take a look at his second photobucket pic. How are you going to use a drill or a tap from that side? If you could that would be a good solution.

ahh ok. then drop the motor
 

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Discussion Starter #11
K well I'll give a bolt extractor a try, I should be able to just get a drill extension to fit to the extractor that should fit right to left. I'll let you know how that turns out. I still think its a silly design flaw to not have access to this spacer. If this doesn't work I'll try swinging the engine down just enough but if I have to do that I'll probably be back with questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
SUCCESS! So here is how I did it.

First off I found a piece of tubing that would fit the bolt hole and would give me a guide so that I could drill into the broken bolt strait. I was worried about hitting it at an angle considering my bit had to be 12" long



With that my drill bit slid into the "guide" (plastic tube) That bolt was hard as hell I'm glad I went with a very HQ bit


For extraction I found a bolt extractor with a hex-head end (rather than the square head kind) so that I could us my 1/4" drive socket to pull it out. I had to connect 2 extensions to the socket for the length and I had to grind down the extensions and the socket to make them fit into the hole.

I used a belt sander and attached the bits to a drill so that I could spin them and get an even grind. It was tricky to get them ground down enough to fit the whole without grinding them away completely. You can see how close it was.







I made sure to secure the bolt extractor to the socket so that it wouldn't come out way back in there, a bit of tape did the trick but just barely.





After that it was pretty easy to get the broken parts out. I had let them soak in oil for about 2 days to make sure that it would be easy



Here is a picture of the threads that broke off along with the bolt. The threads are what was stuck way back in the spacer

 

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Oh man, that is great! You must have been so happy when that sucker started turning. :rock:

Edit: I wonder why that bolt broke in the first place. Maybe check all the other engine mounts to be sure they're tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Someone recently messaged me for this info, the post is in the graveyard but still usefull i think
 

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What drill size did you use? And what was the spec for the bolt remover? I’ve got the same issue, also would you be able to tell me how did you add the oil to soak? Much appreciated.
 
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