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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is for a DRZ not an SV but this forum has some knowledgeable people that maybe can help me.

I have changed fluid, replaced the front brake line with a stainless braided line, bled the brakes 3 separate times, and changed my brake pads. My brakes still don't grab hard enough. My brake lever is firm and feels like it should grab hard but when I brake aggressively, I get lever to bar. I had an issue with air in the lines because of how arched the DRZ brake line is, but I have solved that problem. Now I am thinking that my disc is too smooth and isn't creating enough friction, is there a way to get a rotor cross hatched or can I take my front wheel off and sand the disc myself?
 

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Perhaps the new pads are not yet bedded in, or have different friction characteristics to what you're used to. Some pads need some heat in them before they bite.
 

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If the lever is going to the bar, you've still got air in the system.
Going to have to cure that before worrying the pads or disks.
Tapping the lines from bottom to top for a while over a few hours will get the bubbles to migrate up.
Apply the handle end of a running sawsall might help, or borrow the sig. others' Hitachi.
Maybe slightly cracking the banjo at the master while under pressure.
 

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If the lever is going to the bar, you've still got air in the system.
Going to have to cure that before worrying the pads or disks.
Tapping the lines from bottom to top for a while over a few hours will get the bubbles to migrate up.
Apply the handle end of a running sawsall might help, or borrow the sig. others' Hitachi.
Maybe slightly cracking the banjo at the master while under pressure.
Don't think I didn't catch that. :naughty:
 

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Scotch-brite the crap out of the rotor until it is as clean as you can get it. Then bed the new pads in aggressively. With a light and (sorry) relatively slowish bike like the DR you'll need multiple 60-20mph hard applications to get the disc and pads hot enough to bed properly. You'll feel them getting stronger as you do it.....and I'd do a couple extra once it is stopping as hard as you feel like it should. Then DON'T stop for a while! Ride around and let that puppy cool off before you stop. Should be fine afterwards.
 

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This is for a DRZ not an SV but this forum has some knowledgeable people that maybe can help me.

I have changed fluid, replaced the front brake line with a stainless braided line, bled the brakes 3 separate times, and changed my brake pads. My brakes still don't grab hard enough. My brake lever is firm and feels like it should grab hard but when I brake aggressively, I get lever to bar. I had an issue with air in the lines because of how arched the DRZ brake line is, but I have solved that problem. Now I am thinking that my disc is too smooth and isn't creating enough friction, is there a way to get a rotor cross hatched or can I take my front wheel off and sand the disc myself?
Alternate side to side when bleeding. People think they can bleed one side and then the other but it works better if you alternate, at least for me.

Also make sure that you close the bleeder screw BEFORE the lever bottoms out, otherwise you let a tiny amount of air in.

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Then when you think you have them fully bled. Use a rubber band or some string to hold the brake lever completely compressed, overnight...You'll be surprised.
 

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If the lever is going to the bar, you've still got air in the system.
Going to have to cure that before worrying the pads or disks.
Tapping the lines from bottom to top for a while over a few hours will get the bubbles to migrate up.
Apply the handle end of a running sawsall might help, or borrow the sig. others' Hitachi.
Maybe slightly cracking the banjo at the master while under pressure.


Nice.

I've had to do this more than once on more than one motorcycle to get a stubborn bubble out.
 

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If you can take the lever to the bar, you've still got air in your system (assuming your brake lever is adjusted properly, of course).

My solution for EASILY bleeding brake uses a shop-vac, a semi-large jar, and a bit of tubing. Here is a simple schematic:



And here is a video of it in use when bleeding the brakes on my Trailblazer last year:



It's easy to build (just make sure you use some sort of tape for sealing any leaks) and works extremely well. I have a purpose-built hand pump brake bleeder, but it just collects dust on my shelf since I built this thing. Just hook it up, turn it on, and crack the bleeder valve. Then sit back and let it do its job. Just make sure to keep the reservoir topped off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
^^^^^ This is a great idea.

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