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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i bought a naked 1g sv650 a while back, previous owner replaced the OEM brakelines with stainless steel ones. Very nice I like

The only problem I'm having is that it takes a bit for the brake to hook on. The lever needs about 3-4 cm (1,1 - 1,5 inch) of travel before it'll hook. I don't know if that's normal or not? I feel like it shouldn't be like that but whenever it hooks it hooks quite nice, not spongy at all and it does take quite a bit of force to pull the lever against the handle... Like pulling on a very stiff spring...

I've bled the brakes already. Pretty sure there's no air inside...

I'm thinking about replacing the brake cilinder but I'm not too sure if that'll fix my problem.

I'd like to hear your thoughts
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It sounds like you bled the calipers, but did you also bleed the master cylinder too?
I bled the brakes from the caliper nippels, yes. Never heard of bleeding the master cylinder? Normally I'd work on cars so that might cause some confusion.
Looked it up, but I can't find something other then bleeding from your calipers? Would you care to elaborate?


could be a rebuild needed. could be a shitty lever. master rebuld is easy:
Thanks for the video, (even though I've seen it already, lol) Might just get a rebuild set, just to be sure.
 

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I bled the brakes from the caliper nippels, yes. Never heard of bleeding the master cylinder? Normally I'd work on cars so that might cause some confusion.
Looked it up, but I can't find something other then bleeding from your calipers? Would you care to elaborate?
you just crack the banjo bolt at the master. a bit messy, but that's a high-spot in the system where air can get trapped.
or they sell banjo bolts with bleeder nipples on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
you just crack the banjo bolt at the master. a bit messy, but that's a high-spot in the system where air can get trapped.
or they sell banjo bolts with bleeder nipples on them.
That's new for me, It does makes sense though. Since the previous owner chose to mount both lines onto the brake cylinder (with a double banjo bolt ofcourse) I'll just crack it open a bit.. three / four pumps with re-tightening after a pump should to the trick I'd think?
 

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And when all done best you can do.
Pull the brake on and wrap a shoelace around it many times holding it on overnight.
Don't understand how it works but it does get that last bit of air out.
 

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I would also check to be sure your pads are free to slide on the pins. If they're sticking, they can act just like you have air in the lines, but it's really just the fact that they are not resting against the rotors.
 

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And when all done best you can do.
Pull the brake on and wrap a shoelace around it many times holding it on overnight.
Don't understand how it works but it does get that last bit of air out.
When you tie the brake lever on with pressure overnight it compresses any air that might be in the system down to tiny little bubbles which then can make their way up the lines and out into the master cylinder. It's weird but sometimes air will just collect in a pocket along the line or fitting where you'd not think it possible...but it is. Before you release the lever the next day try lightly tapping on the entire system (sounds crazy...but trust me it works) with a plastic mallet starting at the calipers then working your way up the lines to the master cylinder. You're trying to knock any lingering air loose so it will rise to the top. Be sure to have the wheel turned so the left caliper is at the lowest spot and even wiggle the bike back and forth side to side giving those pesky lingering bubbles every chance to escape. When you release the lever watch in the reservoir for bubbles as you then gently work the brake lever on and off. Sometimes you'll see that stray bubble that was causing your soft lever and it's a good feeling. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks to everyone for replying. I've got back to it today but I don't trust the master cylinder since I just noticed that the distance and force of the lever isn't consistent. So I'll be swapping that one out soon after which I'll bleed the brakes the way described in this topic.

I'll let you know if it worked out or not.

Just one question left, to be sure
Do I mount the lid of the reservoir? I don't think it matters, does it?
 
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