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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put on some SS lines last night and I cant seem to get them bled correctly. I have put some teflon tape around the threads that go into the caliper, made sure all banjos are secure and crush washers are on both sides of all banjos, and bled as normal.

-crack nipple
-squeeze and hold lever
-tighten nipple
-release lever

- went through 2 reservoirs on each side

No matter how much I do this there is still a tiny cloud of air bubbles that comes through. Any suggestions? After I took the bike out for a spin the brake lever would feel firm 80% of the time then randomly loose all feeling and firmness and the lever would pull all the way to grips. Its killin me and could actually kill me if not remedied. Please help!
 

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I had a rear brake that was a pita like this. Even with speedbleeders it was still an air trapped in the lines feel. Put on my MityVac and in a couple of minutes wooola great feeling rear brake.

 

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maybe your calipers need rebuilding, or your master cylinder.

you could try using a big syringe with fluid, attached to the caliper with tubing and forcing the brake fluid back up toward the resovior
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
maybe your calipers need rebuilding, or your master cylinder.

you could try using a big syringe with fluid, attached to the caliper with tubing and forcing the brake fluid back up toward the resovior
Oh, in addition I have cleaned my pistons, changed rubber seals, and cleaned inside of calipers. I will have to try the syringe idea. How does one go about rebuilding the master?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you lines coming off a double banjo or a single that's daisy chained to the other caliper?
Double banjo. I have two seperate lines that run from each caliper to the master.
 

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Syringe will be the easiest, takes less than 5 mins compared to 40 mins hand bleeding dry lines.

Put a rag around the double banjo at the master, squeeze the lever with one hand, and then crack the banjo bolt slightly. Let the lever touch the grip, tighten banjo, pump lever.

Do this a few times to bleed the master.

Using a syringe prevent having to bleed the master as well, which is why I recommend that especially if bleeding dry lines.
 

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Very easy to get fluid over the gauges and plastic like that, so be very careful and hit anything with brake cleaner right after if it does.
 

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I put on some SS lines last night and I cant seem to get them bled correctly. I have put some teflon tape around the threads that go into the caliper, made sure all banjos are secure and crush washers are on both sides of all banjos, and bled as normal.

-crack nipple
-squeeze and hold lever
-tighten nipple
-release lever

- went through 2 reservoirs on each side

No matter how much I do this there is still a tiny cloud of air bubbles that comes through. Any suggestions? After I took the bike out for a spin the brake lever would feel firm 80% of the time then randomly loose all feeling and firmness and the lever would pull all the way to grips. Its killin me and could actually kill me if not remedied. Please help!
Wrong sequence:

1. Squeeze lever 3x then hold
2. Crack nipple open then close. (lever should go to bar)
3. Repeat till no more bubbles.

Start at calipers, then master cylinder. You should have a solid Beale lever if not then check brake rotors. If they are warped they will push the pass apart then you will have the lever hit the bar. Get the front off the ground and give that front tire a spin and check for warped rotors. Even if it's a little then the rotors are compromised.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great advice guys. Will be giving it a go tomorrow and will update thread. Thanks :eek:ccasion14:
 

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This is a common problem when swapping out lines. As said, mighty vac or syringe will solve it.

It is caused by standing air bubbles. Because flow from the master is insufficient, brake fluid ends up trickling down half the inside wall of the brake line while air travels back up the other half (think of pouring a thimble of fluid down a 1/2" pipe, once every couple seconds... it will never fill up). Mighty vac will pull both fluid and air down fast enough to evacuate completely, or, syringe will simply push it up and out from the bottom up. You can go through a gallon of fluid with simple pump and crack and get no where. This only happens when the line are mostly empty.
 

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I had this issue recently, it is a pita. You have to keep bleeding over and over, it feels like you aren't making progress but it will happen. I promise.

One thing I did differently and not sure how much this helped, but I would jiggle and squeeze the rubber line coming out of the brake reservoir into the MC(on the fronts) a ton of air came back up doing this. IMO, it helped.

Also, check the condition of your diaphrams, mine were completely disfigured. I was able to shape them close to original again, I did order replacements though for peace of mind.
 

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I had this issue recently, it is a pita. You have to keep bleeding over and over, it feels like you aren't making progress but it will happen. I promise.

One thing I did differently and not sure how much this helped, but I would jiggle and squeeze the rubber line coming out of the brake reservoir into the MC(on the fronts) a ton of air came back up doing this. IMO, it helped.

Also, check the condition of your diaphrams, mine were completely disfigured. I was able to shape them close to original again, I did order replacements though for peace of mind.
Also tapping on the lines and brake parts with a wooden pencil or something actually helps too. You would be amazed at how much air gets knocked loose when you tap on it.
 

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Also tapping on the lines and brake parts with a wooden pencil or something actually helps too. You would be amazed at how much air gets knocked loose when you tap on it.
That's right forgot about this, it was recommended to tap the calipers with a rubber mallet. I didn't have one handy so I used the grip side of a screw driver and gently tapped them. A tennis shoe would work too.
 

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The tapping advice would have been useful when i put on my SS lines :lmao:
When i was hand-bleeding dry lines, it took forever just to get any kind of resistance at the lever. When it finally did, a few more bleed cycles (squeeze lever, open nipple, close nipple, release lever) got the rest of the air out

You swear you're doing something wrong because nothing happens for a while ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yeah i think ill pass on that. lol. tried bleeding th correct way--

- pump lever 3x, then hold
- crack nipple
- Close nipple
- release lever

This reduced the amount of bubbles greatly, but I am still getting some. Im about to attempt the MC bleed idea where you throw a rag over double banjo, crack banjo bolt, pull lever to grip, tighten banjo bolt, pump lever. Hopefully that finishes them off
 

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HOLD ON, don't you have a bleeder nipple on the master? If not then crach that bolt very little. To many areas to allow air to be sucked back in. Make sure you tighten it back and crush those washers before letting go of that lever.
 

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I just remembered this and ridersdiscount carries a Motion Pro Mini Brake Bleeder. Nice little tool. Makes it quick and easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am not seeing a bleeder nipple for the master. I just have the stock sv master and as far as i know they dont have a bleeder nipple. Please correct me if im wrong
 
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